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Hello guys. New here and need some information.
Just bought a bushing set from Hyperflex and the trailing arm bushing does not fit. Seems like maybe some modifications have been made but there is a flexible joint in the arm. Any information would be much appreciated. Is this a original bushing seat? Also the original bolt does not fit through the bushing shield plates.
That is a mess. Someone modified it and welded in a sleeve with poly bushings or maybe those are just rubber sleeves? they are junk. Do not use your new poly bushings because those are junk.
At this point buy new USA Made- NOT Chinese made arms. You have to ask sellers who makes them, most buy and resell them. I can mention names and only get in trouble, so you have to do some homework. The new USA Arms run about $200 each the last I checked. They are powder coated, have rubber bushings installed, new spring cup, and new guide. They are better than original arms. To get your arms in that condition, if they are not bent or rotted will cost you more and it's not worth it. Prices vary as there is still some competition left but that is drying up by the day with consolidation.
Next question, if you are into the arms, did you setup new bearings? Again, same thing applies.
That is a mess. Someone modified it and welded in a sleeve with poly bushings or maybe those are just rubber sleeves? they are junk. Do not use your new poly bushings because those are junk.
At this point buy new USA Made- NOT Chinese made arms. You have to ask sellers who makes them, most buy and resell them. I can mention names and only get in trouble, so you have to do some homework. The new USA Arms run about $200 each the last I checked. They are powder coated, have rubber bushings installed, new spring cup, and new guide. They are better than original arms. To get your arms in that condition, if they are not bent or rotted will cost you more and it's not worth it. Prices vary as there is still some competition left but that is drying up by the day with consolidation.
Next question, if you are into the arms, did you setup new bearings? Again, same thing applies.
Damn it. Was hoping i would get this baby on the road this summer. The problem with buying parts is that I live in Iceland and shipping and taxes add up in money and time. Suppose I will have to just go for a full back end restoration over the winter (including bearings) and do my burnouts next year. Thank you for your time and help. Better just focus on the Bronco engine swap this summer. Going to need a 4x4 when winter hits.
Damn it. Was hoping i would get this baby on the road this summer. The problem with buying parts is that I live in Iceland and shipping and taxes add up in money and time. Suppose I will have to just go for a full back end restoration over the winter (including bearings) and do my burnouts next year. Thank you for your time and help. Better just focus on the Bronco engine swap this summer. Going to need a 4x4 when winter hits.
Iceland, one place I haven't shipped to yet. There can't be many vettes there and that's probably why you have a hacked-up arm. It's better to learn about the issues and plan out your work, than to rush it. Go through both arms and check the axles and other parts. The caliper brackets get bent by using the tool shown in the manuals and that is sold everywhere. Supports are date coded so you can see if they are original to the car. Look at the D-Flat in the legs, it should be sharp, not rounded over. The bearings should not be slip fit, the axles should not be slip fit, the splines should be straight. The axle threads sharp and not hammered over and mushroomed. If there is a chamfer on the end of the axle someone already hammered the hell out of it.
The bright side, you're going to have a nice car that few there have when you're done.
Iceland, one place I haven't shipped to yet. There can't be many vettes there and that's probably why you have a hacked-up arm. It's better to learn about the issues and plan out your work, than to rush it. Go through both arms and check the axles and other parts. The caliper brackets get bent by using the tool shown in the manuals and that is sold everywhere. Supports are date coded so you can see if they are original to the car. Look at the D-Flat in the legs, it should be sharp, not rounded over. The bearings should not be slip fit, the axles should not be slip fit, the splines should be straight. The axle threads sharp and not hammered over and mushroomed. If there is a chamfer on the end of the axle someone already hammered the hell out of it.
The bright side, you're going to have a nice car that few there have when you're done.
I see why you would think that but this car has not been driven since it left new york and was imported to Denmark in 2017. So someone did a hack job within miles of new parts. Sad really. No respect for automotive history. So far I have counted 11 c3 vettes here. Might be handful more but not many. Tight nit community. Will disassemble the whole back end before ordering anything this time. Thought this would take the weekend. Jokes on me.
I see why you would think that but this car has not been driven since it left new york and was imported to Denmark in 2017. So someone did a hack job within miles of new parts. Sad really. No respect for automotive history. So far I have counted 11 c3 vettes here. Might be handful more but not many. Tight nit community. Will disassemble the whole back end before ordering anything this time. Thought this would take the weekend. Jokes on me.
Sorry to hear that and yes I agree it was probably poor work to flip the car. All too common. I just rebuilt arms that were supposed to be rebuilt when the car was restored. All that was done was the parking brakes were replaced, the original bearings were still in the arms and bad.
I did a set of those a couple of months ago, they're poly too. I had to make a fixture to keep the arm centered between the bushing and the axle. The contact point is too small, so I had to machine caps. They came out fine but it wouldn't be my go-to part.
I did a set of those a couple of months ago, they're poly too. I had to make a fixture to keep the arm centered between the bushing and the axle. The contact point is too small, so I had to machine caps. They came out fine but it wouldn't be my go-to part.
Do I want that kind of flexibility in my trailing arm?
The bushings he has are regular poly bushings I think. Not meant for a Johnny joint. It looks like the center ball is still on the arm. It much be an early version of the joint. I think new ones are like this.
I'm not convinced you need anything. The set up that came out of it looks far superior to all the other options. The spherical bearing in the arm looks good, probably didn't have any rubber type material when installed originally. What am I missing here? I would reassemble it and if there is no slack on the bolt, motor on! Grease it once a year, best set up I've seen.
Since you're on an island with not a lot of Corvette resources- if anything, you might be able to use those arms. I would confirm they are no bent or rotted first. Then look over the bushing. If you were in the states and not having inspected the arms I would still go for the new USA made ones with rubber bushings.
I would check the bushings for binding and if they're good I would look at machining up a larger face diameter set of inserts. Look at these bushings, something like this. The Johnny Joint is a sphere in a poly bushing set. Finding a machine shop in Iceland I expect would be easier than corvette parts. It might just work for you, at least it's worth the time and maybe get some driving in. If you don't like them, go back to replacing them, just don't use poly.
Those look like the Herb Adams Bearings I installed back in the early 80's. The Rubber Doughnuts on the sides is probably just to keep the dirt out. They work great on the Track but are a bit ex stream on the Street. You get real good at making lane changes on the Highways not hitting the little bumps marking the lanes. Cause if you do it will shake your fillings loose.
trailing arm bushing problem
