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I would like to know opinions on the 355 blueprint engine if any of you guys had that installed in your corvette. I had mine installed 2 years ago in my 1980, stock rear gears and a 200r4 tranny i am not impressed with the performance, as a matter of fact i think my wifes toyota avalon would beat it in a quater mile race.
It looks like Blueprint rates their engine’s horsepower as “gross” not “net.” So once you put accessories on them and recalculate horsepower based on SAE Net calculations, the number will be lower. This is based on several YouTube videos I’ve seen where people have put their cars on a chassis dyno and the wheel horsepower loss was more than the typical 15-20%.
OP, have you done any tuning on your carb and ignition ? Stock rear gears and an overdrive trans likely produces a very low cruise RPM.
Do you have a stock intake and exhaust manifolds/exhaust system ?
The specs on the engine look decent if it’s tuned properly. I agree on the gears, I went 3.70 with a 700r4. But that engine should pull pretty well from about 2000 rpm.
I agree with all above about the gears. That engine should move your car pretty good with proper gearing. Put in some deeper gears and retune and you will be surprised with it.
You've had the engine for two years, time to upgrade. If you came into my shop I would tell you to do some basics. Cam and Kit. Gears (OEM is 3.55) and torque converter. Those three would give you the best bang for your bucks. They would also improve the seat of the pants dyno.
If your car is a late production 1980 car, then you may have 2.87 gears that were used in the 81 and 82 cars.
Last edited by Gunfighter13; Dec 24, 2021 at 10:11 AM.
IMO this intake runner is too big for this engine and CR. It's gonna make it a soggy bottomed car. 180 cc is where it needs to be.
Also don't like this cam. 114 LSA is not going to be as snappy as a 110 or better yet a 108. Duration should be ok would want a bit lower on a 108. Valve lift is low. It's a roller cam make it lift those valves. You could go to a 1.6 RR to get more lift. I am assuming that the specs listed are valve lift with a 1.5 RR. Go to 1.6 RR (sssuming the heads allow for over .500 lift) and get .528 on the intake side. I would want lower duration for that if you're anywhere much above sea level with that intake runner volume.
Plenty of other things could be wrong in just the tuning as well. Timing and carb are CRITICAL to performance, as is the intake and exhaust. Does it have an intake that draws in cold air or just under hood air?
This 355 make over 350 ft/lbs. torque at 2500 RPM......this will pull a 3500lb. Vette out of the hole well regardless of gear......
I put this exact engine in a 5100lb. 1990 K5 Blazer with 3.73 gears and 35 inch tire a Sniper EFI and it ran very well.....like a 5.3l LS Pickup/Tahoe.....
It should smoulder the tires out of the hole and pull well......it should run 13's.....
You have some tuning to do......it is not the fault of the engine.....they build hundreds of these.......
I also agree that the carb is too big. The engine is probably running rich and a 750cfm double pumper will be difficult to tune for street driving with an automatic and stock rear gear.
Most of GM's 350 engines had 700ish to 850 4 barrel carbs.
And tuning is based on how much air your motor can ingest , not the carbs maximum allowed volume. So if you have a 750 and want to save a few bucks by using it. You will be fine.