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Headlight cover paint problem

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Old Nov 13, 2022 | 11:21 AM
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Default Headlight cover paint problem

I purchased my car 9 years ago with zero miles a new paint job. Original color War Bonnet Yellow was replaced by current GM Victory Red 1 color. I’ve recently noticed “spidering” under the paint only on both headlight covers. I store the car at the body shop where I purchased it. The proprietor says it’s the aluminum metal that is causing the paint issue…and he named other current model cars that it happens to, usually within 2 years of factory paint.
Does anyone have a solution to alleviate the same thing reoccurring should I go ahead and have him fix the issue? All suggestions welcome….
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Old Nov 13, 2022 | 11:46 AM
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No..not normal.
what other models?
what aluminum?
pics?
I suspect proper preparation is the issue..or impact..
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Old Nov 13, 2022 | 04:40 PM
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How many zillion c3 vettes have been repainted with current (base clear, water-based, etc, etc, etc) that don't have that issue?
Something wrong with the prep, combination of prep and final paint
M

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Old Nov 13, 2022 | 08:28 PM
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uh, never seen the issue your painter described.
you are lucky the bad areas are easily dealt with
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Old Nov 14, 2022 | 04:38 AM
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I have to agree, Bullshit.
I too have a C3 Corvette that has been repainted, like 20 plus years ago. no issues with headlight doors.
poor prep is the only answer here.
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Old Nov 14, 2022 | 08:25 AM
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Painter BS
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Old Nov 14, 2022 | 12:17 PM
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So I’m hearing that the metal surface was not properly prepped for paint to adhere…?


Surface paint is not compromised…it is between paint and metal
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Old Nov 14, 2022 | 01:23 PM
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That looks like corrosion under the paint.
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Old Nov 14, 2022 | 04:32 PM
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tell him it is his paint job and he continues to be paid for the storage. effing fix it.
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Old Nov 14, 2022 | 08:21 PM
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Your condition is called fila form corrosion when moisture gets between alum and paint and begins to oxides and breaks the bond between paint and alum
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Old Nov 16, 2022 | 05:01 PM
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Although it may not be "normal", it does happen. Not sure why everyone was so quick to call BS. My car ('77) was painted in 2006. As you can see, the PS headlight was not properly prepped for panting. This started to happen about 2 yrs ago and I started to pick at it. I do have a plan though........


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Old Nov 16, 2022 | 10:22 PM
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Hi, the products you have shown will not last. The failure was most likely poor prep and poor product choices. The materials you need to do this are not cheap. The process to repair is pretty easy using 80 grit sand paper working your way up to 150 grit. Remove all the paint. Make sure you get the dark black spots off as that is deep corrosion. After you clean the part, you would use a 2 part epoxy this is what gives you your corrosion resistance. Next a 2 part urethane primer surfacer followed by a base clear system. I only use high end paint systems. When it comes to refinish materials, it's true you get what you pay for. The primer that came on all the aluminum parts back in the day was zinc chromate which was banned in the automotive world. I think it can be had in the aviation industry and not east to get. The chemical that made this so good was hexavalent chromium; a real unhealthy player. Look at the spray bombs that say zinc chromate primer, read the product sheet. You will see there is no hexavalent chromium in it and that is what made it effective. I hope this helps you. Feel free to hit me up if you have any more questions. DP
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Old Nov 17, 2022 | 07:43 AM
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Can the door covers be separated and anodized? Aluminum corrosion is a big problem. It seems the original primer was stripped from these covers.
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Old Nov 17, 2022 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by DR PAINT
Hi, the products you have shown will not last.
My plan is to not get the car repainted and spend a fortune on it like you said it will be. I will do my best with the prep and deal with the cards that I have been dealt. The alternative to the "rattle can" process is to leave it alone and watch it get worse. I have choose to take on this project for fun because I enjoy the challenge, and make it look just a little better. Its not a show car, just a money bucket that I will drive around and have fun with. Anything done, even at my limited level of painting expertise, will only be an improvement.
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Old Nov 17, 2022 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Prestige593
My plan is to not get the car repainted and spend a fortune on it like you said it will be. I will do my best with the prep and deal with the cards that I have been dealt. The alternative to the "rattle can" process is to leave it alone and watch it get worse. I have choose to take on this project for fun because I enjoy the challenge, and make it look just a little better. Its not a show car, just a money bucket that I will drive around and have fun with. Anything done, even at my limited level of painting expertise, will only be an improvement.
You can shoot two-part epoxy primer for a very small investment, or farm it out to be done. The headlight buckets can be removed. I don't know if the cover panels are riveted on or what. But if you send those out to be anodized, powder coated, or just primed with two-part epoxy, you are unlikely to have to do this again.
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Old Nov 17, 2022 | 08:20 AM
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Yes, you could anodize the covers, but you still have to go through the painting process. I personally would not
do this. I believe the high end paint systems would give you the performance you are looking for. Etch primers or wash primers were
outstanding products, but as I mentioned, all the good stuff that was in them is gone.
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