Were you able to get the timing set?

 

Not yet. I'm just going to put the air cleaner assembly back on when i do it. The picture above looks like i'll have plenty of room to twist the distributor. I watched someone do it on youtube with the air cleaner off.

 

Yeah.....Youtube is our friend, I do consult him often Just mark your harmonic balancer with some white paint on toothpick, and plug the vacuum hose when pull it off the vacuum advance canister. check that your RPMS are in spec. before setting timing too.

 

Sounds like you are new to working on the early era cars.

proper vacuum is a must for head lights breaks, interior air, and timing.
You can wake up that L82.

Think about;
ported vacuum verses manifold to run the dist. It is some work to 'recurve' one but it really helps.

Good luck

 

Easy than. Drag up the trash can and toss all of it. Make life easy on yourself.

 

Yep, this is disconnected. Where does it go, i looked everywhere.



I looked through all my photos and cannot find where this hose came off of, does anyone know where this plugs into?

 

@lars was the first person to comment on this thread. Find a thread with his email, and ask for his:
Timing, Vacuum advance, HEI, and Q-Jet papers.
Follow his timing recommendations, and you'll be in the top 10% of all running C3s in the world. Not for overall HP of course, but you'll have the best tune you can for what you have*.

As for the vacuum hoses, here's my short list of what you actually need:

• Vacuum Advance on distributor (direct connection, manifold vacuum)
• PCV
• Brake booster
• Fuel cannister purge and signal (if you still have it).
• (Your automatic transmission also needs a vacuum line)

One of your surplus hoses may go to the heat riser. Make sure it's open, and disconnect the vacuum hose. A lot more complexity comes from the thermo-vacuum switches (TVS) in your water neck, and the air cleaner assembly. Guess how many of those you actually need. Once you simplify as much as you can, you can add back vacuum circuits. But you don't actually need anything except vacuum advance and PCV. Everything else can be converted to manual, hydraulic, or electric.

* One caveat to the tune statement. It is possible that total mechanical advance of your L82 HEI distributor is limited to about 10 degrees mechanical. IIRC, that is what @interpon found in his 79 L82 dist. That may limit what you can do with your current hardware. But you are on track to learning! Be sure to pick up a shop manual, assembly manual, and look for the vacuum diagrams online.

 

and that is why you need a set-back timing light. my backyard a-hole version is put the tdc mark on the balancer at 15 btdc on the timing tab. now paint a line with white out or toothpick at the 0 mark. now move that white line to 15 btdc and do a second white line at 0. now when you are shining the timing light you see 3 timing marks 15 degrees apart. so as it advances you know how much by where the 15 or 30 mark is. old school you set idle timing and revved it and watched the timing mark disappear from view. so you knew it advanced but not how much.

 

Got a light, has dwell, rpms, advance.

 

Do you have the ducting to hook up the Cold Air Induction? If not, there's a project for you later on.

Scotty

 

Put them back on last night.

 

I have a loudish grinding sound and the p/s pump is leaking. So i would take a guess that it's the p/s pump but what do you guys think. I just can't catch a break with this car. The sound went away for like a minute or two but then came back. I drove the car around the block and the steering is feather light so it's still working.

 

I think you should start a new thread on this topic. That said, it sounds like a pulley rubbing either against the block, bracket, or a component like steering pump housing.

 

start removing belts. alt and water pump will be ok off for a short test

 

I removed the hose guard on the alternator bracket, it was definitely touching. The sound is gone but i still have a large p/s leak. I think i may have overtightened when i changed the belts and caused the leak. Another new project.

 

Did you get the timing instructions from Lars? That's the same dialback light I use (works great!), but I'm curious to know what your dist's built-in mechanical advance range is. For science.

You'll want to put that guard back on. Mine fits without rubbing, but looking at the washer mark, yours was all the way at the limit of adjustment. I can't explain why that would be the case.

Where is your PS pump leaking from? With the Borgeson swap in my 79, I replaced the pump with a rebuilt one from RockAuto. No leaks since, though I had previously replaced every hose chasing leaks in the stock system.

 

I got the instructions from Lars, i want to reread it again. The timing just kept climbing well past 3,000, i think i went to 3,800 before i stopped so i will need the mr gasket spring kit. Right now it's at 14 initial.

The guard is maxed out and just touches the belt. My upper hose is nowhere close to the belt, so do i really need it?

The pump seems to be leaking from around the bottom bolt, under the pulley. You can see the reservoir being crushed a bit.