Another carb thread
You can't touch the price at the big stores too.





Out of a turn of a slow turn in first gear you should Be spinning the tires easily with that much power without dumping the clutch. Do you have any pics of the cam when you were building it? It should have the numbers scrawled on the end. It just doesnt seem like you Have an aggressive cam that would make 440 hp.
My car in first gear, rolling along slow along a boulevard would spin the tires if you floored it and lifted off repeatedly/ quickly and makes the front end hop. Didnt leave the ground but was fun and impressive.
My car wieghed 3750 ish with me in it at the track
- 195cc Intake Runner Volume
2.020" Premium Stainless Steel Intake Valves Feature A Swirl Polished Undercut Stem
CFM Port Flow Average @ 28"
.200" - 150
.300" - 190
.400" - 223
.500" - 252
.600" - 245
AFR 180 heads
180cc Street Head Flow Chart
intake
.200- 138
.300- 198
.400- 240
.500- 260
Blue prints 195 head doesn't even flow as well as AFR's 180 heads. This is going to make for lower intake charge velocity, less cylinder filling, less torque and power. It still should make the 440 they rated it at. But it sure would be nice to have better flowing heads.
We have a 1968 C3 with it's 427 running 12.25-1 compression ratio using L88 parts. I have a collection of carburetors that I used until I found the folks at A.E.D. and they woke me up to a great carburetor. They use Holley castings and build them in-house and they can make a carburetor that will find all the lost power you might have in there. I spent over an hour talking to the guy who spec'd out my carburetor and he wanted to know every detail about my engine and air filter. They sent me an unbelievable 850 Double pumper with it all set up when I took it out of the box. The owner of the company was interested in my application and suggested they would set the carb up on a dyno for me if I preferred or had any issues at all. He then suggested my C3 would be a lot of fun at V.I.R. some time and asked if I wanted to go with him sometime.
The carburetor was spot on when I installed it and I turned the fastest times yet with it installed. My Gtech pro suggested that it would be in the low 11 second range with their custom carburetor. The 25-55 mph runs showed a much improved combination and my Wide band O2 said it was set up properly.
One lesson I did learn is that the smaller volume of air (650 cfm) carburetors will have snappier performance but loose on the top end. Too big a CFM (850+) rating and the car will run fine at high speeds but you loose the snappy feeling of the smaller cfm carburetor.
A 750 is a "little bit big" IMHO for most 350 engines but might work better on a high revving 383. I use a 750 cfm for around town driving and the AED 850 when I want to see the top end performance on a tweaked 427. The difference is substantial and worth the swap out of carburetors.
Here is a list of my Carburetor Collection:
1. Holley 750 Double Pumper with electric choke on side of carburetor. No choke tower or choke plates, the idle RPM kick-up booster is all I had for cold weather starting.
2. Holley 750 Double Pumper modified by AVANTI of Philadelphia
3. Holley 850 Double Pumper modified by A.E.D., Custom designed for my High compression 427
4. Speed Demon 850 Virtually brand new by Barry Grant, stock unit
5. Edlebrock "Performer" 750 with electric choke, stock unit
And the latest is a Holley Stealth Sniper EFI system which is now running the 427 fueling for me and has an in-tank fuel pump that is near silent. No more carburetors on my 427 for me at least. I only used the Edlebrock to start the C3 in the cold weather as it would not work with my L88 Hood and parts. The Holley Stealth Sniper looks and fits on the engine just like a carburetor. It fit perfectly with the original locations on my 427 and lined up perfectly with the hood. My drop base plate has a hard time clearing anything other than a Holley Carburetor since it was designed for the Holley carburetor. The Stealth Sniper looks and fits just like a Holley Double Pumper carburetor and it has the FPR in side the fuel tank as well so I have only one line going forward to my throttle body. It is a clean looking system and works well!
This is something that requires some learning and determining what your engine wants. I wish you the very best!
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
- 195cc Intake Runner Volume
2.020" Premium Stainless Steel Intake Valves Feature A Swirl Polished Undercut Stem
CFM Port Flow Average @ 28"
.200" - 150
.300" - 190
.400" - 223
.500" - 252
.600" - 245
AFR 180 heads
180cc Street Head Flow Chart
intake
.200- 138
.300- 198
.400- 240
.500- 260
Blue prints 195 head doesn't even flow as well as AFR's 180 heads. This is going to make for lower intake charge velocity, less cylinder filling, less torque and power. It still should make the 440 they rated it at. But it sure would be nice to have better flowing heads.
I like them a lot too... hopefully that's not it. lol





Did you install them, have you checked to be sure?
If not, you need to insure you do have 3.55 gears before you do anything else.
Second, Bigger isn't always better when it comes to the camshaft grind.
You don't mention what cam you are running.
Find out and look at the cam manufacture's spec sheet and see what the operating range is of your cam and post what you find.
The wrong cam can kill performance, especially with the wrong heads and compression combination..
