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I have a 1981 and want to lower the front a inch or so,and I have a 2011 camaro and lowered on front and back,so have several different length springs,and I know I can cut the old springs a little,but curious if my 2011 springs are the same diameter as these on my 1981,would prefer using my off camaro,since they already powdered coated.I think my old springs off my camaro length wise we’re a little over 13 inches tall,anyone know what’s the length on the corvette spring. Thanks
The corvette springs don't have that reduced diameter coil at the end, I don't think those will fit the pocket
M
Doesn't the 2011 Camaro have a strut (I believe the reduced coil was a strut thing ??)
Yea,but if it’s the correct diameter was thinking if I had cut any off I would cut the top off,but will probably just cutting my old ones,and blasting them and paint.
Yea,but if it’s the correct diameter was thinking if I had cut any off I would cut the top off,but will probably just cutting my old ones,and blasting them and paint.
Keep in mind, that if you want to do it properly, you need to remove equal amounts of the spring from each end, so that the spring will still properly "index" in the frame and the lower a-arm. For example, you want to remove 1/2 coil, you actually cut 1/4 of a coil from each end.
Keep in mind, that if you want to do it properly, you need to remove equal amounts of the spring from each end, so that the spring will still properly "index" in the frame and the lower a-arm. For example, you want to remove 1/2 coil, you actually cut 1/4 of a coil from each end.
I think there is a misunderstanding about this.......maybe original factory springs were exactly cut so that they "index" into the top hole in the frame AND into the drain hole in the lower control arm. But I can tell you that aftermarket coils, brand new out of the box, are not designed to do this. You have to index them in the top.....which is what the shop manuals and AIM says to do,....and the bottom coil ends wherever it ends. You don't get both. So IF you are cutting one to lower it......same thing....it doesn't matter. I am actually not sure even factory new springs indexed into both the top and bottom......someone will have to prove that to me with a document,...or insider information. I think the hole in the lower control arm would be better described as a drain hole so that water does not collect in the bottom.
I think there is a misunderstanding about this.......maybe original factory springs were exactly cut so that they "index" into the top hole in the frame AND into the drain hole in the lower control arm. But I can tell you that aftermarket coils, brand new out of the box, are not designed to do this. You have to index them in the top.....which is what the shop manuals and AIM says to do,....and the bottom coil ends wherever it ends. You don't get both. So IF you are cutting one to lower it......same thing....it doesn't matter. I am actually not sure even factory new springs indexed into both the top and bottom......someone will have to prove that to me with a document,...or insider information. I think the hole in the lower control arm would be better described as a drain hole so that water does not collect in the bottom.
A number of years ago, when replacing the springs on my wife's former C-3, I installed a pair of VB&P coils, and I wasn't happy with the ride height. I spoke with VB&P, and they said to remove 1/2 coil. I took an equal amount off each end, and they indexed in both the frame, as well as the lower a-arm......YMMV.
You are really only supposed to cut the bottom that sets in the A-arm pocket.......the top is wound and compressed flat at the top and goes into the frame receiver......you cut the top and you screw up the progressive rate of the first coil and it doesn't sit flat in the pocket any more......the bottom you cut then chamfer or flatten the leading edge so it doesn't dig intot he control arm.....the "drain hole" is actually the bottom coil locater.......
I cut the springs on my 69' Tri-Power car this way......one coil was 1.5" and it sat perfect afterward......in fact...it sat so well and the job correct that when it was nut and bolt restored in Florida.....they left the springs in it....just refinished them......
Look at the pic of a C3 coil spring and you will see what I am talking about.......
You are really only supposed to cut the bottom that sets in the A-arm pocket.......the top is wound and compressed flat at the top and goes into the frame receiver......you cut the top and you screw up the progressive rate of the first coil and it doesn't sit flat in the pocket any more......the bottom you cut then chamfer or flatten the leading edge so it doesn't dig intot he control arm.....the "drain hole" is actually the bottom coil locater.......
I cut the springs on my 69' Tri-Power car this way......one coil was 1.5" and it sat perfect afterward......in fact...it sat so well and the job correct that when it was nut and bolt restored in Florida.....they left the springs in it....just refinished them......
Look at the pic of a C3 coil spring and you will see what I am talking about.......
Jebby
Aftermarket MOOG and other coils are NOT progressive like factory springs....and they CERTAINLY are NOT wound to perfectly fit in the top hole and bottom hole......if that happens with one....its pure luck or coincedence.
Aftermarket MOOG and other coils are NOT progressive like factory springs....and they CERTAINLY are NOT wound to perfectly fit in the top hole and bottom hole......if that happens with one....its pure luck or coincedence.
Hold one in your hand and tell me I am wrong....You cannot reverse end to end....
One end is flat and one end has a bit of a tang to it.....the flat end is not truly progressive so to say but the first coil and a half is wound that way.....a bit tighter and flat across the profile....
Look at this pic and it is pretty obvious:
A lot of cars and trucks were like this......I cut coils on at least a half dozen S-10 pickups in the 90's....they were like the above too....
The recess in the lower control arm keeps the spring from rotating....
You only cut from the bottom.....the "tang" sticks out further....
Hold one in your hand and tell me I am wrong....You cannot reverse end to end....
One end is flat and one end has a bit of a tang to it.....the flat end is not truly progressive so to say but the first coil and a half is wound that way.....a bit tighter and flat across the profile....
Look at this pic and it is pretty obvious:
A lot of cars and trucks were like this......I cut coils on at least a half dozen S-10 pickups in the 90's....they were like the above too....
The recess in the lower control arm keeps the spring from rotating....
You only cut from the bottom.....the "tang" sticks out further....
Jebby
I don't see any difference.....and I see no top or bottom. When I put mine in the 77 and the 69, both ends were wound the same....so when I cut half coil off the 77 and lowered it.....it worked perfect. Indexed top of spring into sight hole in frame....wherever the bottom falls, it falls. I am not engineer.....so I could be wrong. It worked for me.
The factory springs clearly have tighter windings on one end....very obvious.....but I still don't see what it would matter which way they are installed. The weight is on the spring.....the progressive actions would function either way.
Front springs
