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Sticks like crazy but comes off with a razor blade fine. wipe down with acetone or lacquer thinner and it's good to go. I don't bother letting it skin over, I want it to stick to both sides and accept that it'll be harder to remove later
M
If your haveing good success with the products your current using, keep doing that. If that equals good sealing and easy removal in 12 months, do it.
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. I never have let rtv to harden, only to get a good ' skin-over ' ,, 15-30 minutes, then instal parts..
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. Later removal is not a piece of cake, but,, any sealant that works,, will not easily come off..... If it comes off easy, it didn't work.
Thanks Mooser for sharing your experience with the "Right Stuff"! That I could live with and use the "RS" on my cars.
All I had heard was that it hardened into a very tough seal and that removing a Intake manifold where the "RS" was used would be far more difficult than normal. I have been anxious to learn more about it before I dove in and used it. I am preparing to remove my intake on my 427 to do a few things to it. When I put it back on I might try it.
I like your picture or avatar or whatever they call it. Big Block Corvettes are "special". I love mine!
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Originally Posted by ctmccloskey
Has anybody tried removing the "Right Stuff" from an engine or removed an intake glued in place with the "Right Stuff"? From what I have heard that material is almost a permanent gasket once it dries in place.
I skipped using the rubber pieces one time and that was the time the RTV gasket failed and I had to do the job over again. I still like the rubber pieces but covered with RTV and glued in place while you lower the Intake manifold down.
Is the "Right Stuff" able to be removed easily? I am hesitant to use the "Right Stuff" as I like to be able to remove the parts easily. I would love to hear from someone who has removed it after it sets and to learn how they did it.
For some reason the rear China wall on the 427 seems harder to "seal" than on a small block. I am pulling my intake off again this winter so I am curious about what to use to seal it up. In the past I would glue the rubber seals in place using RTV or gasket maker. Then later apply the RTV bead over the rubber piece and lower the intake over it.
Are you supposed to let RTV dry or skin over before cranking down on the bolts? In the past I would let it skin over and then tighten the bolts and torque them. I am aware that cleanliness is critical on getting the seal to stay where you put it. I am just not familiar with letting it "dry" before cranking down on the bolts.
Thanks for the help and I hope everyone has a wonderful New Year!
See my #10 post. DO NOT USE IT ON THE FLANGES! Using the Right Stuff on the china rails (ends) is OK and it will come off OK when removed with a razor blade or whatever you happen to use. However, if you use it on the china rails AND the flanges...GOOD LUCK trying to get the manifold off without using a crowbar. I made the bad mistake several decades ago by using the Right Stuff one time on my top plate on a CF manifold. I thought for sure I was going to break the top plate in half getting it off AND I had to use a crowbar to get it off. The Right Stuff seals that good. I haven't used the rubber or cork end seals since back in the 70s...but that's just me.
Has anybody tried removing the "Right Stuff" from an engine or removed an intake glued in place with the "Right Stuff"? From what I have heard that material is almost a permanent gasket once it dries in place.
Thanks for the help and I hope everyone has a wonderful New Year!
The black on the Block is The Right Stuff. Had it in globs on the rubber gaskets too. But it was easy to take off there, and off the China Walls, where it counts.
Whatever…..it needs to be checked to see if you need it….
.120’s are only used when needed….
Get a .060 in there and verify port match…..the end gap will come down considerably….
Get a .060 in there and verify port match…..the end gap will come down considerably….
Ya know, that's what I had in there before, a thin blue Fel-Pro Print-0-Seal. I'm not sure why I had it in there, in conflict with the docs. Can't explain WHY I do a lot of ....., well, you know.
what kit? what documentation? they look like standard heads and intake. why did you use the 060 gaskets? cuz it is the norm. and they never gave you an issue. the real question should be why are you doing what the kit sez this time when doing the correct thing worked last time?
What brand/part number are your intake to head gaskets? They appear thick. I run FelPro 1204 for my DART Iron EAgle (SBC) and yours look thicker than that.
what kit? what documentation? they look like standard heads and intake. why did you use the 060 gaskets? cuz it is the norm. and they never gave you an issue. the real question should be why are you doing what the kit sez this time when doing the correct thing worked last time?
Like I said Derek, I'm not sure why. Got the info from somewhere, about 6 years ago.
I bought the 383 kit off eBay, from White Bros, IIRC. Came with crank, bearings, rods, pistons, heads, and a balance worksheet. I believe that sheet because the first time it fired up, the only way I could tell it running was the noise. Beautiful. It may have been my machinist who bored the cylinders to .030 over that gave me the gasket info. I looked at the SBC NOTES with all the recommended Gaskets, push rods, spark plugs, with even head bolts/studs listed. That's what I'm going by this time.
Last time I had the intake off I used Edelbrock 7201 gaskets, which are 0.060, and they worked fine. I mostly chose those because I had a coupon from Advance to use and they were in stock and inexpensive.
What brand/part number are your intake to head gaskets? They appear thick. I run FelPro 1204 for my DART Iron EAgle (SBC) and yours look thicker than that.
Because there are a sh!tload of us and we have no reservations about second-guessing each other.
Would be a Fool to argue that Derek.
Mirrored image.
Believe the leak confined to the right side of the Block's hump, but will try to seal the joint's entire length. Brake cleaner and The Right Stuff packed in there for the 1st attempt to seal.
Intake gasket choices - .060" or .120"...
If the heads and/or decks are milled, the alignment of the intake bolt holes with the head's threaded bolt holes will be affected in addition to the alignment of the intake manifold ports with the head's ports. Usage of the thicker intake gasket can adjust for this to an extent, however, be careful when switching thicknesses as a forced misalignment of the manifold and threaded hole can cause cross-threading and flange fractures.
Intake gasket choices - .060" or .120"...
If the heads and/or decks are milled, the alignment of the intake bolt holes with the head's threaded bolt holes will be affected in addition to the alignment of the intake manifold ports with the head's ports. Usage of the thicker intake gasket can adjust for this to an extent, however, be careful when switching thicknesses as a forced misalignment of the manifold and threaded hole can cause cross-threading and flange fractures.
Thanks Larry.
When the shop bored the cylinders .030 overs, they also decked the Block some. I'm reminded of this because the engine's serial numbers are barely visible. And in using a thicker gasket this time, threading the bolts into the heads wasn't as easy as before.
Ashamed to show this, but it is what it is and I wanna drive this NOW, leak-free. Thank God it's hid back there.
