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Well test failed. Got everything back in and cranked it up. No disengagement. Thought maybe pedal stroke was not enough so I adjusted that. No disengagement. I’m starting to think I mismeaured which would be the reason for the ruined centerforce clutch possibly. I’m going to get a good look at the tob again while pressing pedal. If the spacers I put in are too much I can easily take those out by just removing one tranny/bell bolt at a time without taking everything out. Problem is, I won’t know what my measurements are. I guess I could use feeler gauge to measure the distance of the tob face and clutch fingers. Does anyone know if that can be done without bleeding the system?
Here’s a little more color on my measurements. I’m not home so I don’t have exact numbers but at the fingers to bell face I got 2.74. The straight edge I used at the bell for the gauge was like .22 thick so I deducted that and ended up with a measurement of 2.52. The tranny face to tob face was 2.55. So basically I had -.03 space. I used spacers that were 1.6 thick. Again, I’m not home right now to see my notes but these numbers are pretty close.
Got the tranny in with the air gap at .165. Spec is between .100 and .200. Torqued everything down and filled the mc with dot 3. Got most if not all the air out. Right off the bat the pedal is noticeably softer. I don’t have oil in the tranny nor the drive shaft back in so I couldn’t start it up to see. It’s possible the pedal will be softer than before because before the clutch fingers were binding with the to bearing. Before I can finish this and test it out I need to finish installing the crossmember.
If these numbers are correct you should be good. I would make absolutely sure you get all the air out. Air compresses and will shorten the "throw"
I suggest a reverse Phoenix bleeder or similar if you are unsure if all the air is out. I saw something similar at NAPA.
Try that before you pull the trans again.
If these numbers are correct you should be good. I would make absolutely sure you get all the air out. Air compresses and will shorten the "throw"
I suggest a reverse Phoenix bleeder or similar if you are unsure if all the air is out. I saw something similar at NAPA.
Try that before you pull the trans again.
When I look at the video I posted here on the tob extending it doesn’t look like it’s going as far now. I will double check that first to your point. It may still have air in it.
Got more air out as it’s going into gear now but a little tough to get into gear. If I could get the fingers down a hair more I think it would be smooth. I’m concerned with how far down I have to push the clutch.
Made some more pedal adjustments and gear shifting is now smooth. Put my pedal stop in for good measure and all is good for now…..500 mile break in period begins. You’ll love this…..decided to take it for a 20 minute leisure ride and guess what?!?!? It won’t start! Not even a budge. Dash lights turn on but what in goodnesses name could I have knocked loose?
Last edited by Bluesting70; Mar 19, 2022 at 10:44 PM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Where you under the dash, does yours have a neutral safety switch? Maybe you pulled a wire out of it
Maybe while you were under the car you pulled a wire off the starter solenoid. Or maybe you blew a fuse that is linked to the ignition
Where you under the dash, does yours have a neutral safety switch? Maybe you pulled a wire out of it
Maybe while you were under the car you pulled a wire off the starter solenoid. Or maybe you blew a fuse that is linked to the ignition
checked all those things. It turned out to be the switch. The pedal wasn’t traveling down enough to activate the ignition. So far so good
I am glad you got it all worked out and it is "shifting smooth" now.
Hydraulic TOBs can sometimes be quite challenging to set up for the very first time, and some parts combos are tougher than others.
But the good news is, once you have it "right" it should never really ever change again.
The extra free-play should self-compensate for any wear, and you will never even notice!
I am glad you got it all worked out and it is "shifting smooth" now.
Hydraulic TOBs can sometimes be quite challenging to set up for the very first time, and some parts combos are tougher than others.
But the good news is, once you have it "right" it should never really ever change again.
The extra free-play should self-compensate for any wear, and you will never even notice!