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OK. So I spent the last five hours trying eveything known to man to get the drill bit in the bolt hole. It's the one marked #15 on the picture (driver's side rear):
I bought a right angle drill adapter. It didn't work :cuss :mad. I bought a right angle drill. It doesn't fit under the power brake booster :cuss :mad. I'm taking both back now, wasted money :boxing. There's sure gonna be a :cuss fit if I can't return this stuff.
How the @#^* do I remove the brake booster? :confused: I was under the dash for 30 minutes trying to figure out how to find and remove the four nuts and the pin in the top of the brake pedal. :crazy: I looked at the AIM for the same amount of time and I'm still :crazy:.
So, right now I'm :banghead: and :mad and tired of this :bs. I need help figureing out how to fix this hole.
So, now that you've read my :rant: please help!!! :seeya
Re: HELLLLLP! -- Bolt hole stripped, part two! (rainman69)
rainman69,
There are several threads about removing the power brake booster. Many said it was one of the biggest PITA things to do on a C3. Removal/dropping the steering column was a typical recommendation.
Re: HELLLLLP! -- Bolt hole stripped, part two! (mapman)
It can be done without dropping the column. I kept getting bad rebuilt boosters and by the time I did it the 4th time I could swap them in 25 minutes. BTW, I ended up getting a new GM booster and it finally worked.
Re: HELLLLLP! -- Bolt hole stripped, part two! (rainman69)
This may not seem like much help, but I've been in the same position on my BB with the PS booster. I've got a bad (of all f'n things) valve cover bolt in the same area. I tried both the 90 degree adaptor and the 90 degree drill and both didn't even come close. I did have limited success with an adaptor similar to the 90 degree adaptor but it was a different configuration. It attatched to my drill and transferred the power to a bit end which fit right over the working area. It might be that I put an extension on the drill from the chuck to the 90 degree and put another chuck on the 90 degree holding a drill bit. This should allow you to hold the drill in almost any position in the engine bay. As far as your bolt....well....I had a hardened easy-out (ha...easy) stuck in my heads.
Re: HELLLLLP! -- Bolt hole stripped, part two! (70454)
What size hole were you fixing? Mine is a 7/16"-14 which requires a 29/64" drill bit. The shortest bit I've been able to find is about 6" long. If I could find one that is 4" long, I could fit the drill and bit with no problem. I think I'm just going to have to remove the booster.
Re: HELLLLLP! -- Bolt hole stripped, part two! (rainman69)
I was fixing a small and delicate hole. My bits were really small. I broke a few just from the side to side motion on the easy out. Cutting a drill bit might work as suggested and might cut down on your breakage. Try to put a chuck on your 90 degree. You can hold the drill with one hand and apply pressure to the back of the 90 degree to help the bit along.
Re: HELLLLLP! -- Bolt hole stripped, part two! (Schmucker)
I wish...
If I was still at school, I would have done all this in the Auto Hobby Shop there on base, since they cut me deals due to the amount of work I did on my car there...
But, alas, a home garage without full machine shop is my new "shop." :cry
Re: HELLLLLP! -- Bolt hole stripped, part two! (70454)
In retrospect, the adapter + bit length was actually longer than the 90 degree drill + bit. The more I think about it, it's just best (suck) to remove the brake booster to get the extra room.
Re: HELLLLLP! -- Bolt hole stripped, part two! (rainman69)
Rainman, doesn't the base your at have a Hobby Auto shop? I thought just about every AFB had one. Any way, you can trim the top 2 inches off the drill bit with out machine tools, a Dremel tool and one of their carbide wheels will cut right through it. Every 'vette owner/restorer should have a Dremel tool!
Re: HELLLLLP! -- Bolt hole stripped, part two! (Smokehouse69)
Yes it does. And because of things that are above my pay-grade, someone thinks is should turn a profit, not be a "service." :rolleyes:
I spent $400 there to do my rear suspension. That was in storage fees. I have no complaint with the dude that runs the place, but I do have complaint with the lack of funding and support that the shop gets from the base organizations.
I will not do work there again unless I absolutely have to. Besides, I need a lathe to size the shank of the bit down to 3/8" after cutting it. It's a 1/2" shank and the 1/2" right angle drill is too large.
I do appreciate the continued suggestions though...maybe we can figure this out yet.
Re: HELLLLLP! -- Bolt hole stripped, part two! (rainman69)
Oh, and a compliment to Lowe's. They took both back without question even after being opened and the attempted use. Something about the big guarantee on their wall.
Re: HELLLLLP! -- Bolt hole stripped, part two! (rainman69)
Like you said, it's only four nuts and a pin to get it out. :lol:
My experience taking this out was with the firewall removed from the car.
The pin in my brake pedal was worn pretty good and it was tough getting it to slip out. :smash: After that, I had a pretty straight shot at the four nuts.
I fired up the compressor and put the air wrench to a long extension and 6
point socket. Before the compressor pumped all the way up, I had the
booster laying on the floor. Everyone I've talk to says its a pain. I'll try and
get some pics of the firewall tomorrow morning. I looked through all my pics,
and this is the best I have. You can't even see the nuts.
It's a big file -1600x1200
Re: HELLLLLP! -- Bolt hole stripped, part two! (NHvette)
If you need to go ahead and 'shorten' your drill bit. When I had to put helicoils in a bunch of spark plug holes I had to shorten the bit to get lined up. I put it in a vise, busted it in half with a hammer, and sharpened the end. Worked perfectly. Don't know if you have the clearence, but it is a cheap thing to try.
Re: HELLLLLP! -- Bolt hole stripped, part two! (71roadster)
Well, the current plan to get the drill in there and centered is to use a right angle drill after removing the power brake booster. I'm going to design a centering jig that will allow for a straight shot into the hole. After I make up a template, the machine shop down the street will cut me the peice.
I also took back the helicoil kit on recommendation of the machine shop ($24) and they sold me a nice high-quality insert at cost (Like the link posted earlier). I'll get the tap tomorrow, and the drill bit for it by Friday.
Sure, it's the long way to do it, but I think I will be happier with the results at the end.