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Engine going together now specs are:
Forged flat tops, .017 in the hole with cometic .027 head gaskets, 64cc aluminum heads 190cc runners, howards 227/235 roller cam with 1.6 sharp rockers giving 550/560 lift, RPM air gap intake, 770 holley, msd pro billet distributor locked out at 36* ...So running the compression calculator I get 10.17:1...compression, just wanting some feedback on the setup, this is going in a 4 speed 3.55 rear gear car...
Sounds real good. 4 cut pistons or 2 cut pistons? I'm thinking with 4 cut pistons a bit closer to 10-1. perhaps a tad under. quench sounds good. Not clear on cam timing. But Sounds very similar to my engine. Around 400 HP one would think.
Although I used hyperunetic pistons. A little more forgiving.
You locked-out the dizzy advance timing? Or do you mean you clamped the dizzy at 36*?
Also, that's quite a bit of lift on the cam. I would double check valve retainer to valve guide clearance. Off hand, I do not remember the minimum on that.
What does the head maker say about max lift with their springs, do you know?
Are the heads already on? If not, I would introduce the piston to a gob of clay, set the head on, no gasket, set the lash #1 cyl and rotate the crank.
I believe Exhaust valve to piston clearance is 0.080.
To get the projected lift of the cam, you need to track down the cam number and find the base circle diameter. Usually around 320. Them multiply that by your rocker ratio. (1.6)
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jul 31, 2022 at 09:18 AM.
You locked-out the dizzy advance timing? Or do you mean you clamped the dizzy at 36*?
Also, that's quite a bit of lift on the cam. I would double check valve retainer to valve guide clearance. Off hand, I do not remember the minimum on that.
What does the head maker say about max lift with their springs, do you know?
Are the heads already on? If not, I would introduce the piston to a gob of clay, set the head on, no gasket, set the lash #1 cyl and rotate the crank.
I believe Exhaust valve to piston clearance is 0.080.
To get the projected lift of the cam, you need to track down the cam number and find the base circle diameter. Usually around 320. Them multiply that by your rocker ratio. (1.6)
The springs are rated for .600 lift per the manufacturer, the cam is the a howards rattler, when using a lift/rocker arm ratio of 1.6 I came up with .560 lift on the exhaust side when entering the specs for 1.5... the diz is locked out and off another build locked out/clamped not sure if there is a difference 36* timing all the time. The heads are not on so I could check, so far ive been told the the valve reliefs it will handle a .560 lift with a .044 squish.
very similar to what im running only my cam is a bit smaller 270hr cam an smaller 680 carb. I have .041 quench with same size heads 1.6 RRs and same static compression as you I have a 3.55 rear end also just not yet installed with my 2004r
for what its worth, with my ebay head flow numbers and specs desktop dyno gave my build an optimistic 423hp...
Locking out the timing is seldom street-able. Its an all-out racing trick. So I assume this is a race motor only.
You do realize that with the locked timing at 36* at full throttle, it's also 36* when cranking right?
On the valve head / piston clearance:
You have piston 0.017 down, 0.027 gasket, over half inch of valve opening and an unknown fly-cut depth in the piston top.
PLUS! You need a minimum 0.080 clearance between exhaust valve head and piston relief.
Don't take someone's word for it. Get the clay in there and check it yourself. No need for a head gasket. Just lay head on the block with a couple head-bolts, set lash for one cylinder only.
I'm thinking you won't have 0.080 with that gasket. Hope so.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jul 31, 2022 at 04:16 PM.
very similar to what im running only my cam is a bit smaller 270hr cam an smaller 680 carb. I have .041 quench with same size heads 1.6 RRs and same static compression as you I have a 3.55 rear end also just not yet installed with my 2004r
for what its worth, with my ebay head flow numbers and specs desktop dyno gave my build an optimistic 423hp...
good to know im running the white box speedmaster ebay heads as well, id be very happy with 425hp...
Locking out the timing is seldom street-able. Its an all-out racing trick. So I assume this is a race motor only.
You do realize that with the locked timing at 36* at full throttle, it's also 36* when cranking right?
