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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 10:57 AM
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If you are interested I will look up info for the custom carb builder that did mine. It is a quick fuel annular booster 950 double pumper and it is a beast.
You can't touch the price at the big stores too.
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 11:25 AM
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Check and see if you are getting wide open throttle with the pedal on the floor. The older gas pedal arm attached to the pedal are known to bend. As well as having to thick mat or carpet. Use a zip tie as a tell tale for max cable pull if you have exposed cable or het an assistant.
Out of a turn of a slow turn in first gear you should Be spinning the tires easily with that much power without dumping the clutch. Do you have any pics of the cam when you were building it? It should have the numbers scrawled on the end. It just doesnt seem like you Have an aggressive cam that would make 440 hp.

My car in first gear, rolling along slow along a boulevard would spin the tires if you floored it and lifted off repeatedly/ quickly and makes the front end hop. Didnt leave the ground but was fun and impressive.
My car wieghed 3750 ish with me in it at the track
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 11:31 AM
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Look at your tail pipes. If you stick your finger in there does it come out with black soot, black finger, lightly black or nothing on your finger?
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 11:37 AM
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It just doesnt seem like you Have an aggressive cam that would make 440 hp.
Depends, if the heads flow good enough, exhaust with long tube headers, decent intake, easy 440 on a 383.
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 11:50 AM
  #25  
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Blue print 195 cc heads on this 383
  • 195cc Intake Runner Volume
    2.020" Premium Stainless Steel Intake Valves Feature A Swirl Polished Undercut Stem

    CFM Port Flow Average @ 28"


    .200" - 150
    .300" - 190
    .400" - 223
    .500" - 252
    .600" - 245

    AFR 180 heads
    180cc Street Head Flow Chart
    intake

    .200- 138
    .300- 198
    .400- 240
    .500- 260

    Blue prints 195 head doesn't even flow as well as AFR's 180 heads. This is going to make for lower intake charge velocity, less cylinder filling, less torque and power. It still should make the 440 they rated it at. But it sure would be nice to have better flowing heads.
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 11:55 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
Depends, if the heads flow good enough, exhaust with long tube headers, decent intake, easy 440 on a 383.
It has sidepipes. Hopefully that's not the reason.

Couple of pics cuz we have to have some pics:



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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 11:58 AM
  #27  
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I too will suggest an aftermarket Holley Builder named A.E.D. and they are near Richmond, Virginia. Their ads are in Hot Rod and Such and they make a lot of parts for the Holley carburetors. If nothing else, just check them out, they are all about quality and performance!

We have a 1968 C3 with it's 427 running 12.25-1 compression ratio using L88 parts. I have a collection of carburetors that I used until I found the folks at A.E.D. and they woke me up to a great carburetor. They use Holley castings and build them in-house and they can make a carburetor that will find all the lost power you might have in there. I spent over an hour talking to the guy who spec'd out my carburetor and he wanted to know every detail about my engine and air filter. They sent me an unbelievable 850 Double pumper with it all set up when I took it out of the box. The owner of the company was interested in my application and suggested they would set the carb up on a dyno for me if I preferred or had any issues at all. He then suggested my C3 would be a lot of fun at V.I.R. some time and asked if I wanted to go with him sometime.

The carburetor was spot on when I installed it and I turned the fastest times yet with it installed. My Gtech pro suggested that it would be in the low 11 second range with their custom carburetor. The 25-55 mph runs showed a much improved combination and my Wide band O2 said it was set up properly.

One lesson I did learn is that the smaller volume of air (650 cfm) carburetors will have snappier performance but loose on the top end. Too big a CFM (850+) rating and the car will run fine at high speeds but you loose the snappy feeling of the smaller cfm carburetor.

A 750 is a "little bit big" IMHO for most 350 engines but might work better on a high revving 383. I use a 750 cfm for around town driving and the AED 850 when I want to see the top end performance on a tweaked 427. The difference is substantial and worth the swap out of carburetors.

Here is a list of my Carburetor Collection:
1. Holley 750 Double Pumper with electric choke on side of carburetor. No choke tower or choke plates, the idle RPM kick-up booster is all I had for cold weather starting.
2. Holley 750 Double Pumper modified by AVANTI of Philadelphia
3. Holley 850 Double Pumper modified by A.E.D., Custom designed for my High compression 427
4. Speed Demon 850 Virtually brand new by Barry Grant, stock unit
5. Edlebrock "Performer" 750 with electric choke, stock unit

And the latest is a Holley Stealth Sniper EFI system which is now running the 427 fueling for me and has an in-tank fuel pump that is near silent. No more carburetors on my 427 for me at least. I only used the Edlebrock to start the C3 in the cold weather as it would not work with my L88 Hood and parts. The Holley Stealth Sniper looks and fits on the engine just like a carburetor. It fit perfectly with the original locations on my 427 and lined up perfectly with the hood. My drop base plate has a hard time clearing anything other than a Holley Carburetor since it was designed for the Holley carburetor. The Stealth Sniper looks and fits just like a Holley Double Pumper carburetor and it has the FPR in side the fuel tank as well so I have only one line going forward to my throttle body. It is a clean looking system and works well!

