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I just found the rubber bushing squished out of the left upper control arm. I have researched the complete replacement of the front,, upper and lower control arm bushings and will probably have to do the entire front end. But, is there a way to just remove the rubber and slide a new poly bushing onto the end of the shaft without removing everything from the car?
Short answer - no. You will need to pull the arms to change the bushings and it is not a simple job.
Strongly recommend you replace with rubber if your car is going to be street driven only. Search the forum for countless posts on the ever-raging argument about rubber vs poly.
Short answer - no. You will need to pull the arms to change the bushings and it is not a simple job.
Strongly recommend you replace with rubber if your car is going to be street driven only. Search the forum for countless posts on the ever-raging argument about rubber vs poly.
Thank you. Yes, I am a rubber bushing guy. Looks like I have another huge job on my hands. The only reason I wondered about the poly is if it could be slid into place.
I guess the only way a poly bushing style would push in, is if it had the steel poly bushing holder pressed in.
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I have the same problem....upper left. But I think I'm just going to replace the arms.
Summit sells complete Moog upper arms with rubber bushings ready to go for $71 bucks...
I am suffering the same affliction, cept mine is lower driver's side. I tried to drive a rubber busing on then suck it up with a #8 bolt, no dice. Got a poly, no dice. Have a #8 bolt and think washer there now, so can at least drive it to church on Sunday's.... I could not get the hole right in the center to get the bushing started, I could not figure out a way to line that up....
PS only the rubber part of my bushing was missing; I had the nice clean shiny steel part still in the arm so I was trying to squish a new rubber part in....
I have the same problem....upper left. But I think I'm just going to replace the arms.
Summit sells complete Moog upper arms with rubber bushings ready to go for $71 bucks...
I checked Summit and Moog for a upper control arm for a 68. I couldn't find one.
Can you send the link?
If the bushings are more than about 20 years old, the rubber has deteriorated to the point where it should be replaced. That applies to the uppers as well as the lowers.
I would caution you about buying new replacements for the prices that are quoted. You’re far better off having someone like Bair’s Corvette rebuild your existing ones. At least you will know you have American metal for such a critical component.
If the bushings are more than about 20 years old, the rubber has deteriorated to the point where it should be replaced. That applies to the uppers as well as the lowers.
I would caution you about buying new replacements for the prices that are quoted. You’re far better off having someone like Bair’s Corvette rebuilt your existing ones. At least you will know you have American metal for such a critical component.
Just worth a mention . . . don't torque the control arm end bolts until the suspension has settled with the car's weight. I you torque them with the suspension unloaded, the rubber bushings will be holding the car up and quickly tear.
As mentioned before, changing these is not a simple job. Removing the front springs is highly dangerous so unless you know exactly what you are doing and you are aware of and be prepared to take the necessary safety precautions, I don’t recommend you try it yourself.
Just worth a mention . . . don't torque the control arm end bolts until the suspension has settled with the car's weight. I you torque them with the suspension unloaded, the rubber bushings will be holding the car up and quickly tear.
Doesn't it depend what position the mounting rod is in when you tighten the end bolts?
The huge rod that runs through the bushings with two holes in it. The rod that you mount it to the frame with.
If you ensure it's in the same position as it would be when it's on the car and weighted there shouldn't be an issue.
The huge rod that runs through the bushings with two holes in it. The rod that you mount it to the frame with.
If you ensure it's in the same position as it would be when it's on the car and weighted there shouldn't be an issue.
pretty sure they are talking about the bolts that tighten the ends of the 'rod' not the bolts that the 'rod' bolts to the car.
i go into a lot of pics and details in my previous post link.. as i never did it before and many helped me.
I understand that. But you can turn the rod to the proper position, and tighten the end bolts with the control arm not on the car.
DON'T do this. Leave the end bolts loose. Mount the control arms to the car and reassemble the suspension. Lower the car. NOW you can tighten the end bolts.
Here's the deal, the outside of the bushing is secured to the control arm. After you tighten the end bolt, the inside of the bushing will be secured to the "mounting rod." In between is rubber. You don't want a twist in the rubber when at normal ride height.
DON'T do this. Leave the end bolts loose. Mount the control arms to the car and reassemble the suspension. Lower the car. NOW you can tighten the end bolts.
Here's the deal, the outside of the bushing is secured to the control arm. After you tighten the end bolt, the inside of the bushing will be secured to the "mounting rod." In between is rubber. You don't want a twist in the rubber when at normal ride height.
I understand. I will tighten it when I have weight on the wheels. But what happens when it's all done and I lift the car with a frame jack and the front suspension drop to the stops.
Upper control arm bushing.
springs?
