When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi everyone, this is my first post on this forum. I also would like to mention, I bought a 1977 Corvette close to 3 months ago. I love the look of the curves and body lines of the C3 Corvette, which influenced me to buy one. In doing so, I bought this C3 in great mechanical shape, but I bought it with the interior all taken apart. I am now in the process of fabricating and making a brand new interior with custom fabrications. Although I am good at molding. I do not know much about the ignitions and how the car starts. Which is why I am here.
So I am here to ask what does it take to simply wire a basic push start system to turn the car on. I want to still be able to use my key to turn the power on. I just want the button to ignite the ignition and turn the car on. Here is a perfect example, of literally what I want to do:
All in all, I just need to know which color wire needs to be cut only to ignite the ignition of the car to turn it on and if there is something more to do I need to know, but the video I attached is basically what I want. I want the power to turn on from the key still, but the ignition via push to start. If someone can help me that would be great. I don't know which color wires need to be cut and attached to new push to start system.
There are several ways to accomplish what you’re looking at.
Here is how I have mine setup, a very simple setup.
There is a small signal wire attached to one of the small posts on the starter solenoid. On my 75, this is a purple wire.
You could lift that lead off that post, wrap it in electrical tape and zip tie it off to the side, in case you want to go back to the original setup.
then you just need to route a wire from positive of the battery to one terminal of the push button, connect the other terminal of the push button to previous mentioned small post of the starter.
when you depress the push button, 12 volts will be applied to the starter solenoid and the starter will engage and turn. However, the car will not fire off unless the key is in the ignition and the ignition is rotated to the “run” position. With the IGN not in the run position, the distributor will not have power and the car will not fire off. I would include a fuse in series with the 12v supply, for safety reasons.
this setup I just described does bypass the neutral safety switch, if you desire you can wire that in series with the 12 volts supply to the push button.
Ok awesome, that helps me a lot. So essentially all I do is, take the lead off the small post of the starter. Your color is purple. Rewire a new wire to the starter from the push button. Then add a wire from the push button to the positive 12 volt of battery and in between add a fuse for safety. Those are the two things to do to get push to start working along with having the key in the "run" position.
In doing what you mentioned it seems that I don't cut or touch anything on the wiring harness right above the steering column which seems to be the stock way to turn the car on via the key. I don't touch anything on that harness? All I do is take the wire of the starter, tape it up and zip-tie it somewhere else, then add a new wire from the push to start to the started. And then aded a wire for the push to start from the battery? Thats it?
In order to add the neutral safety switch, how do I incorporate it with the push to start button?
In doing what you mentioned it seems that I don't cut or touch anything on the wiring harness right above the steering column which seems to be the stock way to turn the car on via the key. I don't touch anything on that harness? All I do is take the wire of the starter, tape it up and zip-tie it somewhere else, then add a new wire from the push to start to the started. And then aded a wire for the push to start from the battery? Thats it?
In order to add the neutral safety switch, how do I incorporate it with the push to start button?
Correct, you do not have to touch anything on the ignition circuitry if you don’t want to. One of the outputs of that ignition switch on top on the steering column is that purple “S” wire. It’s much easier to disconnect that wire at the starter, in my opinion, and just make your own starting signal. You COULD splice a 12v supply via push button at the output of the ignition switch (that same wire) but it is difficult to get to and hard to see anything(the ignition switch is where it is to deter theft/hot wiring) the push button would make that purple wire hot(12volts) and the car would turn over and start(if the ignition was in run) that is another viable way to do this. Just harder in my opinion.
the neutral safety switch is located under the center console, at the base of the shifter. In park or neutral is a complete circuit, in drive or reverse it is an open. Routing your signal wire though those contacts would give you the feature.
Also, my opinion, that’s a lot of work when you could just not start the car in gear. I do not have my start switch routed through the neutral safety switch, and I have never accidentally started it in gear throughout 8 years of starting it.
Purple/white stripe wire is HOT in start position
Solid Purple is the closed side of the clutch start / neutral safety switch.
Push button would be wired in the solid purple circuit
I'd go to the ignition switch- so you can keep the neutral safety switch operative- and key starting as well
There are two ignitions wires-
+12V wire for ACC and ignition but not on in start (radio/wipers )
+12V wire for ignition and start but not on in ACC (gauges)
The switch for the starter pulls a good amount of current- I would highly recommend a relay to control
I'd go to the ignition switch- so you can keep the neutral safety switch operative- and key starting as well
There are two ignitions wires-
+12V wire for ACC and ignition but not on in start (radio/wipers )
+12V wire for ignition and start but not on in ACC (gauges)
The switch for the starter pulls a good amount of current- I would highly recommend a relay to control
Richard,
On a early build 77 from ignition Start position, purple with white stripe.