This is something that requires some learning and determining what your engine wants. I wish you the very best!
Reply
Old Jan 28, 2022 | 11:58 AM
  #28  
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Which baffles are you running in the side pipes? These can make a big difference.
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 11:59 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
Blue print 195 cc heads on this 383
  • 195cc Intake Runner Volume
    2.020" Premium Stainless Steel Intake Valves Feature A Swirl Polished Undercut Stem

    CFM Port Flow Average @ 28"


    .200" - 150
    .300" - 190
    .400" - 223
    .500" - 252
    .600" - 245

    AFR 180 heads
    180cc Street Head Flow Chart
    intake

    .200- 138
    .300- 198
    .400- 240
    .500- 260

    Blue prints 195 head doesn't even flow as well as AFR's 180 heads. This is going to make for lower intake charge velocity, less cylinder filling, less torque and power. It still should make the 440 they rated it at. But it sure would be nice to have better flowing heads.
Wow... They do dyno test them and they regularly get over 440 HP on these engines. Mine was not dyno'ed because I initially bought it as a short block, then bought the heads later and assembled it. I did the valvetrain geometry and all looked perfect on the stand. Have checked them recently also and no loose rockers or anything looking out of order.
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 12:01 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 76strokervette
Which baffles are you running in the side pipes? These can make a big difference.
Baffles are Classic Chambered Vette Packs: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ettepacks.html

I like them a lot too... hopefully that's not it. lol
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 12:06 PM
  #31  
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Probably good on those. I am running the 3 inch for max flow and they are fairly loud.
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 12:07 PM
  #32  
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But what is the lift and duration? A .480 lift and 210 duration wont make 400 hp on the best head available so that info is critical
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 12:27 PM
  #33  
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First, Do you know for a fact that you have 3.55 gears in the rear end?
Did you install them, have you checked to be sure?
If not, you need to insure you do have 3.55 gears before you do anything else.
Second, Bigger isn't always better when it comes to the camshaft grind.
You don't mention what cam you are running.
Find out and look at the cam manufacture's spec sheet and see what the operating range is of your cam and post what you find.
The wrong cam can kill performance, especially with the wrong heads and compression combination..
Third, Yep those side pipes are hurting your performance unless you are running WOT all the time.
Side pipes do look cool but rob bottom end and mid range torque.
Forth, Edelbrock carbs are great for cruisers, but I think they do little on most performance applications.
But before you purchase that new carb, make sure the new carb will bolt up to the intake manifold you have.
Fifth, As stated above timing is everything.
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 12:39 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
But what is the lift and duration? A .480 lift and 210 duration wont make 400 hp on the best head available so that info is critical
follow the link to the motor the OP posted. At the bottom of the page it specs the cam used.
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 12:42 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
Check and see if you are getting wide open throttle with the pedal on the floor. The older gas pedal arm attached to the pedal are known to bend. As well as having to thick mat or carpet. Use a zip tie as a tell tale for max cable pull if you have exposed cable or het an assistant.
Out of a turn of a slow turn in first gear you should Be spinning the tires easily with that much power without dumping the clutch. Do you have any pics of the cam when you were building it? It should have the numbers scrawled on the end. It just doesnt seem like you Have an aggressive cam that would make 440 hp.

My car in first gear, rolling along slow along a boulevard would spin the tires if you floored it and lifted off repeatedly/ quickly and makes the front end hop. Didnt leave the ground but was fun and impressive.
My car wieghed 3750 ish with me in it at the track
OK just went out and checked it. Had the wife floor it and check the throttle to see if it had more travel. Nope.. looks good. Definitely pulling it all the way.



Pedal to the floor
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 12:44 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by jim-81
Wow... They do dyno test them and they regularly get over 440 HP on these engines. Mine was not dyno'ed because I initially bought it as a short block, then bought the heads later and assembled it. I did the valvetrain geometry and all looked perfect on the stand. Have checked them recently also and no loose rockers or anything looking out of order.
which heads did you end up with? The 195,s blue print specs for that engine?

