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I just looked at your video closely. The bearing looks like it is contacting both the trans and the release bearing at rest. (zero clearance?) make sure you measure it there with a feeler gauge, you need at least .150 between the bearing and the fingers at rest. Otherwise the clutch is partially depressed at rest and will always slip. From what I can see it does not look like it. But you will have to measure it. You need to do this before you take anything apart to confirm what the problem is. Then you will know how to fix it. You may need a different throwout bearing like my 69 Camaro, or a plate like Gordon. Or less shims if you are lucky.
thanks. There was not any clearance at rear but many say it’s supposed to ride in the fingers? I’ll call the supplier and find out but I’ll be pulling the tranny out this weekend. I’ll post updates as I go.
Yes it should constantly touch. Because there is no spring pulling it away. But the bearing should be capable of moving another .150" before it bottoms out, with very light pressure. At that point things get really tight, b/c the bearing bottomed out, and the only way you can put a bigger feeler gauge in there is to move the clutch fingers, which are plenty stiff. Not getting this correct appears to be the #1 issue with custom hydraulic throwout bearings. Because each one it has to be independently adjusted at installation time. And because some of the parts combinations just don't work.
I’m about to pull the tranny out. Hopefully tonight. I’m going to remeasure the clearance and double check my work from the first time. I’ll get some pictures posted here of the clutch parts. Hoping I don’t need to replace anything.
Last edited by Bluesting70; Mar 5, 2022 at 06:33 PM.
Ok, finally had some time to pull every out. Pictures of all components below. Please keep in mind that this set up was brand new and has at most 800 miles.
advice and questions welcomed.
The disc looks like slightly uneven wear in the pads but could just be my vision. Do these look like 800 miles of wear? I don’t remember how thick they were new. Rivets look untouched Side view of disc A couple fingers look bent in. Probably from my install fight when new. Notice a ton of dust built up in orange. PP surface Flywheel looks ok to me. How do you know if it’s glazed? First look after tranny removal. Starter area with heavy oil film. Not sure where that’s coming from. TOB. Don’t see any issues with it. Looks like a good clean up and reuse. Any issues with that? Tranny after removed. Had to tighten down the 4 bolts holding the shifter to the tranny as they were a little loose. Other than that the shaft has some very slight movement but don’t remember if that’s normal or not.
my tranny shaft also could move no issue..
probably nothing to do with your issue but... what's up with the fingers being out of shape? and length?? what brand is that? i don't think you bent them
also maybe the clutch itself is not releasing as designed? i think Lars did a write up i cannot find..
EDIT
here it is https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...vel-range.html mine were all same size?
my tranny shaft also could move no issue..
probably nothing to do with your issue but... what's up with the fingers being out of shape? and length?? what brand is that? i don't think you bent them
also maybe the clutch itself is not releasing as designed? i think Lars did a write up i cannot find..
EDIT
here it is https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...vel-range.html mine were all same size?
based on your picture you have me wondering if I put the disc in backwards. I don't remember the brand as it was from American Powertrain and I'd have to look on my invoice which I plan on doing. to me it seems like I at least will need to replace the disc and pp. I will take the measurements and compare to the way I had it set up to see if I the problem was not enough clearance. It's looking like to crappy rooky mistakes but that's how I learn.
Bent fingers is from cooking the clutch. Heat does that. Heat comes from slipping. The heat warps the diaphram spring. Maybe the disk warped too.
Clutch must be replaced after the cause of the slip has been identified.
My money is on the throw out bearing setup keeping pressure on the fingers with your foot all the way off the pedal. Load on the engine makes the disk slip creating the heat.
This would be a lot easier to fix with a stock mechanical pedal linkage.
I really don’t recall but I’m betting the clearance was miscalculated by me. I will be ordering a new clutch and pp plate. This one was a centerforce. Not sure I will go with that again. I will measure the clearance when I get it all put back together.
based on the pictures, is the flywheel good? Should I do anything to it while I have it exposed? It has 800 miles on its life.
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I would have it resurfaced so when you get a new clutch it will be embedding the same disc material. You can buy a surface hone like the one that brush research makes for flex hone http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=6
Ok, finally had some time to pull every out. Pictures of all components below. Please keep in mind that this set up was brand new and has at most 800 miles.
advice and questions welcomed.
The disc looks like slightly uneven wear in the pads but could just be my vision. Do these look like 800 miles of wear? I don’t remember how thick they were new. Rivets look untouched Side view of disc A couple fingers look bent in. Probably from my install fight when new. Notice a ton of dust built up in orange. PP surface Flywheel looks ok to me. How do you know if it’s glazed? First look after tranny removal. Starter area with heavy oil film. Not sure where that’s coming from. TOB. Don’t see any issues with it. Looks like a good clean up and reuse. Any issues with that? Tranny after removed. Had to tighten down the 4 bolts holding the shifter to the tranny as they were a little loose. Other than that the shaft has some very slight movement but don’t remember if that’s normal or not.
What is causing those trails of goop on your flywheel flinging out from under the flywheel bolts? Is that just a lot of anti-sieze? Whatever it is, It probably isn't helping you there.
If you get a new clutch....get a McCleod......I have the Super Street Pro....lot of reasons for this....the hydraulic deal is much different but I think it is a top quality clutch.
I'm betting on improper clearance between the TO bearing and the PP fingers. Looks like it was not fully releasing and you were getting a lot of slippage and eat. I also do not like the looks of those fingers. They should all be the same. I just went through this with an SST kit. I had to put a spacer between trans and bellhousing as they suggested a minimum of .150. I was at best I could get was .095. SST sent me a spacer to install. I did and so far we are good. You TO bearing is a different design but I'll bet your clearances are off.
What is causing those trails of goop on your flywheel flinging out from under the flywheel bolts? Is that just a lot of anti-sieze? Whatever it is, It probably isn't helping you there.
if we are looking at the same thing it’s clutch disc material.
if we are looking at the same thing it’s clutch disc material.
i think he means these lines, might have contaminated surface..
One lesson i learned with my McLeod clutch which has been fantastic.. or any other clutch.. i use an entire roll of paper towels with lacquer thinner to clean the flywheel and plate before it stopped being black.. clean very well...
I'm betting on improper clearance between the TO bearing and the PP fingers. Looks like it was not fully releasing and you were getting a lot of slippage and eat. I also do not like the looks of those fingers. They should all be the same. I just went through this with an SST kit. I had to put a spacer between trans and bellhousing as they suggested a minimum of .150. I was at best I could get was .095. SST sent me a spacer to install. I did and so far we are good. You TO bearing is a different design but I'll bet your clearances are off.
i think he means these lines, might have contaminated surface..
One lesson i learned with my McLeod clutch which has been fantastic.. or any other clutch.. i use an entire roll of paper towels with lacquer thinner to clean the flywheel and plate before it stopped being black.. clean very well...
If you get a new clutch....get a McCleod......I have the Super Street Pro....lot of reasons for this....the hydraulic deal is much different but I think it is a top quality clutch.
Jebby
Ok, can I get any other recommendations in clutch kit brand and model? Preferable from those running successful hydraulic
