OK. That's not good. Cut the oil filter open and see what else is in there. If you're lucky that might be just a piece of swarf left over from the machining process that did not get removed when the block was cleaned prior to assembly.

 

I have a champs 8 qt on mine, dart pro 1's with 215 runners, to a team g single plane intake. had a performer intake on it before and the intake ports and the head ports were way off, I was using oil, not anymore

 

I am not sure what you are suggesting about my engine. The Performer Intake was port matched to the head. I have pictures. And I don't understand how a mismatch, if there was, would cause oil consumption.

 

I have been searching forums, via Google, about this cracking / popping noise with heater on...and one possible issue may be that the heater shutoff valve is failing / cycling....or I have a vacuum problem. If at idle, when the vacuum is highest, which is when I hear the noise, the shutoff valve is intermittently failing and cycling open and closing, it would possibly open, allowing coolant to flow, and then suddenly failing, and closing, which would create a pulse in the system......and the cracking noise is the sudden pulse opening or closing the thermostat, banging the seat and making the noise. The sound definitely comes from the thermostat housing. Its an NOS factory Non-AC coolant heater shutoff valve I found.

 

coolant didn't puke shrapnel into you pan. Think of shrapnel & large oil leak as the forest; while coolant and everything else are just trees.
I've seen fine-wire baffling in breather caps and in vented oil-fill caps. I'd start to narrow down source by measuring wires' OD.
Believe or not; some shrapnel did go through the pump and beyond the filter. Rear cam journal gets oil first--followed by rear main--followed by rod 8, then 7.
No matter how roughly you got pooched, what's done is done; it's All on you now to figure it out & remedy it. G'luck !

 

Yes, I have a lot to investigate. And I have TWO problems at least. One of them is this coolant loss / snapping noise issue. The other is oil leak. And, now trying to determine where this metal is from. Its clearly a shaving....the cross section is not round, its more flat, like a piece machined. It's not a piece of wire. And its brittle and of course magnetic, so steel. Incidentally, over the course of the 8000 miles, I did three oil changes, so this is the fourth time I pulled the drain plug,....and first to find metal of any significance.

The engine ran fantastic, with lots of power, good idle, fantastic throttle response, and never over 180 degrees indicated. With my no choke, mechanical double pumper, it started easily.

 

Install a manual shutoff in the heater hose for $20?
Worked awesome in my 66'.......
The 72' has the heater capped off.......never use it here anyway.....but you are in PA, sooooo.......

Jebby

 

Yes, I am certainly going to try that. I drove the car a couple years without heat hooked up, and last year was first year. It did lengthen driving season. But I could live without it.

 

My oversight ... to clarify, above is oil scheme for OE Block. Seems yours is a Dart and has "priority main" oiling. If so, Rear Main gets oil first; followed by rear cam journal.

 

Another issue I dislike is all the valve train noise these Comp Cams Pro-Magnum full roller rockers make......its the sewing machine sound, but I find it annoying. Would I be crazy to replace these with some good long slot stamped steel non roller rocker arms? What would I be giving up, and what issues do I need to consider, like ??? open spring pressures? I really don't know. Howards sells some 1.6 ratio rockers, for the 7/16 inch studs I have.

 

are they solids?
I don't understand unless they are solids?

 

Vast majority of rocker friction is in the fulcrum/trunnion (Not tip) ... full-roller trunnion runs with much less friction and heat that a ball-pivot (stamped) ...or in the case of comp magnum roller tips, they are cast steel but have a ball-pivot.
Elgin Black Ice (cryo) stamped rockers. Why bother w/ all that motor if, it seems, you won't use it?

 

If you are referring to the lifters, no they are GM hydraulic roller lifter, post 86, factory roller style. The Dart SHP block accomodates late model factory rollers, with dog-bone and spider retainers.. Problem is all the chatter going on, which seems to me to be the Comp Cams Pro Magnum full roller rocker arms. The noise seems to come from the chatter created by the side play in the axles. I have searched all internet car forums, and apparently its pretty normal that full roller rockers have a chatter...."a sewing machine sound". I prefer a quiet valve train Mine were adjusted to half turn preload. If there was a way to quiet them, I would like to know.

