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The best way to remove the control arm bushings upper or lower- is to remove the arms and take off the end washers. then place it in a large vice ( vertical ) lock the cross shaft in the vice and get a small sledge hammer and pound the ARM downward, and the shaft pushes the bushing out of the arm, some times a little trans fluid on them helps move things along, have used this method many times and it works well.
thanks..yup that's all done..any idea on spring install?
Last edited by interpon; Jan 25, 2021 at 12:21 PM.
OK this can’t be said enough I’ve read 50 forums I’ve been on the Internet watching all the videos and thank God for Lars‘s paper. Let me be clear the locating hole for the springs are not on the bottom where the indentation is it’s up on top of the spring align your spring in the top frame. the upper frame not the bottom lower a arm or it looks like the exact same stop I put a small screwdriver in it and it looks like my spring is actually about halfway covering the hole but that’s good enough for me and don’t forget to take the screwdriver out before you bring in the spring and place it fits so much better this way..used a strap to hold but after reorientation it slid in...yes i used a bicycle coated lock for safety
Success!!!! See the hole looking up into spring..mine intersects the hole ..close enough...holy cow folks upper a arm locator not bottom
Last edited by interpon; Jan 25, 2021 at 12:23 PM.
I found myself second-guessing myself as to where to line the spring up top or bottom I can confirm from taking pictures before I removed the original spring that the end on the bottom was about 2 inches away from the hole on bottom a arm and if I look at the spring in alignment to the top hole it is exactly where the hole is on the top originally so it appears that I sense that this is probably a severe issue for many people that fight for the right ride height, difficulty of installation, or difference, because if you align it to the lower hole it’s going to sit different (if you can get it in) then if you were going up to the upper frame, anyway here’s a picture of the OEM manual that’s not very clear and it does point to the top of the spring at lowers and struck. @lars if it wasn’t for your paper I would not have attempted this job. I would take note that in the instructions it does say to align it with the lower a arm where I thought it would be too as it looks too obvious , maybe that should be the upper frame?
I find the instructions in the service manual kind of strange because it shows you the distance from where the metal dives down which is very difficult to see as opposed to the hole that’s there they make no mention of the hole which I find bizarre. It is hard to see but that change in metal is in fact right by the hole in the top which I missed the first time which is why I thought it was the bottom as well.
ALSO theoretically if you do as the manual says.. you should actually cover the hole to some degree as the measurement is from the peak stop to spring stop 0.38 +/- 0.12, and at that point is NOT a drain hole especially if on top
thank you
Last edited by interpon; Jul 17, 2020 at 03:15 PM.
Side two in.pics of strap ( leave somewhat loose because as you jack it tightens) and bike cable for safety..lined up upper a arm to hole..popped right in..
note, cannot get torque wrench on top ball joint die to caliper hose in way..if i did again..by myself i would remove caliper and MUCH lighter trying to hold that thing and putting it on is not easy..
Get it close so spring loose and in place the attach strap and cable chain etc..
Last edited by interpon; Jul 17, 2020 at 03:16 PM.
Ok...here we go to the finish finally..thanks to all for help..hope it helps out others worst case ac...etc..
starting ride Height from floor to lip of fender 28 inches after new suspension springs 29 inches, after a successful test drive 28.5 inches. Car like new zero noticeable ride degradation or excessive stiffness..handles excellent...really noticeable over bumps..and when pushing corner really hard it snaps to like on rails but smoother faster..had to really be into turn to get same sensation later in turn originally if that makes sense? Not sure if tighter bushings or spring or all. Hell i thought it drove good before..
lower ball joint one bad, other ok but loose..uppers all good but replaced..slight idler arm movement..probably good...replaced while there.moog springs..
tightening the a arm shaft end bolts..bottom ok..to about 50-60 pounds....no clue if right...uppers were a pita to reach..upper manual says 60 pounds was only able to get torque wrench on one and thats a lot of torque for that small bolt..the other best i could tighten with gearwrench as the front uppers are nearly impossible to access...add to that the car on ground to tighten..took a while..i would say one vein finger torque best i could do.estimate 30? Pretty tight and lock washers.
put all shims back in very slight lean to right but drives fantastic, no hurry on alignment till i find someone capable near me.
i’m going to guess and say that replacing the springs pretty much gives you the exact same Ride height as the OEM I figure my original springs after 40 years maybe dropped a half an inch so I’m very happy with the end results and I’m glad I didn’t cut any I would say that I would bet you based on all the postings that I’ve read that a lot of people mistakenly put the springs in not aligning it with the hole on the upper a arm but the lining up with the hole in the bottom of the a arm which would cause the car to sit up higher..
all in no alignment.~300 bucks
my spring choice 474 pound rate, decision here https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-for-79-a.html
thanks
Last edited by interpon; Jan 25, 2021 at 12:28 PM.