I have side pipes too. So that’s not it. I use the spiral inserts. The chambered inserts should work good too. In any case that’s gonna come into play at a much higher RPM if restriction is an issue.

if side pipes affect low end and midrange, I can’t tell from driving mine, strong in both those areas with my 350.
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by OldCarBum
First, Do you know for a fact that you have 3.55 gears in the rear end?
Did you install them, have you checked to be sure?
If not, you need to insure you do have 3.55 gears before you do anything else.
Second, Bigger isn't always better when it comes to the camshaft grind.
You don't mention what cam you are running.
Find out and look at the cam manufacture's spec sheet and see what the operating range is of your cam and post what you find.
The wrong cam can kill performance, especially with the wrong heads and compression combination..
Third, Yep those side pipes are hurting your performance unless you are running WOT all the time.
Side pipes do look cool but rob bottom end and mid range torque.
Forth, Edelbrock carbs are great for cruisers, but I think they do little on most performance applications.
But before you purchase that new carb, make sure the new carb will bolt up to the intake manifold you have.
Fifth, As stated above timing is everything.
Yes, I rebuilt the diff with the help of a friend. Definitely 3.54

Sidepipes could possibly be robbing a little HP I guess.
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 12:49 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ctmccloskey
I too will suggest an aftermarket Holley Builder named A.E.D. and they are near Richmond, Virginia. Their ads are in Hot Rod and Such and they make a lot of parts for the Holley carburetors. If nothing else, just check them out, they are all about quality and performance!

We have a 1968 C3 with it's 427 running 12.25-1 compression ratio using L88 parts. I have a collection of carburetors that I used until I found the folks at A.E.D. and they woke me up to a great carburetor. They use Holley castings and build them in-house and they can make a carburetor that will find all the lost power you might have in there. I spent over an hour talking to the guy who spec'd out my carburetor and he wanted to know every detail about my engine and air filter. They sent me an unbelievable 850 Double pumper with it all set up when I took it out of the box. The owner of the company was interested in my application and suggested they would set the carb up on a dyno for me if I preferred or had any issues at all. He then suggested my C3 would be a lot of fun at V.I.R. some time and asked if I wanted to go with him sometime.

The carburetor was spot on when I installed it and I turned the fastest times yet with it installed. My Gtech pro suggested that it would be in the low 11 second range with their custom carburetor. The 25-55 mph runs showed a much improved combination and my Wide band O2 said it was set up properly.

One lesson I did learn is that the smaller volume of air (650 cfm) carburetors will have snappier performance but loose on the top end. Too big a CFM (850+) rating and the car will run fine at high speeds but you loose the snappy feeling of the smaller cfm carburetor.

A 750 is a "little bit big" IMHO for most 350 engines but might work better on a high revving 383. I use a 750 cfm for around town driving and the AED 850 when I want to see the top end performance on a tweaked 427. The difference is substantial and worth the swap out of carburetors.

Here is a list of my Carburetor Collection:
1. Holley 750 Double Pumper with electric choke on side of carburetor. No choke tower or choke plates, the idle RPM kick-up booster is all I had for cold weather starting.
2. Holley 750 Double Pumper modified by AVANTI of Philadelphia
3. Holley 850 Double Pumper modified by A.E.D., Custom designed for my High compression 427
4. Speed Demon 850 Virtually brand new by Barry Grant, stock unit
5. Edlebrock "Performer" 750 with electric choke, stock unit

And the latest is a Holley Stealth Sniper EFI system which is now running the 427 fueling for me and has an in-tank fuel pump that is near silent. No more carburetors on my 427 for me at least. I only used the Edlebrock to start the C3 in the cold weather as it would not work with my L88 Hood and parts. The Holley Stealth Sniper looks and fits on the engine just like a carburetor. It fit perfectly with the original locations on my 427 and lined up perfectly with the hood. My drop base plate has a hard time clearing anything other than a Holley Carburetor since it was designed for the Holley carburetor. The Stealth Sniper looks and fits just like a Holley Double Pumper carburetor and it has the FPR in side the fuel tank as well so I have only one line going forward to my throttle body. It is a clean looking system and works well!

This is something that requires some learning and determining what your engine wants. I wish you the very best!
There are definitely a lot of different Holley carbs out there, which is part of the confusion should I decide to swap on a new one. Metering Plate / Double Pumper / Slayer / Brawler ... etc! Heck I don't even know if mechanical or vacuum secondaries would be better. For now it sound like there are a lot of good suggestions on other things to check which I will do. New carb will be a last resort I guess.
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 12:52 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
which heads did you end up with? The 195,s blue print specs for that engine?

I have side pipes too. So that’s not it. I use the spiral inserts. The chambered inserts should work good too. In any case that’s gonna come into play at a much higher RPM if restriction is an issue.

if side pipes affect low end and midrange, I can’t tell from driving mine, strong in both those areas with my 350.
The standard heads BP uses on all the 383's. Part H8002K: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-h8002k
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 12:55 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
Look at your tail pipes. If you stick your finger in there does it come out with black soot, black finger, lightly black or nothing on your finger?
OK just did this. Black soot/finger on both sides. It usually smokes a tiny bit on startup after sitting several days but nothing major. Doesn't burn oil.

Pics:


Driver side

Passenger side

Lol at my dry *** hands in the winter
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