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I have recently installed a pre-70s M20 in my 73 coupe, and set up the linkage with the short-throw Transmission Lever Rod attachments. The Reverse Transmission Lever has no short-throw 2nd/lower hole like the 1-2 and 3-4 Transmission Levers, and don't really have to.
But I am finding I have to jam the Shifter into reverse really hard forward in order to release the Steering Wheel/Ignition Key Lock. I may solve this problem by perhaps lengthening the Reverse Shift Lever Rod by one Lock Nut turn without creating a Neutral Position problem, but want some input from some of you M20 Pros first. Or, has anyone here drilled a Short-Throw hole in the Tranny's Reverse Lever, if for anything consistency in Shift Pattern travel? Rather drastic, but would do the job.
Thanks for any comments.
Have you considered disabling it? It was the first thing to go on my 72' when installing the Hurst shifter.......I hate that damn thing......
Jebby
Yes, I'm hating it too. But it does somewhat work as an anti-theft deterrent and this is San Diego California.
Besides, it's a brand new cable I just paid for Jeb.
I have the short throw setup on my 69 and no modifications were required for the reverse lever. Are you sure the cable doesn't have it's own adjustment procedure?
Looked it up, the adjustment is in the engine compartment at the firewall bracket.
Looked it up, the adjustment is in the engine compartment at the firewall bracket.
Sure will Mel. That would solve quite a few problems.
Another thing I just noticed in driving it around the block, is.the fine line between finding 1st gear and Reverse gear. Just something I'll have to get used to huh.
Thanks much.
'68 and older Muncie uses different levers. Did you get the right ones for the tranny?
Oooo, good question. I bought the shifter with Rods, complete with Levers and all hardware attached, without knowing there was a difference.
Thanks. Will research it.
The '68 and older Muncie shift levers are retained with a nut. The '69 and up Muncie uses a bolt to retain the shift levers. The obround holes in the levers are not the same size new style vs old style so you need the right levers for the year of the transmission. One way will not go together at all and the other way they will go together but be rather loose.
The '68 and older Muncie shift levers are retained with a nut. The '69 and up Muncie uses a bolt to retain the shift levers. The obround holes in the levers are not the same size new style vs old style so you need the right levers for the year of the transmission. One way will not go together at all and the other way they will go together but be rather loose.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Pretty sure I lucked out and have the right Shifter with the right Transmission. Tell me if I'm wrong.
Hey, would have been a great time then to have inserted the Linkage Locating Gauge and adjust Rod lengths.
Pretty sure I lucked out and have the right Shifter with the right Transmission. Tell me if I'm wrong.
Hey, would have been a great time then to have inserted the Linkage Locating Gauge and adjust Rod lengths.
Steve
Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
The levers are retained with a nut so the Muncie is the earlier '68 and older design. If they fit tight on the shafts, you have the right levers for the transmission.
Thanks much for that reminder! I have that paper somewhere in this desktop, but I don't know where. Oh well, another trip down on my back.
On another note, a while back I had a question about where the Booted End of the Shift Lock Cable goes: On the Top end or on the Bottom end. After I installed it, consensus was I got it wrong. Belongs on the bottom at the Tranny's Lever end. Here's what happens when the Boot end is on top.
Crushes a bit, limiting the Column Lock Lever's Down Travel.
Boot with Reverse Selected.
It could go up a little bit farther, allowing the Key to turn to the IgnitionKey Remove position a little easier. Having to jam the Shifter forward in Reverse for Key removal now.