On the valve head / piston clearance:
You have piston 0.017 down, 0.027 gasket, over half inch of valve opening and an unknown fly-cut depth in the piston top.
PLUS! You need a minimum 0.080 clearance between exhaust valve head and piston relief.
Don't take someone's word for it. Get the clay in there and check it yourself. No need for a head gasket. Just lay head on the block with a couple head-bolts, set lash for one cylinder only.
I'm thinking you won't have 0.080 with that gasket. Hope so.
I ran it locked out on a solid lift 383 for 4 years, drove great, high torque starter and bingo never had an issue. I think that l"locked out is for race only" may be a myth that is overhyped, the same person that showed me how to lock it out has ran all of his sbc street cars locked out for past 30 years without issue. as far as the clearance its not the lift that worried me because the valves wont be anywhere near full lift at TDC its the exhaust duration at 235, ive always been told once duration gets close to or over 240* duration that PTV issues could arise if the quench is tight but I will mic it and see for sure
And how many starters did you go through because of kick-back? Holes in pistons? Cracked piston ring lands? Broken rings?
Not me man. I prefer fluctuating advanced timing.
However,
If one insists on this insane timing procedure for street use, then the trick is to have a starter button separate of the IGN switch.
Spin the engine over first, then "introduce the juice.
And how many starters did you go through because of kick-back? Holes in pistons? Cracked piston ring lands? Broken rings?
Not me man. I prefer fluctuating advanced timing.
However,
If one insists on this insane timing procedure for street use, then the trick is to have a starter button separate of the IGN switch.
Spin the engine over first, then "introduce the juice.
no issues, no broken parts..when I sold the engine as a short block it was still solid, pistons and cylinders looked fine etc..
Hp is gonna be more dependent on head flow assuming no significant restrictions on the intake or exhaust flow. What heads are these? What kind of flow?
what's the LSA on that cam?
If it's and automatic what is the torque converter stall?
Hp is gonna be more dependent on head flow assuming no significant restrictions on the intake or exhaust flow. What heads are these? What kind of flow?
what's the LSA on that cam?
If it's and automatic what is the torque converter stall?
yea thats the cam but using 1.6 rockers...the info was in my post... 4 speed 3.55...head flow #'s I dont have, not ARP numbers but 1/3 the price and this was a build with tight budget, stuff I had laying around or traded for, the only new nice parts are the cometic head gaskets haha everything else is recycled..
Hp is gonna be more dependent on head flow assuming no significant restrictions on the intake or exhaust flow. What heads are these? What kind of flow?
what's the LSA on that cam?
If it's and automatic what is the torque converter stall?
That cam seems better suited to a 383 imo. But to each his own. Lots of lift, pretty long duration and a narrow ish 109 LSA.
I’d bump the compression up.
The lift is mild even with a h-roller. I have not seen 4 valve relief forged flat tops in many years. Seems to me that I used some 30 years ago on a 355 and they were the heavy TRW brand.
Modern performance forged pistons with 2 valve reliefs are cut for bigger diameter valves. The bigger the diameter of the intake valves the less valve to piston clearance. Little 2.02 is generally not a problem with your small cam specs choice.
Locked out ignition is a very poor idea from 50 years ago when using magnetos. We were smarter and used MSD 20 degree timing retard boxes with the flip of a switch and later the adjustable retard boxes when they became available.
modern performance heads are made for sub 34 degrees of mechanical advance. My AFR are 32 degrees. They have heart shaped fast burn chambers.
I don't use aluminum rockers.
You do know that you can run solid rollers on h-roller cams. My little 355 did 7200 rpm in every gear. It was just my self proclaimed rev limiter red line
That cam is 66* overlap. Pretty big for street, still fine, just getting largish. It sounds as if you’ve done this before? With that overlap and 10.17:1 you DCR will be about 8.1 if you’re running at sea level DA’s. Given the overlap I’d want closer to 8.5 or maybe more.
I'm running 8.8 DCR with 54* overlap @ 4000+ feet which computes out to 8.0 DCR at that altitude. I could have gone higher. Also have 3.55 rear. However running auto with 3000 stall.
Have you considered shaving the head for more CR? Have you computed in your altitude into the DCR?