A Late build 77 from ignition Start position is Yellow wire.
From a Late 77 Dash Harness...
Connector for Clutch Start/Neutral Safety Switch & Backup light Connectors
I like the relay idea, OP push button rated for what load?
Correct, you do not have to touch anything on the ignition circuitry if you don’t want to. One of the outputs of that ignition switch on top on the steering column is that purple “S” wire. It’s much easier to disconnect that wire at the starter, in my opinion, and just make your own starting signal. You COULD splice a 12v supply via push button at the output of the ignition switch (that same wire) but it is difficult to get to and hard to see anything(the ignition switch is where it is to deter theft/hot wiring) the push button would make that purple wire hot(12volts) and the car would turn over and start(if the ignition was in run) that is another viable way to do this. Just harder in my opinion.
the neutral safety switch is located under the center console, at the base of the shifter. In park or neutral is a complete circuit, in drive or reverse it is an open. Routing your signal wire though those contacts would give you the feature.
Also, my opinion, that’s a lot of work when you could just not start the car in gear. I do not have my start switch routed through the neutral safety switch, and I have never accidentally started it in gear throughout 8 years of starting it.
Awesome, thank you for clarifying all this to me. It seems like it really isn't as hard as I thought it would be. If I have any more questions I will come back here and ask!
I'd go to the ignition switch- so you can keep the neutral safety switch operative- and key starting as well
There are two ignitions wires-
+12V wire for ACC and ignition but not on in start (radio/wipers )
+12V wire for ignition and start but not on in ACC (gauges)
The switch for the starter pulls a good amount of current- I would highly recommend a relay to control
Oh awesome, ok so you are essentially recommending I cut into the wiring harness to keep the neutral safety working? If I just went straight from the starter solenoid to the push to start button, how would I loose the neutral safety feature?
Looks like you got a couple great ways to go with the push button start. Please post pictures of your progress with you custom interior!
I will, I am building a custom fiberglass center console that will house my push to start, floating head unit, usb charging ports, and new round air vents etc.. The electrical is a bit difficult. I am also installing new dakota digital gauges with the vhx control box that is going to be complicated to wire. I will be posting here in order to figure out certain things, for example which turn on switch wire I can use in order power on and off for my head unit, and amps, and dsp.
I'd go to the ignition switch- so you can keep the neutral safety switch operative- and key starting as well
There are two ignitions wires-
+12V wire for ACC and ignition but not on in start (radio/wipers )
+12V wire for ignition and start but not on in ACC (gauges)
The switch for the starter pulls a good amount of current- I would highly recommend a relay to control
I have a question for Richard,
If you wire the the momentary push button to coil of the relay through from the purple ignition switch wire, does the ignition switch itself need to be in the START position to feed power to the momentary push button?
If you cut the purple wire and put the switch in-between - yes. You should connect your push button switch between the pink and purple wires - that way you can use the push button or the key to start it. I do not think you need a relay as long as your push button is rated for a few amps - the starter solenoid does not draw that much current.
I respectfully disagree with the above on the solenoid current draw.
When the ignition switch Or in this case the momentary push button is selected current passes through the Neutral Safety switch and then to the "S" terminal at solenoid.
Then current flows through the Pull-In & Hold-In winding's engaging drive shiftier.
Current also flows through the Pull-In winding's causing the starter motor to rotate slowly to insure proper meshing of gear teeth, this is when the extra load happens.
I am having the hardest time taking this panel off to reach the ignition puller. Does anyone know how to take this off? On the bottom side of it is a lever it seems, but the person I bought it from either broke it themselves or someone else broke it. Does anyone know how to take it off? I have spent a day and a half trying to take it off.
I'd go to the ignition switch- so you can keep the neutral safety switch operative- and key starting as well
There are two ignitions wires-
+12V wire for ACC and ignition but not on in start (radio/wipers )
+12V wire for ignition and start but not on in ACC (gauges)
The switch for the starter pulls a good amount of current- I would highly recommend a relay to control
1977 C3 Push to Start Help
