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That is pretty bad, I would be checking the car closely for other quality work.
The best rags are NOS ones and expect to pay $300+ for them. The current new rags are not as firm, some don't have shoulder bolts, some are not grounded, some have the D-Flat 180* off. Yours is ripped has to be changed, a coupling will work and I would use one over the new rags sold today.
Your box is probably not much better and adding grease isn't going to make up for worn or corroded parts.
That is pretty bad, I would be checking the car closely for other quality work.
The best rags are NOS ones and expect to pay $300+ for them. The current new rags are not as firm, some don't have shoulder bolts, some are not grounded, some have the D-Flat 180* off. Yours is ripped has to be changed, a coupling will work and I would use one over the new rags sold today.
Your box is probably not much better and adding grease isn't going to make up for worn or corroded parts.
300 bux for a RAG JOINT???? they gold plated or something?? 30 bux should be the price.....
300 bux for a RAG JOINT???? they gold plated or something?? 30 bux should be the price.....
well it’s worth noting the quality of the original is much better than what you can get today but I agree prices are high. GM discontinued them about 10 years ago and they were $55 at the time. The cheap ones will work but they are not as rigid or grounded
You might even consider replacing the rag joint with a u joint.
Many people are swapping over and you can get a top quality chrome moly u joint for under $100.00.
I purchased this one from Summit Racing to go between my oem steering box and Ididit steering column, but they do make the direct replacement to go between the oem steering box and oem steering column.
They are also available in different materials, polished and chrome if that’s what you want.
The only issue with the U-joints is that they do not dampen, or even permit, changes in length along the steering axis. The rag joint desigm takes this into account.
That said, I have Flaming River U-joints in both cars.
New pitman arm installed but now I cannot get the castle nut down far enough on the ball stud
to get the cotter pin in. Any advice on what might be causing this? I am concerned that if I try to wrench it any tighter it might break the nut or stud.
