Thinking about Switching to a Solid Lifter Cam, Maybe Roller too?
As for if you replace the cam what cam to go with..... Hands down if it's gonna be a weekend driver put a hydraulic roller in it is my vote. There is alittle more expense there than a flat tappet cam but your duration after .200 lift is so much better with a roller cam of any sort it's tough to argue against it if your willing to spend the additional dollars. Solid rollers have their place but unless your wrapping it up above 7000 rpm I'd stay with a hydraulic roller.
Ive said it before, and i’m baffled by the amount of “ just send it” replies people get after stating that they think they’ve wiped a cam.
If…..(Again for the sake of making sure I’m not setting off an alarm here).
If you wiped a cam, you’ve wiped the engine. Where do you think the ground off metal goes when that happens? ( A cookie if you guessed in the bottom of the oil pan,…directly north of where the oil pump pick up tube will suck it back up into the engine.)
Who’d here would advise to dump even a teaspoon of metal dust into the oil pan as acceptable? Yet there’s a whole line of guys advising to replace the dead cam w/a different one, and keep on keeping’ on.
For your sake, I hope it’s a tune or adjustment. But If it’s truly a flattened cam, pull the engine, because it’s on the way to stranding you somewhere between here and there.
Did a rocker come out of adjustment when breaking in the cam?
Flat tappet cams are endangered species. With the changes in oil lubrication chemicals being the main death nail for a flat tappet cam, whether it’s hydraulic or solid, the only cam that will survive as a replacement is a roller.
As long as you don’t have a whole pan full of liquid sandpaper lying in the bottom.
Last edited by MLM7447; May 24, 2022 at 11:13 PM.





The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Not brand bashing, just posting my experience. Mush metal is my opinion too...
id buy elgin Isky Crower maybe even schneider..they do cost more but you DO get what you pay for.
I hear Howards has top tier lifters and the average quality ones too never tried their products.
If youre gonna add compression..it would be hard not to step up to a better head, get some compression and a solid xx cam.
addicted to the seamless way they run, sound etc.
Last edited by cv67; May 25, 2022 at 03:47 PM.
-Who actually makes that part right now? -Who's going to make it next week when Comp finds a cheaper sub-sub-Vendor?
The problem is that the Comp brand means about as much as Summit or Jegs brand for many of their parts. Subcontractors under Subcontractors and the source gets swapped out all the time. No idea what you're going to get or who's going to make it where.
Why pay extra for the name when their business model has become just another Summit or Jegs (but with an actual Marketing and Branding department / budget) for many of their parts?
"A turd by any other name would smell just as terrible." -Shakespeare (or something like that...)
Who cares who slaps their name on those Chinese springs or pushrod guideplates?
Adam
On a street driven car, I’d still talk to one of those guys, but more than likely they’ll have a shelf grind that will work for you, and a thousand others as well. And it won’t matter if it’s CC, Crane,Crower,Bullet, Lunati or any of a dozen others.
Last edited by MLM7447; May 25, 2022 at 04:39 PM.
1. I would rather swap in an engine that came factory with roller cam than utilize a retro-fit ordeal, even if this meant swapping in a late model LS motor
2. Solid roller is my favorite cam, it doesn't have to be radical, or high lift, or even fast ramp rates. It can also work well in daily driver applications if you are the type of person to obsess and attention to every detail and don't mind periodic inspections or adjustments, which I prefer, again personal opinion
Something about the tappet noise of a solid roller and the response of the engine from low rpm just.... MMM HMMM makes my heart rate speed up and mouth water
Other 2 were actually shelf grinds, wasnt happy to find that out.
Lots of low lift solid rollers out there even for towing. Do what you want, dont worry about what we think
One thing is you gotta buy premium parts or should anwyays. I choked buying good stuff but only had to do it once.
Last edited by cv67; May 25, 2022 at 05:42 PM.
-The COST of retro roller lifters for an SBC ESPECIALLY if you want one that doesn't bleed down with aggressive lobed cams and the springs that are required to support them at a decent RPM is just ridiculous. (One place where FORDS are actually cheaper than SBCs... and that's a sad statement...)
OEM roller block: drop in some cheap and fantastic LS7 lifters and spin them to 7,000 rpm -SIMPLES.
OEM roller blocks have the cooling revisions, too. .
Adam
I cant see doing the same to a gen 1 or BB with heavy valves and expecting it to behave the same. I could be wrong.
Both have thier pluses for sure.
Maybe for brainless "dont ever wanna have to touch the engine* guys a hyd is the obvious choice.
If you ever had a solid lifter car pull up next to you at hwy speed...that noise. It says "f off Im a real hot rod".
lol





20 + years ago I had a HR cam and decided to try running solid rollers on it to get away from the rpm limitations. I found this article the other day.
Pit Stop - Solid Rollers On Hydraulic Cams (motortrend.com)













