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I’m on my second solenoid I replaced the first one because I messed the threads up where the ground wire goes,so replaced it with a new one,and have cranked it at a dozen times,the other day after already cranking it up several time,it all of sudden stops turning over,tried tightening it which did get it to turn some,but stil didn’t crank,so took the nut off and the treads were destroyed,can I just replace that brass bolt with something else,that want keep messing the threads up.
No, that bolt has a copper contact inside the solenoid cover that connects the battery to the motor when you turn the key to START. You can put a 3/8 lockwasher on the post if you have trouble keeping the nut on tight. Then again, your problem seems a bit out of the ordinary. I've never had a starter cable come loose. That's in 49 years of driving 60s vintage GM cars.
There is no ground wire on a starter solenoid, so you lost me right at the start.
You keep saying that the threads on the studs are damaged.
I would highly recommend you purchase a torque wrench.
Seems you are over tightening the heck out of these studs.
I couldn't even begin to guess how many starter solenoid nuts I have tightened over the years.
Never once stripped the treads. Did crack a cover once years ago. So how are you stripping threads without breaking the bakelite cover?
Interesting problem you have indeed. Definitely out of the ordinary.
the solenoid is grounded to the starter by being bolted to it. the starter is grounded to the engine block by being bolted to it. the big ground wire grounds everything the engine needs ground path for by returning to the negative post of the battery. in this car's case it detours through the frame of the car to save a 4 or so foot piece of wire. i used to build these starters. for a living. i won't eff with them any more. get a permanent magnet gear reduction starter and stop worrying about the issues this nearly 100 year old electric motor design comes with.
I’m on my second solenoid I replaced the first one because I messed the threads up where the ground wire goes,so replaced it with a new one,and have cranked it at a dozen times,the other day after already cranking it up several time,it all of sudden stops turning over,tried tightening it which did get it to turn some,but stil didn’t crank,so took the nut off and the treads were destroyed,can I just replace that brass bolt with something else,that want keep messing the threads up.
Unless OP is talking about the positive cable that's Black at the copper 3/8" lug. 247 inch pound or 20 ft. Pounds. 15 ft. Pounds for a standard grade 5...
Sorry,you never worked on a 1981 then,I promise it does have a ground cable to solenoid to frame,I’ve had it off at least 4 times,and as someone showed on here two wires hooks up here,ground wire and smaller wire,and I probably am tightening to much.will not tightened the next so much.
if it is a ground it is bolted to one of the ears mounting the solenoid to the starter nose. since the sol is bolted to the nose and nose is bolted to the engine it is pretty much superfluous. if any of the 4 studs peterbilt showed in post 4 are bolted to ground, the starter wes put in by an idiot. and it was the little R terminal that provides hotter spark when cranking on a 74 and earlier points distributor and the commection tang that the solenoid washer hits to send straight hot to the R terminal to feed the ignition coil melted off the first time the starter was fired. look at the 3rd pic. you will see the little spring steel terminal the hot washer hits. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHS...&gclsrc=aw.ds&
And definitely will get one,because it’s hell taking headers off tog even get to the starter.I will have it cranking tomorrow,we’ll scratch that,heading to Super Chevy show at the Rock,in Rockingham NC.
Not sure of year..but
do forget to remove battery cables prior to poking around
post up some pics!
this may help you whether you use original starter or a new one, including solenoid
Starter solenoid
