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I just. purchased this 76'
Im excited to repair and drive this car.
What I've discovered so far
-80's rear bumper
-Interesting old school made in los Angeles centerline rims
-Exhaust leak
-Suspension causes, all over the road feeling
- Multiple leaks (of course)
- original radio works
- headlight actuators and wipers work!
- interior redone nicely a few years ago
- decent silver repaint over original silver
I want to enjoy this 76' as a driver my 71 vert had perfect paint and I was always worried about scratches etc.
Last edited by Greengear; Apr 30, 2023 at 11:01 AM.
Nice find! You’ll have fun with this. Check the date code on the tires. That all over the road feeling could be from old tires. My 77 was like that. Replaced the 12 yr old (2000 mile) Like new looking BFGs and the ride and handling was greatly improved..
in order to address all over the road, I replaced one side strut rod as one was already recently replaced, the second unistalled strut rod came with the car. I looked for source of play, found wasted rag joint and the empty power steering system instoduces play because of the control valve.
I looked into ordering a power steering refresh kit and did order a rag joint.
I also ordered exhaust manifold gaskets. I am going to try and sneak gaskets in without completely removing the manifolds using the 3 piece gasket set.
Stock manifolds on stock heads didn't even use gaskets. However with time perhaps not everything is flat anymore. Good luck with your sneek em in project. I would be concerned about port matching. But if your dealing with stock heads and stock exhaust manifolds. Probably not much of a concern.
Stock manifolds on stock heads didn't even use gaskets. However with time perhaps not everything is flat anymore. Good luck with your sneek em in project. I would be concerned about port matching. But if your dealing with stock heads and stock exhaust manifolds. Probably not much of a concern.
This car has all the spark plug wire routing parts and original hose clamps, smog stuff everything in place. Not that a 76' is exactly the year when all original is extremely important. Definitely has the factory no gaskets yet, slightly warped and now leaking situation.
I am sort of curious if backing out the bolts and sliding these gaskets into the gap is feasible. It struck me that these gaskets are designed for just that purpose when choosing which gasket to order by the photos. I was planning to hose down the gap with some type of spray to clean residue from the area experiencing the leak but I think just sliding the gaskets in will be good enough and avoid poring spray cleaner and residue past an open valve into a cylinder.
I had some of those gaskets. I put them on the heads with the heads on the bench. With some bolts just lightly threaded into the heads of course.
they blocked off the port about 1/4 inch at the top.
When they cut those slotted holes they didn't care about port alignment. I purchased better gaskets and glued than to the heads before installing the heads.
things like that not only bug me. But are clearly not good for performance.
As your car is all stock any drop in performance no matter how slight. Is certainly not a good thing.
Bottom line, removing those 6 bolts per manifold completely once you have them lossened up is nothing. The 3 nuts on the studs holding the pipe may be frozen and perhaps that's what is worrying you. Studs and long brass nuts are inexpensive.
I say pull those manifolds and clean everything up properly and fit the gaskets properly.
If it's worth fixing, it's worth fixing right!
If it's not worth fixing right. Throw it away.
I had some of those gaskets. I put them on the heads with the heads on the bench. With some bolts just lightly threaded into the heads of course.
they blocked off the port about 1/4 inch at the top.
When they cut those slotted holes they didn't care about port alignment. I purchased better gaskets and glued than to the heads before installing the heads.
things like that not only bug me. But are clearly not good for performance.
As your car is all stock any drop in performance no matter how slight. Is certainly not a good thing.
Bottom line, removing those 6 bolts per manifold completely once you have them lossened up is nothing. The 3 nuts on the studs holding the pipe may be frozen and perhaps that's what is worrying you. Studs and long brass nuts are inexpensive.
I say pull those manifolds and clean everything up properly and fit the gaskets properly.
If it's worth fixing, it's worth fixing right!
If it's not worth fixing right. Throw it away.
I did exactly that on a 77' a few years ago. One of the down pipe studs sheared off but I hit the manifold with a torch and it backed out. This time around I am going to try the pitstop style gasket install and see how it goes.
I held out for a silver car. Figured repaint is fine as long as it was silver under too.
may 77’ was red , then yellow and finally black when I bought it. Interesting layered effect on chips.
You should be soaking those manifold bolts three days in advance of removal. Obviously, a penetrant will not likely seep into the threads but you can saturate the bolt heads. PB Blaster is good with frozen exhaust fasteners.
Murphy's Law states that the last bolt will not come out. An old trick is to re-install the bolt next to it and torque it. Usually that will ease the stress on stubborn bolt.
And 6 point sockets grab better than 12.
Go slow. You sure don't want to snap one off in the head.
There is a video out there to help you rebuild your PS Control Valve. If the Ram leaks, just buy new.
Any time the PS system is opened up for repair, make sure you bleed the system.
Let the games begin.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; May 1, 2023 at 08:22 PM.
Those wheels aren't really that old, as far as Centerline wheels in general. The first Centerlines, the Auto Drag, came out in '71. I remember the Convo Pro(your wheels), so named for the convoluted rim design, came out some time in the mid 80s when I was in high school.
Those wheels aren't really that old, as far as Centerline wheels in general. The first Centerlines, the Auto Drag, came out in '71. I remember the Convo Pro(your wheels), so named for the convoluted rim design, came out some time in the mid 80s when I was in high school.
Thank you for the info on the wheels. I was wondering when the centerlines were made.
I’m going to hopefully buy these stock wheels today and I’ll probably put the centerlines for sale as they are cool but not quite what I’m after. I looked for ralleys locally but these stock aluminum wheels are to cheap to pass up at $450 asking price.
Summer project 76' vette
