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Oh man.... bummer. If I lived within a few miles of you I'd go free it up for you.... SO--- once you free it up just be careful selecting gears until you get it replaced. It can get back into this condition really easily once it gets wobbly.
I have my muncie in the garage if you even want to try I'll go take a picture of where the selector shafts are supposed to be.... if you're gonna try it just let me know.
7T3stinger
Here you go. I volunteered so I got off my *** and went and got the picture I manipulated the levers and turned the input shaft to ensure they are shown in "neutral". I marked them with "whiteout" to show the vertical position.
Originally Posted by 7T3stinger
yes take me a pic. Thanks
Last edited by carriljc; Jul 15, 2023 at 10:19 PM.
7T3stinger
Here you go. I volunteered to I got my *** and went and got the picture I manipulated the levers and turned the input shaft to ensure they are shown in "neutral". I marked them with "whiteout" to show the vertical position.
okay. Thanks. My second one from the front appears to be towards the rear. Front one is vertical. And rear one is towards the rear. So how do you get them vertical? They won’t move.
Last edited by 7T3stinger; Jul 15, 2023 at 09:57 PM.
Just use some channel-locks as someone mentioned in an earlier thread. If you have room you can even use a Crescent-wrench.... Grab ahold of it move it. Nothing terribly special. Use Jack-Stands and be careful out there.... Block the wheels so it doesn't roll when it is placed it in Neutral.
If you get the 2nd lever vertical, you should then be able to get back in the drivers seat and move the lever out of REVERSE---- try it. Less chance of it rolling onto your noggin.
Just use some channel-locks as someone mentioned in an earlier thread. If you have room you can even use a Crescent-wrench.... Grab ahold of it move it. Nothing terribly special. Use Jack-Stands and be careful out there.... Block the wheels so it doesn't roll when it is placed it in Neutral.
If you get the 2nd lever vertical, you should then be able to get back in the drivers seat and move the lever out of REVERSE---- try it. Less chance of it rolling onto your noggin.
will try today. Just so you know, I can move the shift stick out of reverse all ready.
7T3stinger
If I still was using the Muncie I'd look into this offer. Might be a wiser course of action than rebuilding that Muncie shifter that bolts onto the crossmember. Yeah, I'm not one of them corvette purists (NTTAWWT) and I modify things as I see fit.
Originally Posted by C3-LT1
I've had a Hurst Competition Plus shifter on my '71 since 1976 and it has always performed flawlessly.. Also had one on two different 1964 GTO's with the same results. I'm replacing the Muncie with a Tremec TKX 5 speed so the Hurst is no longer usable. I was going to try to sell it on the forum but if you are at all interested in an old one for a good price that reflects it age, let me know.
Before I put in an automatic I had swapped over to a Richmond ROD with a LONG shifter. The quality and construction of the LONG Shifter is MUCH SUPERIOR to the stock muncie shifter that came with my 68. And I had refurbished and tightened it and all that crap.
Somebody mentioned a Hurst Shifter and that may be your answer.... I *think* they bolt onto the tranny instead of the frame, which is smarter, especially when the fram is solid and the tranny can wiggle some......
You should learn how to tweak this because it can happen at any time and you don't want to be waiting for a tow to a repair shop if it does happen.
I bought a Long Shifter for my Super T10. It's a world of difference shifting with a good quality solid trans mounted shifter, but a minor caveat to the Long is that the stock console trim plate that the shifter goes through will no longer fit.
That's interesting. I had a Long Shifter (wonderful, never any problems) when I had the Richmond 6-speed installed. It worked just fine with the console shift plate. Wondering what the difference could have been?
Originally Posted by taint
I bought a Long Shifter for my Super T10. It's a world of difference shifting with a good quality solid trans mounted shifter, but a minor caveat to the Long is that the stock console trim plate that the shifter goes through will no longer fit.
He could also be hung up in 1st & reverse. The 3-4 arm(closest to bellhousing) looks straight up. OP, use a Cresent Wrench or Channel Lock pliers to get the 1-2 arm straight up. You will feel it click into place. It's the middle arm, BTW. You may then be in reverse only. Move the shifter to reverse and see if it will come out. And please don't corners on supporting the car while jacked up.
These hangups are mostly caused by being aggressive with the shifter. No need asking if you were but keep in mind. Let us know your progress.
okay so I move both levers straight up and the reverse arm in forward position. Hopped in and went through the gears (engine off) with no issues. Serial times. Someone had mention the bolts may be loose but I have tried to tighten and they won’t budge. There is a little play in those two bolts but very little. So I’m not sure why they won’t tighten. Also what’s going to keep this from happening again. May be time for a new shifter. Thanks for you help.
Good job. Told ya. Easy peasy. Be gentle until you get that replacement shifter (see offer above from other member)--- since it is wobbly you could end up in this situation again.
It's just a shitty design to bolt the shifter assembly to the frame crossmember instead of the tranny.... not to mention that comparing that Muncie shifter to a Long shifter you will note how there was an "economy" factor....
I had beefed my muncie shifter up and made it nice and snug and everything was tight...it would still occasionally lock up..... especially if I abused it.
Originally Posted by 7T3stinger
okay so I move both levers straight up and the reverse arm in forward position. Hopped in and went through the gears (engine off) with no issues. Serial times. Someone had mention the bolts may be loose but I have tried to tighten and they won’t budge. There is a little play in those two bolts but very little. So I’m not sure why they won’t tighten. Also what’s going to keep this from happening again. May be time for a new shifter. Thanks for you help.
That's interesting. I had a Long Shifter (wonderful, never any problems) when I had the Richmond 6-speed installed. It worked just fine with the console shift plate. Wondering what the difference could have been?
I'll dm you to not dilute the OP's original intentions
Good job. Told ya. Easy peasy. Be gentle until you get that replacement shifter (see offer above from other member)--- since it is wobbly you could end up in this situation again.
It's just a shitty design to bolt the shifter assembly to the frame crossmember instead of the tranny.... not to mention that comparing that Muncie shifter to a Long shifter you will note how there was an "economy" factor....
I had beefed my muncie shifter up and made it nice and snug and everything was tight...it would still occasionally lock up..... especially if I abused it.
Still don’t know about tightening the bolts. They won’t budge. I assume a new shifter can be installed without removing the transmission?
Your fasteners are probably tight. Stop worrying about that.
It's been ages since I did Muncie shifter work..... I *think* you can since there is more room than with the Richmond 6-speed and the assembly is smaller than that.
YOu'd want to get the car up on ramps or quality jackstands.
The assembly that hold the shift unbolts from the center crossmember.
Once you have the car up high, then you can jack and support the tranny to remove the underlying tranny support.
Nothing terribly tough about it other than working underneath and upside down.
Let me get a picture from my AIM>
Originally Posted by 7T3stinger
Still don’t know about tightening the bolts. They won’t budge. I assume a new shifter can be installed without removing the transmission?