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Did you notice the belt on the compressor, it is a cheap cogged belt . You need a solid belt with no cogs or teeth. The belt grabs the sides of the pulley. Half the area of the belt is missing with a cogged or toothed belt. This might be one of your problems, (not enough belt area around the pulley) Also when the system warms up is when you get the slippage also indicating there is moisture in the system and/or overcharge. you may also have too much oil in the system. TRy removing some refrigerant and see if the high side comes down. 325# is too high. Compressor is probably good if it can deliver 325# of pressure. And one more thing the belt riding on the water pump pulley is crooked. Not really a show stopper but should be better aligned. The belt riding on the comp. looks perfect. Try re-shimming the compressor to get rid of the water pump pulley mis-alignment. Had a similar situation like this but with a POA valve/A6 Comp. Turned out it was over-charged and too much oil, only I damaged the reed valves by sending liquid refrigerant back to the Comp. When this happens, it's game over. Time for a new Comp. Luckily this hasn't happened yet for you.
Did you notice the belt on the compressor, it is a cheap cogged belt . You need a solid belt with no cogs or teeth. The belt grabs the sides of the pulley. Half the area of the belt is missing with a cogged or toothed belt. This might be one of your problems, (not enough belt area around the pulley) Also when the system warms up is when you get the slippage also indicating there is moisture in the system and/or overcharge. you may also have too much oil in the system. TRy removing some refrigerant and see if the high side comes down. 325# is too high. Compressor is probably good if it can deliver 325# of pressure. And one more thing the belt riding on the water pump pulley is crooked. Not really a show stopper but should be better aligned. The belt riding on the comp. looks perfect. Try re-shimming the compressor to get rid of the water pump pulley mis-alignment. Had a similar situation like this but with a POA valve/A6 Comp. Turned out it was over-charged and too much oil, only I damaged the reed valves by sending liquid refrigerant back to the Comp. When this happens, it's game over. Time for a new Comp. Luckily this hasn't happened yet for you.
So funny enough, it is a solid belt. One of the first things i did when all this started was ditch the cheap cogged belt and get a nice thick solid belt, just like you suggested.
Its definitely not overcharged, I tried half the listed poundage, adding a little at a time up and down, and no matter what charge im at, it locks.
Current theory is maybe too much oil, like you mentioned. Gonna remove the compressor again and remove some oil and see if it improves.
So funny enough, it is a solid belt. One of the first things i did when all this started was ditch the cheap cogged belt and get a nice thick solid belt, just like you suggested.
Its definitely not overcharged, I tried half the listed poundage, adding a little at a time up and down, and no matter what charge im at, it locks.
Current theory is maybe too much oil, like you mentioned. Gonna remove the compressor again and remove some oil and see if it improves.
Didn't see the solid belt, but that's good. So now we're down to : too much oil?, clogged condenser on either the fin side or the tube side, too much oil will reduce the heat transfer rate of the condenser. And a reduced airflow thru the condenser will do the same too. How's the airflow from the fan, with the fan clutch fully engaged it should be literally roaring. The more and more I think about this; it points to too much oil, provided your have good airflow thru the condenser and the condenser is not blocked with debris, dirt, etc. The condenser is just not rejecting the heat fast enough, too much oil can slow down this transfer or an internally clogged condenser. One more check, Are the gauge lines, at the fittings, from your A/C gauge set covered in oil when you remove them from the A/C system? There should be some oil mist but not dripping when they are disconnected. This would be another indication of too much oil.
Didn't see the solid belt, but that's good. So now we're down to : too much oil?, clogged condenser on either the fin side or the tube side, too much oil will reduce the heat transfer rate of the condenser. And a reduced airflow thru the condenser will do the same too. How's the airflow from the fan, with the fan clutch fully engaged it should be literally roaring. The more and more I think about this; it points to too much oil, provided your have good airflow thru the condenser and the condenser is not blocked with debris, dirt, etc. The condenser is just not rejecting the heat fast enough, too much oil can slow down this transfer or an internally clogged condenser. One more check, Are the gauge lines, at the fittings, from your A/C gauge set covered in oil when you remove them from the A/C system? There should be some oil mist but not dripping when they are disconnected. This would be another indication of too much oil.
As we work through this, Im starting to think this same thing, too much oil. Fan airflow is good, condensor is not blocked externally, and i blew through it internally. No oil dripping when i disconnect, that ive noticed.
So let me as you, and the forum, this: What is the proper oil servicing procedure for this system?
Assuming i open the system up, clean all the oil out, including out of the compressor, and everything is empty.
Before, i put 10.5 oz into the belly of the compressor through the drain hole, but some things im reading now suggest more like 6 oz need to go in. Some also recommend filling the compressor through the suction side line. And should any be in the VIR? Evaporator? And im out of ester oil, should i use mineral this time?
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
first you can check the oil level of the AC system without opening it up, https://www.es-refrigerants.com/prod...ck/details.asp
I've used these to validate the oil level in automotive and home systems.
When servicing the system a total cleanup would require the major components be pulled and flushed then oil added to each. The compressor requires the recommended amount per the manufacture, the condenser 1 ounce, evaporator 2 ounces and the accumulator/dryer/VIR 2 ounces.
adding oil to the compressor can be done either through the drain port (most don't have one) or the suction port but always turn the compressor by hand at least 10 or so rounds prior to engaging the clutch.
