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I like your paint job. Yes, our TT hood. 502 is a tall block so the frame engine mounting points were lowered. My tall single planes limit my air filter choices because of how close to the hood on the front is.
Thanks... yeah it turned out pretty good for an $800 body and paint project done in my 2 car garage... Neighbors didnt care for the fumes much though.. lol
Thanks... yeah it turned out pretty good for an $800 body and paint project done in my 2 car garage... Neighbors didnt care for the fumes much though.. lol
I busted up the front end bad hitting debris out road racing that had come off another car. I did all the work at home and drove it to a friends house who has a paint booth in his monster garage. I had my 67 camaro out back under the blue cover. fiber glass work is nasty
I busted up the front end bad hitting debris out road racing that had come off another car. I did all the work at home and drove it to a friends house who has a paint booth in his monster garage. I had my 67 camaro out back under the blue cover. fiber glass work is nasty
My car was a mess body wise, a front fender off another car was grafted on at some point, the front bumper was hit and crumbled and someone hit my rear drivers quarter panel while it was parked at my nephews graduation party and I was driving it that summer without paint... The insurance claim from that ironically paid for the repairs and paint. my car has been hit twice since I owned it and both times it wasnt moving.
Honestly, would it matter to you if I told you there was?
Seriously though, Ive only driven it twice this way before tearing it back down to fix a coolant leak at the intake manifold gaskets. I also made other changes recently such as the ported generic ebay heads and rejetting that was needed as a result which also made a large noticeable improvement so its tough to gauge this stuff individually.. I also do have to believe there's a reason virtually all modern cars come with some form of CAI now.. Somewhere engineering was done to so the benefit as most car companies dont brag on this for marketing reasons which would be one reason to justify the costs. Ive seen some dyno testing done a while back which also supported gains...
I guess its kind of like those modern electric fans you dont feel are beneficial, along with air conditioning or power steering in a corvette.. Its all about what we as the owners of our cars do to benefit our own wants and tastes. and often we choose to focus on different aspects of these things to support our preconceived notions of what we want sometimes ignoring all data that doesnt align with it to justify our course of action. Years ago I remember giving someone a hard time about thier CAI on this forum because at the time I really just didnt like the looks of them and wanted to believe there was no real benefit to justify my choice not to run one.. Now I try to bite my tongue in moments like that its hard when I know I tend to be an overly opinionated person feeling others should see that if it worked for me it could work out the same for them which is just not always true.
I'll add what started all this was driving the car around with no hood one day a year ago.. The car just had a different personality as far as not being as sluggish when taking off at intersections.. That got me wondering if the incoming air temps had any input on this.
Don't forget that lowering the intake air temp is supposed to make an engine more resistant to detonation. Perhaps allowing one to squeeze in another degree of spark advance or a quicker advance curve, maybe even run a cheaper grade of fuel. Also, thank you for keeping alive one of The Unwritten Rules Of Hotrodding. "If, for any reason, you remove the hood of a Hotrod, you are required to at least take a short spin in the car without the hood on it." Although, be advised: The lack of a functional hood in place can possibly affect the air flow through the radiator, so keep an eye on the coolant temp gauge while enjoying the "no hood" experience.
took a 30 minute drive around town today stop and go 30mph traffic thr car had been running closer to 45 mins- 1hr though... The last gauge shows air cleaner temps on top and engine bay temps on bottom. once in on the highway the engine bay temp drops dramatically and the temps become closer... It was about 80 out at the time
I finally have a working CAI/cowl induction setup on the car. I have had multiple temp sensors under the hood since last year shortly after swapping to electric fans for the rad. What I found previously with just the 15" open top air filter was while sitting at traffic lights the temp sensor inside the air filter would go up dramatically while idling at the light... not a huge deal because it would drop down to ambient within a couple minutes of moving again but I still figured "hey, I have this vented hood that came with the car so..". Anyway now that I have the weatherstrip in place to seal off the airbox to the hood I have noticed the air filter temps not only stay cooler longer while idling, they are cooler than ambient temps now on the highway. yesterday for example I saw 73 degrees in the filter while the engine bay sensor was still reading 91 in the engine bay while doing 70mph. I have yet another seal to seal off the backside of the airbox to the hood crossmember which will allow even less air from under the hood to be pulled in. I previously had an l88 airbox on order from exclers but after 6 months of waiting in limbo I canceled the order.. kinda glad I did. the stock system was long gone when I bought the car.
It's too late now, obviously, since you've got it up and running and it seems to be working well, but I can't help but think that it might have been kinda cool to make those NACA ducts functional instead of drawing air from the cowl. It doesn't look like you're actually drawing air from the high pressure area at the base of the windshield anyway, which is kinda the whole point of cowl induction.
Scotty
Last edited by scottyp99; Jun 25, 2022 at 01:26 PM.
all valid concerns I thought about but again I installed the temp sensors to give me an indication on how its working and it seems to be working well. and yes as Bikespace mentioned theres a lot of flow through the hood vents and still quite a bit through the rear around the gauges. I do only have a 355 afterall.
I also thought about the turbo intake ducts in the hood... which would be a bit more work to make functional, keep in mind I only just removed my ac compressor and I may reinstall it eventually but its unlikely also if I get caught in the rain now I have no worries
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jun 25, 2022 at 10:03 PM.
Nice job. I did my own cold air box also. I used the L88 stuff, but instead of bonding it to the hood, I riveted the air cleaner base to the box and use it as a cold airbox and sealed it to the hood. Works great!
From the pic, it doesn't look like there is a path for outside air to get to the air filter. How does it work"?
It has the cutout at the top. Pic may have been before we cut it. I have since been able to fit a 4 inch tall air cleaner under it which the dyno really liked. I modified the hood to give it some extra height at the air cleaner, but kept it stock L88 height at the windshield.
How did you guys measure for the air box to get a good seal to the hood? I can't fit in the engine compartment with the engine in there!
Foam and rubber insulation!
Many use playdough or crumpled up foil. I had rubber weatherstripping that allowed for about an inch of up and down movement on the edge lip of the air cleaner. I adjusted it so it sat as high as it could and put some white powder on the rubber strip. when I closed the hood it left a white mark on the hood where the seal touched. I then installed the weatherstripping fully on the cleaner and added a 1" foam weatherstrip to the hood over the marks left by the rubber. This way the two seals meet when the hood is closed. it consistently keeps my air cleaner air about 40 degrees cooler than under hood temps elsewhere and close to ambient so im happy with it.
Question ....I know that you are using a hi rise hood while I may OR may not be doing the same ...But could you release the average height from filter base to top flange surround ...The diameter part will be a breeze to fab as well as the distributor kick up, but knowing the hi rise hood measurement for this most excellent piece, can help me to decide if I can do this using the stock hood OR just get a new hood ...Thanks !
Question ....I know that you are using a hi rise hood while I may OR may not be doing the same ...But could you release the average height from filter base to top flange surround ...The diameter part will be a breeze to fab as well as the distributor kick up, but knowing the hi rise hood measurement for this most excellent piece, can help me to decide if I can do this using the stock hood OR just get a new hood ...Thanks !
