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On my 1981 I bought a year ago has Goodyear Eagle tires,not sure how long they have been on but a while,all 4 tires wobbled because the inside of all them had a ridge where it looks as if not even touching road,so how can I level all tires flatter,or better anyway,I realized that it was a rough ride,the tires are 20 years old,but the tires are angled outward. Thanks
On my 1981 I bought a year ago has Goodyear Eagle tires,not sure how long they have been on but a while,all 4 tires wobbled because the inside of all them had a ridge where it looks as if not even touching road,so how can I level all tires flatter,or better anyway,I realized that it was a rough ride,the tires are 20 years old, but the tires are angled outward. Thanks
"Angled outward" as in a "toe-out" condition, or an excessive camber condition?
Well the first issue is 20 year old tires are good for static display only.
I would not drive on any tire more than 10 years old. Not even at 35mph.
They continue to harden (vulcanize) every day, develop cracks, and could let-go, and explode, at any time.
Driving on them and flexing hard old tires does not help this situation.
Now how and where these tires have been stored for the last 20 years can make an enormous difference, but they are still old, hard and dangerous.
I almost totaled a steel car when an infamous F****-500 tire let go of it's steel belt at 50 mph. It totaled the rear fender, steel bumper and trunklid as the steel belt beat on the car. I was on the 6 lane Verrazano Narrows Bridge in NYC, so I could not pull over, stop or even slow down. It was awful, like a car wreck that continued for 2 minutes!
A steel belt hitting the fender feels like a homerun swing hit with a baseball bat. I can only imagine how much damage it would cause to a fiberglass fender!
I would check the date codes on the tires, and consider new ones if they are over 7 years old.
Those tires can explode taking fenders and quarter panels with them. Replace the tires and have a 4 wheel alignment. That's a lot cheaper than body work.
Angled tire wear probably means too much camber and a decent amount of toe-in at the same time.
That combo really chews up tires, especially on the inside edge tread block..
Hard charging in the corners typically chews up the outside edges, but usually he tread wear there is more smooth.
Your tire wear is telling you you need an alignment.
Make sure the tech that does the alignment checks ball joints, tie rods, control arm bushings and loose wheel bearings. If any of these are worn an alignment will be a waste of time and money.
Are you referring to all wheels or rear or front wheels only? If it's the rear wheels only, check the bushings in the strut rods. They could be shot and your local tire shop will not have them. I agree with everyone else, get new tires. Jerry
Make sure the tech that does the alignment checks ball joints, tie rods, control arm bushings and loose wheel bearings. If any of these are worn an alignment will be a waste of time and money.
.........You'll be lucky to find a shop or technician that will have anything to do with the C3 rear toe alignment.
I agree. Between the lack of knowledge on how to actually do the job, combined with the propensity of C-3s to develop a lot of rust in the area where the trailing arms bolt on, it's a difficult situation for C-3 owners.
I agree. Between the lack of knowledge on how to actually do the job, combined with the propensity of C-3s to develop a lot of rust in the area where the trailing arms bolt on, it's a difficult situation for C-3 owners.
,,,,,, true. And yet, it is actually a very straightforward simple job most anyone can do at home with a couple basic tools.
Bring it over, ill help ya.