Hi all,

Looking for some recommendations for headers for my 1970 L46 (350hp/350) small block. The previous owner was racing the car and installed long tube headers. Last year I had the motor rebuilt and re-painted so all looks nice. The old headers look like poop. During the rebuild, I installed an aluminum intake (Edelbrock Performer) and reinstalled the original Q-jet carb which I had Lars rebuild. The motor builder also put in a "mild cam" but I don't have the very specifics on it.

I have done some research here on the forum and other places. I have seemed to have learnt that long tube headers are good for making HP at the high RPMs (racing). I am not racing. I am driving it on sunny weekend days. That being said, I don't mind some small upgrades that might get me a little extra power here and there. I like the idea of not going with long tube as it can help eliminate potential ground clearance issues and I'm likely not utilizing the extra power gained from the long tubes. I was very interested in mid-length headers, but I called Summit and they didn't have ANY that would work with my car, specifically the manual transmission. Does anyone know of a mid-length that would work with manual trans?

If there really aren't any mid-length, then what is the difference between "shorty" and "block hugger" and which would you recommend? I would definitely want ceramic coated so they stay looking nice and reduce heat issues.

Thanks in advance for any comments and recommendations!

btw - I will likely top this off with new Borla (or Corsa, or Magnaflow) mufflers. Would love to have a nice, sophisticated low rumble...not obnoxiously loud....but noticeable..

 

Check this out:

1968-1972 Corvette 4-Speed Exhaust System | Corvette Central

I have been using the version of this exhaust system made to fit my 1980 Corvette for about 15 years now, and I am very happy with it.

1980-1981 Corvette Dual Exhaust | Corvette Central

The shorty block-hugger headers are about half-way between the stock manifolds and full-length headers, as far as power production goes. The MagnaFlow mufflers sound good, not raspy and loud like FlowMasters, but they do get a little louder when you lay into it. I like 'em, myself. If you are planning on replacing the whole exhaust system, it's a pretty good deal.

Scotty

 

Take the headers off and have them ceramic coated.....bolt them right back on......best value.
Long tube headers fill holes in the powerband down low and through the midrange.......not just top end.....
I personally will not own a vintage V8 car without long tubes......you are not utilizing even a stock engines potential without them.
A 2.5" exhaust is recommended too...
The Magnaflow mufflers in these and many other kits are 2" at the outlet......be aware......kinda defeats the purpose of a perfromance exhaust if you ask me......especially for $828.

Jebby

 

Excellent point. If you're happy with the exhaust except the headers looking like poop, send them off to Jet Hot or their equivalent, and they won't look like poop anymore. You may even enjoy some of the alleged benefits of ceramic coated headers. The ceramic coating is supposed to reduce heat loss, making your engine bay cooler, and there is an old saying that heat is the lubricant of an exhaust system. Keeping the gasses hot allows them to retain their velocity better. Plus, they look great, and they stay looking great for a long time, too.

Although, I gotta say I'm a little skeptical about the whole long tube header thing. A properly designed long tube header, with the primaries of the correct diameter and length, and all the SAME length, with the correct length and diameter collector, and not hooked up to a street exhaust system, will definitely do better than a shorty header, but I'm not convinced that a poorly designed and fabricated long tube header hooked up to a street legal exhaust system really has the benefits that a lot of people think it does. I'm not saying it doesn't, I'm no expert after all, I'm just saying I'm not convinced.

All in all, having your existing headers recoated seems like the easiest, most cost-effective thing to do. And put whatever mufflers you want out back, it's a free country, right? Right!

Scotty

 

My ancient Herman headers were on my 72’ when I got it…..I had them ceramic coated when I was building the new engine…..they look great….30 year old units.
And yes…ceramic is the best investment for under the hood….lowers tube temps at the head over 250 degrees…..in C3’s….you need all you can get….

Jebby

 

Ditto on Jebby's reply. As for fit and clearance? What could possibly fit better then these? Hooker Super Comps. Not cheap but very well made and the fit with absolutely NO modifications, even with Borgenson PS. And they do not hang below the trans cross member. I picked these up off of a member here for $275 shipped, spent another $120 to have them high temp coated and spent less the the cheapest set on the market.

 

Thank you for the comments so far. C3 - those re some nice Looking headers!

I didn't consider cleaning mine up (actually, I tried cleaning them up and painting with header paint when the motor was done, but I must have done it wrong as the paint is all flaking off.

How can I determine if my headers are any good? I don't think there is any markings on them? I also think there is a small leak at the connection to the head and I assumed that the flange was warped as it still seems to leak a little even with brand new gaskets.