Third, Yep those side pipes are hurting your performance unless you are running WOT all the time.
Side pipes do look cool but rob bottom end and mid range torque.
Forth, Edelbrock carbs are great for cruisers, but I think they do little on most performance applications.
But before you purchase that new carb, make sure the new carb will bolt up to the intake manifold you have.
Fifth, As stated above timing is everything.
Out of a turn of a slow turn in first gear you should Be spinning the tires easily with that much power without dumping the clutch. Do you have any pics of the cam when you were building it? It should have the numbers scrawled on the end. It just doesnt seem like you Have an aggressive cam that would make 440 hp.
My car in first gear, rolling along slow along a boulevard would spin the tires if you floored it and lifted off repeatedly/ quickly and makes the front end hop. Didnt leave the ground but was fun and impressive.
My car wieghed 3750 ish with me in it at the track
Pedal to the floor
I have side pipes too. So that’s not it. I use the spiral inserts. The chambered inserts should work good too. In any case that’s gonna come into play at a much higher RPM if restriction is an issue.
if side pipes affect low end and midrange, I can’t tell from driving mine, strong in both those areas with my 350.
Did you install them, have you checked to be sure?
If not, you need to insure you do have 3.55 gears before you do anything else.
Second, Bigger isn't always better when it comes to the camshaft grind.
You don't mention what cam you are running.
Find out and look at the cam manufacture's spec sheet and see what the operating range is of your cam and post what you find.
The wrong cam can kill performance, especially with the wrong heads and compression combination..
Third, Yep those side pipes are hurting your performance unless you are running WOT all the time.
Side pipes do look cool but rob bottom end and mid range torque.
Forth, Edelbrock carbs are great for cruisers, but I think they do little on most performance applications.
But before you purchase that new carb, make sure the new carb will bolt up to the intake manifold you have.
Fifth, As stated above timing is everything.
Sidepipes could possibly be robbing a little HP I guess.
We have a 1968 C3 with it's 427 running 12.25-1 compression ratio using L88 parts. I have a collection of carburetors that I used until I found the folks at A.E.D. and they woke me up to a great carburetor. They use Holley castings and build them in-house and they can make a carburetor that will find all the lost power you might have in there. I spent over an hour talking to the guy who spec'd out my carburetor and he wanted to know every detail about my engine and air filter. They sent me an unbelievable 850 Double pumper with it all set up when I took it out of the box. The owner of the company was interested in my application and suggested they would set the carb up on a dyno for me if I preferred or had any issues at all. He then suggested my C3 would be a lot of fun at V.I.R. some time and asked if I wanted to go with him sometime.
The carburetor was spot on when I installed it and I turned the fastest times yet with it installed. My Gtech pro suggested that it would be in the low 11 second range with their custom carburetor. The 25-55 mph runs showed a much improved combination and my Wide band O2 said it was set up properly.
One lesson I did learn is that the smaller volume of air (650 cfm) carburetors will have snappier performance but loose on the top end. Too big a CFM (850+) rating and the car will run fine at high speeds but you loose the snappy feeling of the smaller cfm carburetor.
A 750 is a "little bit big" IMHO for most 350 engines but might work better on a high revving 383. I use a 750 cfm for around town driving and the AED 850 when I want to see the top end performance on a tweaked 427. The difference is substantial and worth the swap out of carburetors.
Here is a list of my Carburetor Collection:
1. Holley 750 Double Pumper with electric choke on side of carburetor. No choke tower or choke plates, the idle RPM kick-up booster is all I had for cold weather starting.
2. Holley 750 Double Pumper modified by AVANTI of Philadelphia
3. Holley 850 Double Pumper modified by A.E.D., Custom designed for my High compression 427
4. Speed Demon 850 Virtually brand new by Barry Grant, stock unit
5. Edlebrock "Performer" 750 with electric choke, stock unit
And the latest is a Holley Stealth Sniper EFI system which is now running the 427 fueling for me and has an in-tank fuel pump that is near silent. No more carburetors on my 427 for me at least. I only used the Edlebrock to start the C3 in the cold weather as it would not work with my L88 Hood and parts. The Holley Stealth Sniper looks and fits on the engine just like a carburetor. It fit perfectly with the original locations on my 427 and lined up perfectly with the hood. My drop base plate has a hard time clearing anything other than a Holley Carburetor since it was designed for the Holley carburetor. The Stealth Sniper looks and fits just like a Holley Double Pumper carburetor and it has the FPR in side the fuel tank as well so I have only one line going forward to my throttle body. It is a clean looking system and works well!
This is something that requires some learning and determining what your engine wants. I wish you the very best!
I have side pipes too. So that’s not it. I use the spiral inserts. The chambered inserts should work good too. In any case that’s gonna come into play at a much higher RPM if restriction is an issue.
if side pipes affect low end and midrange, I can’t tell from driving mine, strong in both those areas with my 350.
Pics:
Driver side
Passenger side
Lol at my dry *** hands in the winter














