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Classic 2-3 cross......use to happen to me in my 66' when I would powershift 2-3 on the stock shifter.......I would get under car and pop one of the ears back into position....can't remember which one but I believe it was the back one.....with a pair of Channel Locks.....
Kept the Channel Locks in the car for 4 years after that.......I tried adjusting but didn't help......I believe the pivots at the shifter were getting worn.....
Jebby
Thanks. I surely dont want to have to use channel locks to fix this every time it happens. I will buy new parts if I havet to.
I've had a Hurst Competition Plus shifter on my '71 since 1976 and it has always performed flawlessly.. Also had one on two different 1964 GTO's with the same results. I'm replacing the Muncie with a Tremec TKX 5 speed so the Hurst is no longer usable. I was going to try to sell it on the forum but if you are at all interested in an old one for a good price that reflects it age, let me know.
I've had a Hurst Competition Plus shifter on my '71 since 1976 and it has always performed flawlessly.. Also had one on two different 1964 GTO's with the same results. I'm replacing the Muncie with a Tremec TKX 5 speed so the Hurst is no longer usable. I was going to try to sell it on the forum but if you are at all interested in an old one for a good price that reflects it age, let me know.
Classic 2-3 cross......use to happen to me in my 66' when I would powershift 2-3 on the stock shifter.......
Jebby
He could also be hung up in 1st & reverse. The 3-4 arm(closest to bellhousing) looks straight up. OP, use a Cresent Wrench or Channel Lock pliers to get the 1-2 arm straight up. You will feel it click into place. It's the middle arm, BTW. You may then be in reverse only. Move the shifter to reverse and see if it will come out. And please don't corners on supporting the car while jacked up.
These hangups are mostly caused by being aggressive with the shifter. No need asking if you were but keep in mind. Let us know your progress.
Before I put in an automatic I had swapped over to a Richmond ROD with a LONG shifter. The quality and construction of the LONG Shifter is MUCH SUPERIOR to the stock muncie shifter that came with my 68. And I had refurbished and tightened it and all that crap.
Somebody mentioned a Hurst Shifter and that may be your answer.... I *think* they bolt onto the tranny instead of the frame, which is smarter, especially when the fram is solid and the tranny can wiggle some......
You should learn how to tweak this because it can happen at any time and you don't want to be waiting for a tow to a repair shop if it does happen.
He could also be hung up in 1st & reverse. The 3-4 arm(closest to bellhousing) looks straight up. OP, use a Cresent Wrench or Channel Lock pliers to get the 1-2 arm straight up. You will feel it click into place. It's the middle arm, BTW. You may then be in reverse only. Move the shifter to reverse and see if it will come out. And please don't corners on supporting the car while jacked up.
These hangups are mostly caused by being aggressive with the shifter. No need asking if you were but keep in mind. Let us know your progress.
the shifter will go into reverse but car won’t budge. If I pull it down (which normally is second) it will move forward. Can’t shift into first, third or fourth. Neutral used to be real loose. Now it’s stiff. Not even sure if it’s really neutral. I can move the stick back and forth from reverse to what appears to be second. If I move towards neutral it binds and locks up. I was not ripping the gears. Normal driving and parked it. You lost me on the “please don’t corners” part. Thanks.
Before I put in an automatic I had swapped over to a Richmond ROD with a LONG shifter. The quality and construction of the LONG Shifter is MUCH SUPERIOR to the stock muncie shifter that came with my 68. And I had refurbished and tightened it and all that crap.
Somebody mentioned a Hurst Shifter and that may be your answer.... I *think* they bolt onto the tranny instead of the frame, which is smarter, especially when the fram is solid and the tranny can wiggle some......
You should learn how to tweak this because it can happen at any time and you don't want to be waiting for a tow to a repair shop if it does happen.
I will most likely haul it somewhere to fix it with perhaps new linkage. It’s all original parts. Been driving it for 5 years and no issues until now. I can’t really work on stuff due to permanent neck issues and I don’t have a lift which would help a lot. It was all I could do to take the pics. Thanks.
The Hurst Competition Plus shifter mounts to the case extension of the Muncie using the same bolt holes as the stock shifter. No modifications are necessary and the installation and adjustment are seamless. Much much more reliable that stock OEM.
Sorry about the neck. That sucks. At least you can drive it which is a lot more fun than working on it. If you have it replaced I'd still recommend the Hurst.
The Hurst Competition Plus shifter mounts to the case extension of the Muncie using the same bolt holes as the stock shifter. No modifications are necessary and the installation and adjustment are seamless. Much much more reliable that stock OEM.
Even if I switch to a hurst is that ultimately going to solve and fix the issue? The linkages may be worn out. I don’t know.
Sorry about the neck. That sucks. At least you can drive it which is a lot more fun than working on it. If you have it replaced I'd still recommend the Hurst.
That sucker is around 500 bucks unless I’m looking at the wrong one. Lol.
I don't know if your neck issues prevent you from sitting at a table to rebuild a shifter but if you can, rebuilding a Hurst and having someone else install it could be a way to go for a lot less than the cost of a new one.
I've had a Hurst Competition Plus shifter on my '71 since 1976 and it has always performed flawlessly.. Also had one on two different 1964 GTO's with the same results. I'm replacing the Muncie with a Tremec TKX 5 speed so the Hurst is no longer usable. I was going to try to sell it on the forum but if you are at all interested in an old one for a good price that reflects it age, let me know.
If 73Tstinger isn't interested in your shifter I might be if you decide to sell depending on price & condition
Thanks
Oh man.... bummer. If I lived within a few miles of you I'd go free it up for you.... SO--- once you free it up just be careful selecting gears until you get it replaced. It can get back into this condition really easily once it gets wobbly.
I have my muncie in the garage if you even want to try I'll go take a picture of where the selector shafts are supposed to be.... if you're gonna try it just let me know.
Originally Posted by 7T3stinger
I will most likely haul it somewhere to fix it with perhaps new linkage. It’s all original parts. Been driving it for 5 years and no issues until now. I can’t really work on stuff due to permanent neck issues and I don’t have a lift which would help a lot. It was all I could do to take the pics. Thanks.
Oh man.... bummer. If I lived within a few miles of you I'd go free it up for you.... SO--- once you free it up just be careful selecting gears until you get it replaced. It can get back into this condition really easily once it gets wobbly.
I have my muncie in the garage if you even want to try I'll go take a picture of where the selector shafts are supposed to be.... if you're gonna try it just let me know.
so when you say “get it replaced” are you saying the transmission needs to be replaced?