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About the Quickjack forward block placement

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Old Nov 9, 2023 | 05:00 PM
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Default About the Quickjack forward block placement

Folks,
I was eyeballing this picture BKbroiler posted and trying to figure out where the forward lifting block is placed? I've learned not to re-invent the wheel when the Forum has so much knowledge.
In the post below it was stated to place the lifting block where you normally place jack-stands......
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1607158687
I understand that but I usually place my jack-stand farther forward. Anybody have have a closeup? I can figure out the rear but don't want to mess up on the forward placement.... it appears to be immediately before the frame turns inward? Does this look about right?


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Old Nov 9, 2023 | 05:08 PM
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Does this help? It's the only photo I have with it on the Quickjack.


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Old Nov 9, 2023 | 05:34 PM
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It looks like about right placement.
put as far back on frame as you can than with the shortest quickjack leaves you putting the front black just before the frame turns in.
In this thread i use both blocks and adapter.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...er-and-c3.html





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Old Nov 9, 2023 | 07:12 PM
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Thanks Guys!
Looks like straight down from the the front door forward gap.... I can work with that.
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Old Nov 9, 2023 | 07:46 PM
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To every one...its not rocket science. slide it under, line up the rear and put the front one where it falls. It fits where it fits. If you had side pipes it would have to fit further inward. theres no magical place that it NEEDS to be. Mine sits on the rear crossmember inboard of my side pipes and the front catches the frame as in bends inward. Also you realize you can just stick the jack under the frame and jack it up from one spot, front or rear. You can put a jack under the rear differential and lift the whole rear end at once. You can also put a jack under the front frame horn in front of the A arm and lift the front corner. Or put a jack under the lower A arm on the head of the absorbver end so it doesnt move and lift from there. Its what happens when you leave a car to get tires, or a brake job or a exhaust, whatever. Mechanics dont have a corvette manual and they could care less. Its a friggin car and they just slap a jack under it and lift. If you think its somethiing fragile that needs special care then you arent driving it like you should either.


The big deal with a full frame lift is that you get it on square so it doesnt fall off or that there isnt too much weight front or rear so it tips over
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Old Nov 9, 2023 | 09:38 PM
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good enough. Just don't wanna drop the dang thing.
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Old Nov 10, 2023 | 08:05 AM
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Once its in the air those big square blocks grab the frame really well. If you are between the wheels and the engine is still in it it wont flip over. If you pull the engine tranny and front suspension it can be light enough to fall off the back.......
I use a flaslight and once the blocks touch i inspect. Go up so the tires lift then inspect again. Give it a nudge or two inspect and raise.....good to be careful and use common sense but be sensible. Using this lift and the rubber blocks is safer than metal on metal with jacks and jack stands.....you can ask the dead guy that lived 1.5 miles from me that unfortunately got crushed under his pickup fell off the jack and stands.

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Nov 10, 2023 at 08:13 AM.
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Old Nov 10, 2023 | 09:06 AM
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Just for the record, this is the pic I posted.
The front rubber blocks are just behind where the frame curves inward, as mentioned above. That is a factory recommended lift point.


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Old Nov 10, 2023 | 10:26 AM
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Thanks.
I've been jacking mine up to place up high enough to crawl under for years (decades?), It is kinda iffy so I decided go for the Quickjack. Now I'll be less reluctant to get under and do things.
I got the thing filled and vented and a couple of little leaks stopped so after that I figured I'd come and ask for pointers...before I jacked it up.



Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
Once its in the air those big square blocks grab the frame really well. If you are between the wheels and the engine is still in it it wont flip over. If you pull the engine tranny and front suspension it can be light enough to fall off the back.......
I use a flaslight and once the blocks touch i inspect. Go up so the tires lift then inspect again. Give it a nudge or two inspect and raise.....good to be careful and use common sense but be sensible. Using this lift and the rubber blocks is safer than metal on metal with jacks and jack stands.....you can ask the dead guy that lived 1.5 miles from me that unfortunately got crushed under his pickup fell off the jack and stands.
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Old Nov 10, 2023 | 10:58 AM
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QuickJack 5000SLX user here. What the others said is right: front blocks just before the frame turns in and the rear block as far back as they will go.

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Old Nov 10, 2023 | 03:29 PM
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Another vote for rear blocks as far back as you can go and the front will tell you where it needs to be Put the front blocks as far forward as you can. I have side pipes and there is plenty of room on the frame for the blocks to fit. I also inspect mine before it gets off the ground A trick I learned on the C6 side was to wrap the black blocks with blue tape. Makes it a lot easier to see where everything is.
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Old Nov 10, 2023 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by kanvasman
Another vote for rear blocks as far back as you can go and the front will tell you where it needs to be Put the front blocks as far forward as you can. I have side pipes and there is plenty of room on the frame for the blocks to fit. I also inspect mine before it gets off the ground A trick I learned on the C6 side was to wrap the black blocks with blue tape. Makes it a lot easier to see where everything is.
Great tip about the blue tape, thanks!
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Old Nov 10, 2023 | 04:31 PM
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yeah thats a good idea....I might have something reflective laying around
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