Got a pretty big gap here. Granted the manifold isn't torqued down yet and the Fel-Pro 1266 is a thick gasket and can compress a little too. But I feel just silicon and no rubber seal in there just isn't right.


If you guys do use 'em, which do you prefer; ones on the Left or on the Right?

Thanks.
Steve

 

I vote for the ones on the right.

 

I vote for neither and that gap will be half that size once the manifold is torqued down. I see no issues here other than don’t use the end seals.

 

1/4 inch bead of "the right stuff" Silicone. No rubber seals.
Instructions that come with Edlebrock intake manifolds state do not use them.

 

You'd be right Fact if when torqued and reduced to half, the gap may not need a seal. But being a Doubting Thomas, I may torque it down dry and see.
When I had it together last, I did no pre-torque measurement of the gap. I used the seals on the right, black RTV on them, even used the thinner blue PrintoSeal manifold gaskets, and had no leaks. Blind Luck, evidently.
I was just taken back at this large gap and wanted some ideas.

Thanks much.
Steve

 

The block gets decked, the heads get machined, different cylinder gaskets, different manifold gaskets and the chances that any gasket is the correct thickness on the china wall is pretty slim.
As stated above, a bead of whatever (I prefer "the right stuff" aka "the expensive stuff") along both front and rear making sure to get nicely into the corners on a really really clean surface and you should be good to go
M

 

I use alot of the Ultra black. You want to use more than enough, a thin spot might blow out.

 

Another vote for a liberal bead of RTV instead of the end gaskets. You can use a razor blade to trim it flush on the front once it cures - no one is going to see the inside or back anyway.

 

I also NEVER USE THEM when installing intake manifold on SBC. I use black , or Right-Stuff at China wall,,

 

I will 3rd the vote for using a liberal bead of the "right stuff" on the rails. Do not put it on the flanges unless you never want to remove the manifold.

 

i use the china wall gaskets to locate the long manifold gaskets. silicone them down at the water jackets. using the end gaskets to align the long gaskets. then set the manifold on to squish the gaskets down. pull manifold off to check the alignment of the long gaskets. now you are sure the water and intake ports are aligned correctly and the gasket isn't gonna move. remove the china wall gaskets and use a thick bead of rtv.

 

Another vote for "Right Stuff". I never use those end seals.

 

OK. Thanks folks.
Will ditch the end gaskets and I just bought a tube of Permatex #34328

I appreciate the responses.

Steve

 

My friend had the heads refurbished on his small block. The engine rebuilder told him to use Permatex liberally and let it Dry for a couple of days before starting the engine. I guess he didn’t want my friend to keep calling him with more problems.

 

A couple days is overkill. after setting main intake manifold gaskets, 1/4 inch bead of silicone. set manifold in place and just finger tighten bolts with proper sealant on bolts.
Let sit for an hour for the silicone to dry. then torque to spec. No leaks. Done.

 

I know its taboo to use the gaskets but they come from the factory with them installed.............

 

There is truth in what you say.


Steve

 

But from the factory they have / had control over all of the different variables and that gap is a known size... If you're putting a stock motor back together that hasn't been touched then gaskets are fine.
Hell I did small blocks with the gaskets lots of times. Just needs one to not seal to make it aggravating enough to not bother anymore...
M

 

.
.

EXACTLY,, 💯%,,,,

 

Has anybody tried removing the "Right Stuff" from an engine or removed an intake glued in place with the "Right Stuff"? From what I have heard that material is almost a permanent gasket once it dries in place.

I skipped using the rubber pieces one time and that was the time the RTV gasket failed and I had to do the job over again. I still like the rubber pieces but covered with RTV and glued in place while you lower the Intake manifold down.

Is the "Right Stuff" able to be removed easily? I am hesitant to use the "Right Stuff" as I like to be able to remove the parts easily. I would love to hear from someone who has removed it after it sets and to learn how they did it.

For some reason the rear China wall on the 427 seems harder to "seal" than on a small block. I am pulling my intake off again this winter so I am curious about what to use to seal it up. In the past I would glue the rubber seals in place using RTV or gasket maker. Then later apply the RTV bead over the rubber piece and lower the intake over it.

Are you supposed to let RTV dry or skin over before cranking down on the bolts? In the past I would let it skin over and then tighten the bolts and torque them. I am aware that cleanliness is critical on getting the seal to stay where you put it. I am just not familiar with letting it "dry" before cranking down on the bolts.

Thanks for the help and I hope everyone has a wonderful New Year!