I just did a '69 Big Block car a few weeks ago using, and validating, the procedure. The only trick is to use a socket and a clamp to pop the studs out of the passenger side upper a-arm attach points:
Lower arms dropped down and springs yanked out:
Removing lower arms:
Uppers and lowers out of the chassis:
Spindles and rotors pulled off as assemblies - no need to disassemble:
Gutted front end after 3.5 hours of work:
30 minutes if air chisel work and the bushings are all out:
It's not pretty, but it's fast and it works:
A flapper wheel on a high-speed cleans up the busing bores just great. Before:
After:
Shafts cleaned up and test-fitted to new bushings:
A-arm bushing holes measured to verify light press-fit of bushings into bores. Any excessive mismatch is taken care of to eliminate problems during bushing installation:
Bushings measured to verify fit on the holes:
Bushings pressed into arms, and cross shafts lube'd up for installation:
Lowers all assembled and ready for installation:
Mounted in the chassis and ready for springs:
Springs installed without a spring compressor by lifting the lower arm up and jamming them into place while lifting the arms:
Done! Total duration start-to-finish: 12 hours (2 short days with beer while watching Jerry Springer "I want my Stripper Ho' baby mamma!"):
Is that a Sun distributor profiler snuggled next to your tool case ??
I just did a '69 Big Block car a few weeks ago using, and validating, the procedure. The only trick is to use a socket and a clamp to pop the studs out of the passenger side upper a-arm attach points:
Lower arms dropped down and springs yanked out:
Removing lower arms:
Uppers and lowers out of the chassis:
Spindles and rotors pulled off as assemblies - no need to disassemble:
Gutted front end after 3.5 hours of work:
30 minutes if air chisel work and the bushings are all out:
It's not pretty, but it's fast and it works:
A flapper wheel on a high-speed cleans up the busing bores just great. Before:
After:
Shafts cleaned up and test-fitted to new bushings:
A-arm bushing holes measured to verify light press-fit of bushings into bores. Any excessive mismatch is taken care of to eliminate problems during bushing installation:
Bushings measured to verify fit on the holes:
Bushings pressed into arms, and cross shafts lube'd up for installation:
Lowers all assembled and ready for installation:
Mounted in the chassis and ready for springs:
Springs installed without a spring compressor by lifting the lower arm up and jamming them into place while lifting the arms:
Done! Total duration start-to-finish: 12 hours (2 short days with beer while watching Jerry Springer "I want my Stripper Ho' baby mamma!"):
Is that a Sun distributor profiler snuggled next to your tool case ??
Noting spring location for reassemble My safety romex..I mistakenly loosened both ball joint Instructions say loosen bottom one after spring out Passenger side looks like a treat with air Missing beer
I was about to say missing beer lol. Wow great info I will sit down and reread a few times. Great pics. Will order as necessary.
Question: does anyone replace the rear lower shock mounts when rebuilding arms even if the are ok?
Or is it just a cosmetic thing and throwing money away if the mounts are ok?
The shock mounts are knurled and they usually are flattened out once removed. The knurl holds the shock mount in position, if they are loose torquing the LH mount can cause it to rotate CW and out of position. The mount should be held in position when torquing. Me, if I am rebuilding the arms and want the job done without concern I use new mounts. If you want original you reuse them if still good..
all right i'm sitting down and going over items and pricing. how exactly am i pressing the bushings in. knock them in there with my mallet?. also on last pic you say see the hole looking up into spring. i'm assuming you mean the hole to the right where spring is covering about half. screwdriver in and away we go. stop me if i'm wrong.
i'm rereading a bunch of times and watching videos. i want to at least get the orders going in.
all right i'm sitting down and going over items and pricing. how exactly am i pressing the bushings in. knock them in there with my mallet?. also on last pic you say see the hole looking up into spring. i'm assuming you mean the hole to the right where spring is covering about half. screwdriver in and away we go. stop me if i'm wrong.
i'm rereading a bunch of times and watching videos. i want to at least get the orders going in.
yes on hole..
see the posts to clean up with wheel and mic the openings.. should not be loose but.. i would think tap in.. the tightening of bolt locks it in.
i suggest emailing lars to get latest papers.. he prefers email which would be latest version. what is posted may or may not be the latest.