 

If they arent rusted out and have thick flanges it may be worth coating. Im a big believer in LT on any older car they work.
Cant race dyno sheets like we see on youtube.

I have a set of custom made 1-3/4 shorty headers with 1 standpipe. Originally for L98 as shown above but the exit location seems identical.
Brand new in the bag coated inside/.out. Even a set of new heapipes with 02 bung 2.5". Dougs type flanges...shameless plug here.

From the looks of C3TPI pic cant help but wonder if the PN for C3 and 4 headers are the same?

 

I do not think shorty headers are worth any power. Not a good investment.

You can sandblast the long tubes and paint them with BBQ paint and that will last about a year before needing a touch up. Surface prep is the key to getting anything to stick to the headers.

Ceramic coatings are nice but they usually need to be sent out and they are pretty pricy. If your budget allows this it might be the best way to go.

 

shorty headers are better than exhaust manifolds. better because they are pretty. otherwise a waste of money. black gas grill paint is the best budget option as stingr said.

 

Yes and no..the ones I posted will outflow manifolds by a bunch. Maybe not quite as good as a longtube but not a total waste.
OP if you get them coated have them do the insides also. $120 is super cheap!! Last time I checked it was a few hundred at least.
Hey if they are shiny they gotta be good!

 

Headers installed, piped, and hung are worth their weight in gold.

There are many cure when run paints that will look nice.

Hell, a good wrap has appeal.

 

Anyone know of a place in Minneapolis that ceramic coats them? Shipping them would seem like a pain in the ars...I will have to try and measure the flanges and see how thick they are.

 

The information is out there.

Better mid-range torque and high-end power. The downside to headers is the cost (if your manifolds are good, headers are infinitely more expensive (divide by zero ) and the packaging issues. I’ve had headers on my small block so long though that I can’t remember what working around the ram’s horn manifolds was like. The 60’s and 70’s small block manifolds are some of the worst flowing designs out there. The 80’s stuff is a lot better, but headers are better yet than that. Though I do doubt that short tube headers would be an improvement over the 80-82 setup.

 

The headers I have are designed for the earlier C3's. They are 1 3/4" primaries. The Hooker listing for these does not include late model C3's but I don't know why. They fit perfectly. They were uncoated when I bought them but brand new. My powder coating guy sand blasted them and then coated them with VHT 2000 degree header paint. He then baked them in the oven like you would powder coat. He said he has had very good success with this method as far as the paint staying intact and not fading. I had him use satin clear as the final coating over the flat black. They look as good as the factory ceramic coating Hooker uses.

 

I have a set of Hedman headers on my 68. They were jet coated perhaps 10 years ago, and with only limited driving, they look like crap. The JetHot coating is pealing off and the steel underneath is badly rusted. I have another set of new, in the box header. Can someone refer me to someone's whose ceramic coating was successful? Thankss

I'd really like to have these headers duplicated in stainless...I see this as to the ultimate solution.

I have Hedman side-pipe headers which are used in conjunction with the factory 69 side pipe exhaust system covers and mufflers. Last time I looked, Hedman no longer had them in their catalog, but Summit still had them in inventory. They weren't expensive,...~$180. The header tubes are probably medium length. I've read they are mostly for appearance since the tubes are unequal length. They fit my 68 with a ZZ4 really well. Had to grind out the flange port openings a little to match the D port heads. On the passenger side, a grease zero fitting on the relay rod pivot required slightly dimpling of one tube.

 

There are a handful of places here in SoCal that can do a nice coating that wont flake off.
Maybe contact Dougs in Orange county see who they use? I have 2 sets here and are 10x nicer than teh coating on my old hookers.

Equal length headers are overrated imo. Got a set for my 'El wanting every last .5 hp what a nighmare to access things like starter oil filter #7 plug. Not worth it
Bet Id feel 0 difference with an uneuqal length. I like the 3./4 length headers. None of those problems, better then manifolds..and yeah they look cool.

 

C3TPI, your system looks great! Where did you get the pipe components downstream from the headers? I.e. the pipe from the header through the crossmember and the H pipe.

 

I had ceramic coated Hooker Comps,....not the Super Comps on my 355 for two decades and the coating held up on the primary tubes pretty well. The flanges did start to rust towards the end, but whenever I pulled the exhaust for whatever reason, I touched the collectors up with silver engine paint....almost a perfect match to the ceramic.

The fit was excellent, plug clearance good and compared to the stock manifold my butt dyno felt at least twenty five horsepower!

Don't waste your money on shorty headers

 

I have hookers and the summit brand the summit fit better and just as good if not better. Oh yeah and cheap. I just sanded and painted them they look great. No clearance problems