 

Well.....its a little late for the "why bother". I do really hate to give up on the roller rocker arms, as they obviously are the best in every way......except the noise. My entire goal with this engine was to get big block torque, with flat torque curve, starting low. I achieved that very well. Its not time to start redesigning the engine nor do I want this thread to become a discussion on things already done. I was asking if a good set of long slot stamped 1.6 ratio rocker arms would significantly hurt my power, in particular, torque. Another thing that is in play is the cam, its a Mike Jones cam, and as quoted by Mike,......"The peak acceleration on my cam is .000357" at the lifter, and .000535" at the valve. This is about as aggressive as you want to go with a hydr roller". I am guessing that this may also be a part of what makes the noise......Also, my AFR heads have open spring pressure of 450 lbs.....do I not need strong rocker arms? I really don't know what I am talking about.....I admit that.

 

(Edited)
Okay, I have had enough of your BS. Reported to moderators. Your opinion is all it is. And I am not interested in it. Go find someone else to pick on who cares. Everything you stated is either incorrect or useless information.

 

Close to review habitual conflict.

——

Re-open thread.

Members, this is the second time I’ve had to waste time in this thread cleaning up pissing matches between a few of you, some of which that do not have the luxury of getting more sanctions for participating in conflicts. If I do it again, the vacations will end in a year later than 2021. Stop it or find another thread.

 

Now.....can we get back to useful technical input?

 

Well...the saga continues, and got worse. In regards to the valve train noise I was concerned about, I contacted Mike Jones, who spec'd and provided the cam, and asked him about what possible items would be causing the valve train noise. He asked me two questions......what hydraulic lifters are installed, and what is valve spring pressures. The hydraulic roller lifters are Summit HT-214 lifters, that the builder provided, and suggested were more than likely stock GM SBC roller rockers in a Summit box. They are advertised as Made In USA......but its unknown to me what they really are. I trusted him that these would be adequate.

Secondly, the springs are the springs that AFR puts in their AFR 195 Race heads.....which is what I bought......AFR 195 Race heads...not street heads. So I go onto the AFR website and find out that the springs installed are 155 on the seat / 458 lbs open springt pressure. Sent that information to Mike Jones, and he responded "That's too much spring pressure for stock lifters.". He suggested some PAC beehive springs which have much lower spring pressures, and GM LS7 factory lifters, .

SO,....what I have is valve springs made for a race engine cam, that is NOT the proper spring pressure, in fact way too high, for the lifters I have. Mike Jones speculates its possible that the heavy springs are basically pumping down the lifters, and possibly the cause of the clatter. Possibly. Since I trust what Mike Jones is saying, I now have to spend $$$ to replace springs and lifters. And I am not doing it, so labor as well. IN the end, it fixes THAT potential problem, and I hope I have not damaged anything else as a result. Mike did say that the noise could STILL be the Comp Cams Pro Magnum rollers, and he is not promising it will be quiet, at least not as quiet as stock. I could handle the "sewing machine" noise, I guess, but would just prefer it to be quiet.

I am pulling the motor and shipping it to someone who will fix all of these issues properly. I am totally frustrated and the entire engine needs looked at. I have NEVER claimed I know what I am talking about in building this engine, that is why I paid someone else to do it. I have trusted many people on this forum, and the engine builder, to make decisions. I spent alot of money on high quality components, but that's not all that counts. I am screwed. It will take money now, and who knows how long, till I have a properly built engine back in the car.

 

I do hope this turns out for the best now. I've just bought the same heads with the same spring package, can you share the specs of the PAC springs also ? (not that I will, or can , use the same lifters. I must use expensive link-bar). IMHO is that you can put alot of faith into Jones' word !

 

I cut and pasted Mike Jones email response below......

That's too much spring pressure for stock lifters.

You can keep your springs, and change to The Johnson # 2110R lifters
https://johnsonlifters.com/Products/...51-application

Or, what I suggest is to go with the GM LS7 lifters #GM 12499225,
and PAC bee-hive springs # PAC-1218X
https://www.racingsprings.com/index....ring-3903.html