If you decide to remove/flush all oil from the system and refill then I would suggest going with mineral oil if staying with r12. Typically ester oil is used when converting an r12 system to 134a,
If you are going to flush the system, then get a new desiccant. Flush with the recommended solvent. Use 525 viscosity mineral oil. And the drain plug on the compressor is not really a drain but a level indicator do not fill oil past this plug level. As 77 said above the oil quantities for various components is correct. Unlike other compressors, the Axial -6 has it's own oiling system complete with sump, pump and screened pick-up. It will circulate lots of oil. A robust compressor made for heavy duty use. Also there are flush canisters to remove the oil from the system and are powered by a compressed air (CA) line. Just add the solvent to the canister, tighten the top and connect your CA line, it comes with a blow gun handle to insert into the open lines. Gotta run for now!
Well I just did my a/c , but I converted to new gas with the kit that has a new dryer and the valve on the outside instead of the problematical internal stock one. My belt would slip at hwy speeds. Upon research I discovered there are 2 belts. One for normal motor, one for the high output motor which is shorter. I switched to that and it was tight enough it doesn't slip. But had to pull valve cover to get belt on as pump would hit it and not move far enough to get belt on. But of a pain. Alternator was same. Also, make sure the pump is running all the time. Should never turn off when a/c is on. If it does , it's low on gas. I would rev motor by hand all the way up and pump was shutting of at high rpm, so added a bit at a time until it stopped, now stays on all the time . I'd change that stock drier , there problematic and get the short belt for high output motor.
first you can check the oil level of the AC system without opening it up, https://www.es-refrigerants.com/prod...ck/details.asp
I've used these to validate the oil level in automotive and home systems.
When servicing the system a total cleanup would require the major components be pulled and flushed then oil added to each. The compressor requires the recommended amount per the manufacture, the condenser 1 ounce, evaporator 2 ounces and the accumulator/dryer/VIR 2 ounces.
adding oil to the compressor can be done either through the drain port (most don't have one) or the suction port but always turn the compressor by hand at least 10 or so rounds prior to engaging the clutch.
If you decide to remove/flush all oil from the system and refill then I would suggest going with mineral oil if staying with r12. Typically ester oil is used when converting an r12 system to 134a,
Neal
Thats a neat little tool that i didnt know existed.
I removed the compressor (again) and emptied it. This one does have a drain port. I got about 4 oz out, so around 6 oz has made its way around the system. I pulled the back cover off and checked the piston tops to make sure it wasnt hydrolocking. Everything looked normal, and i can run the compressor around with the nut. Its tight but no binding.
I ordered mineral oil and will be going back with that this time.
If you are going to flush the system, then get a new desiccant. Flush with the recommended solvent. Use 525 viscosity mineral oil. And the drain plug on the compressor is not really a drain but a level indicator do not fill oil past this plug level. As 77 said above the oil quantities for various components is correct. Unlike other compressors, the Axial -6 has it's own oiling system complete with sump, pump and screened pick-up. It will circulate lots of oil. A robust compressor made for heavy duty use. Also there are flush canisters to remove the oil from the system and are powered by a compressed air (CA) line. Just add the solvent to the canister, tighten the top and connect your CA line, it comes with a blow gun handle to insert into the open lines. Gotta run for now!
Ive got the solvent and im gonna rent a flusher from the parts store. Gonna get it all clean and serviced back up with 525 mineral. The compressor/refrigerant will push oil around the system correct? So if i service the components with the correct oil amounts, this oil will move around as the system runs, am i understand this right?
Ive got the solvent and im gonna rent a flusher from the parts store. Gonna get it all clean and serviced back up with 525 mineral. The compressor/refrigerant will push oil around the system correct? So if i service the components with the correct oil amounts, this oil will move around as the system runs, am i understand this right?
The oil is in constant circulation throughout the system. Do not flush the compressor, just drain it and usually, each component is flushed separately. I would not try to flush the whole system at once, do the evap/ VIR, the condenser, and the lines individually. You will need at least 3 quarts of solvent. Oil fill for the A6 should be: add oil up to the level of the sump plug. Initially add 6 Oz. oil thru the suction line of the A6. Rotate the clutch in the direction of rotation, this will get the oil into the sump. Wait about twenty minutes for the oil to drain to the sump and then check the level by opening the sump plug and see if any oil drips out if it doesn't drip out, add 2 Oz. of oil and repeat until oil just starts to flow out the plug opening. Once oil starts to drip out let it finish dripping out then tighten the plug. Compressor oil level should be checked in the installed position on the car. (approximate this on the bench) After flushed ,oil filled and assembled ; evacuate the system down to 30.5" Hg. followed by a Nitrogen purge and evacuate again. This is a lot of work, eh?
The oil is in constant circulation throughout the system. Do not flush the compressor, just drain it and usually, each component is flushed separately. I would not try to flush the whole system at once, do the evap/ VIR, the condenser, and the lines individually. You will need at least 3 quarts of solvent. Oil fill for the A6 should be: add oil up to the level of the sump plug. Initially add 6 Oz. oil thru the suction line of the A6. Rotate the clutch in the direction of rotation, this will get the oil into the sump. Wait about twenty minutes for the oil to drain to the sump and then check the level by opening the sump plug and see if any oil drips out if it doesn't drip out, add 2 Oz. of oil and repeat until oil just starts to flow out the plug opening. Once oil starts to drip out let it finish dripping out then tighten the plug. Compressor oil level should be checked in the installed position on the car. (approximate this on the bench) After flushed ,oil filled and assembled ; evacuate the system down to 30.5" Hg. followed by a Nitrogen purge and evacuate again. This is a lot of work, eh?
Nice! This is the best description of how exactly to service the A6 that ive found by far. Just what ive been looking for, thank you.
Yes its a lot of work. Im just about sick of air conditioning work for sure. But its gonna be worth it, cruising in comfort.
