Originally Posted by RubyRedMetallic

I already determined the new distributor does not have any vacuum adjustment. I have the lightest of the 3 sets of springs on the mechanical now. It hated the strongest, would hesitate alot, middle ones worked ok but had a slight hesitation at wot. Weakest work great so far. The mechanical also has extra bushings that limit how much advance it will make, and a lock out piece to eliminate it for Ignition boxes. It's an A TEAM pro billet ready to run distributor. I'll post a link so you know what I have. I did look at the vacuum pot and linkage, it looks like I could remove it and put an adjustable one on. I'll try to find one. I can reduce the mechanical though as stated. I'm gonna be honest, I'm second guessing myself on what the noise is. Why. Because even tho it's loud to me, it won't record. Under hood or in the cab, can't pick it up. The rattle never changes except disappearing at about 2000rpm. It never changes speed like a valve train rattle does. It's never changed at all after every single adjustment or change we try. Always the same. I'm starting to think it is the new exhaust. Compared to stock its huge and the long tube headers end right by my feet. Maybe I can just hear the valves open and close threw the headers. It's real throaty and loud. Deep resonance out the flowmaster mufflers. So much it vibrates the rear plastic pieces inside. It's nice but a bit much. Lol. I'm pretty sure it didn't ping until after I re did the entire underneath exhaust etc. Here's that link, I got the male cap tho, this is the female.
https://swperformanceparts.com/produ...red-female-cap

Originally Posted by lickahotskillet

Mechanical advance stops when the weights swing full out. When is determined by the strength of the spring and the length on the slot. RPM needed to achieve this varies mostly by the strength of the spring.
Leave the slot alone or may need more initial to achieve 36 total & end up with hard starting hot.
I'd still buy an adjustable vacuum advance and get the overall total you have of 57 down to 50.
I'll look up some over all total (combination of initial, mechanical, & vac) in some old manuals I have.
Again, leave the 36 degrees, vac disconnected. You will have to raise the speed when checking with the springs in place to see at what rpm 36 degrees is achieved & continue above that rpm to insure it's not more.

Originally Posted by Bikespace

A digital gun, like this one with an RPM readout, will make your life a lot easier.

You should be able to zip it up to 4000 RPM, and see no change in the timing past 3000 (and if it stops at 2000, that's still sub-optimal).

I'll second the adjustable vacuum advance, or buying the correct vacuum advance, or adding a vacuum advance limiter.

Originally Posted by Jebbysan

I second this.....can't live without mine.....
Amazon.com: BOSCH (FIX 7529 Digital Timing Light : Automotive

Jebby

Originally Posted by RubyRedMetallic

My timing gun has rpm and adjustable degrees. My issue was holding the carb at 3000 and handling the gun at same time. I'll redo the test with vacuum after I rig something up to hold the throttle at 3k whole I operate the gun. I was unable to add or remove degrees with one hand on carb, do had to stop adjust then try again. That's why I said my 57 degree is probably not totally accurate. I'll do again today with carb wired up to hold 3k.

Originally Posted by Jebbysan

So let off the throttle......look a your base number and add or subtract timing then rev it back up......what you add or subtract at idle is the same as what will be added or subtracted at 3000rpm......only two hands needed

Your biggest battle is seeing the timing mark as you have a long water pump late model cover and a short water pump....the long water pump allowed you to shoot the strobe between the water pump plate and timing cover......

Jebby

Originally Posted by RubyRedMetallic

My timing light has a feature to dial up or down the timing. I just leave it on 0 and look at timing mark on the degree marker. but that said the marker is right under the water pump and almost impossible to see. So i end up putting 8 degrees for example on the timing gun, then line the timing mark up on 0 since it’s the only visible mark. So I think my light has that option if it’s what I just described. Vaccum is not adjustable on this distributor. And I have it attached to the manifold vaccum because the metered one up to gets no vaccum at idle, and it was hard to get it to idle and stay there. It would change idle speeds at random. Moving to the manifold vaccum fixed that. Seems the more I retard it the better it runs, mostly at top end. seems advanced gives you low end power, retarded top end. But my car sure likes the retarded better. Advanced pings alot.

Originally Posted by kossuth

Check your balancer. It may be slipped or the timing marker is off. Check your tdc with a piston stop on the number 1. If you don’t know how to do this say so. Myself or somebody else can get you up to speed. Need to confirm your marks first.

Originally Posted by troporobo

If Seafoam in the tank helped, wait until you spray a whole can down the carb. You’ll likely get a ton of white smoke and it may take 10 minutes total, but it does work to decarbonize the top end and (in my case) eliminate run-on dieseling.

Originally Posted by RubyRedMetallic

I have a can for the carb too. But I'm running this second tank threw, then checking the plugs for carbon, then I'll spray it down. Might put a can in the oil too. The miracle cure. Lol