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I hold like to replace the diff pinon flange on my 1978 (3.08) diff due to leaks,
already replaced the seal and needed to add special speedy sleeve to the yoke (groves found) , but still no luck, let the unit sit yoke down for 24 hrs and no leak , but after driving 25 miles and letting it sit saw leaks again.
Did you leave a 1/8” gap between the seal and the housing? Common mistake to pound the seal in flush. Also, what part number seal did you use? I always use a SKF 17190. Finally, did you apply sealant to the splines as well as the OD of the seal?
Did you leave a 1/8” gap between the seal and the housing? Common mistake to pound the seal in flush. Also, what part number seal did you use? I always use a SKF 17190. Finally, did you apply sealant to the splines as well as the OD of the seal?
I have a very clean Original GM one left over:
1330 u-joints 3.625" wide off my 72. Is that the size you need?
I just took pics. I cleaned it in evaporust a while back, and painted it. The seal area has a line that I can just barely see, but I can not feel anything there at all. I have not touched the seal area with any kind of abrasive at all. You may wish to polish it up a little bit before use.
Let me know if your interested.
Last edited by leigh1322; Jul 5, 2023 at 06:01 PM.
Wow you dug my old thread out of the archives.
Rarely do you have to replace a pinion yoke for leaking. Not saying it's not possible but I would be looking at the sleeve location and spline seal as possible causes.
Wow you dug my old thread out of the archives.
Rarely do you have to replace a pinion yoke for leaking. Not saying it's not possible but I would be looking at the sleeve location and spline seal as possible causes.
When I pulled off the yoke There was a groove at the seal location, so I added a speedy sleeve, replaced seal. Let it sit for 24 hrs with oil at the seal end. Didn't leak until I installed and drove the car.
When the seal is installed into the diff (tapped in), do you apply any sealant after, where the seal and the housing meet. Your instructions talked about adding sealant to OD.. " let the RTV setup on the seal OD" not sure what this was pointing to ?
I have a very clean Original GM one left over:
1330 u-joints 3.625" wide off my 72. Is that the size you need?
I just took pics. I cleaned it in evaporust a while back, and painted it. The seal area has a line that I can just barely see, but I can not feel anything there at all. I have not touched the seal area with any kind of abrasive at all. You may wish to polish it up a little bit before use.
Let me know if your interested.
Thanks I will need to check, mine is a 1978 original diff.
Looks like 69-82 C3s all used the same pinion yoke, with 1330 u-joints.
This is a 1330 u-joint one.
The earlier cars used 1310 u-joints.
I see aftermarket Yukon or Motive brand yokes avail for around 110-125.
What I have is a 50 year old GM original that is in very good shape.
How's $75 shipped sound?
I am just glad it can go to good use.
I would have no problem using a speedi-sleeve though, BTDT.
I would investigate what brand seal was used, as well as presence/type of sealer on the splines.
Gary Ramadei's advice on all the specifics on how to measure the in-lb TQ, and re-do it, along with the correct sealers, should do the trick for you.
But if you want to change the pinion yoke as well, I don't blame you either.
Not a job I would want to do twice.
Are you going to pull it so you can check for leakage? Or do it in the car?
I hold like to replace the diff pinon flange on my 1978 (3.08) diff due to leaks,
already replaced the seal and needed to add special speedy sleeve to the yoke (groves found) , but still no luck, let the unit sit yoke down for 24 hrs and no leak , but after driving 25 miles and letting it sit saw leaks again.
Where is a good place to find this part (OEM Diff flange for 78 corvette) what one without a speedy sleeve.
So I didn't replace any parts, Cleaned up the yoke (thread area) cleaned up the pinon threads. Followed the thread I found, re did the #2 sealant on the yoke ( as per thread included ) this time let it dry for 3-4 days . also set pinon nut for 10-12 inch lbs rotation drag. Then check seal by filling and position pinon down . Dry after 48 hours. Re installed in car. Driven for 100km. Still dry.
I will see if things change. But the thread is very very good procedure to follow.
So I didn't replace any parts, Cleaned up the yoke (thread area) cleaned up the pinon threads. Followed the thread I found, re did the #2 sealant on the yoke ( as per thread included ) this time let it dry for 3-4 days . also set pinon nut for 10-12 inch lbs rotation drag. Then check seal by filling and position pinon down . Dry after 48 hours. Re installed in car. Driven for 100km. Still dry.
I will see if things change. But the thread is very very good procedure to follow.
Ok I would like to provide an update. After about 200km, it started leaking again.