When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a problem with my 1972 C3 Corvette that I just bought recently to renovate.
I was hoping someone could help me.
It has had issues starting and I found that it was simply a lead to to the electric choke that had come off.
However, once I got it started I could not turn it off. The key would not turn off, or budge backwards at all. It would only
turn forward. I had to actually pull one of the ignition cables from the distributor to make it stop.
I have seen other with similar issues, that they can't turn it to back to unlock position, and the interlock system is often
to blame, but in my case it does not even let me turn off the engine?
It has not had this issue before. Do you think I need a new lock cylinder?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, I read that post and downloaded the paper also.
I guess that must be the problem, It seems like a pretty difficult operation,
I was hoping that there was something simple I could try first.
It was working fine, but I guess these things can break at any moment.
Thanks Mooser, it is a tilt, but that did not make a difference. Someone told me I could try to adjust the two screws under the steering column,
in case it is "misaligned".
I might try that, but can't really see how they would be connected to the lock cylinder.
I also noticed that the lock tumbler can come out a step (about 2-3mm) from the steering column, or pressed in right against it.
Maybe this is normal?
We are glad you have chosen to join us here where virtually no Corvette question is left unanswered. There are plenty of professional experts and hundreds of years worth of experience on this Forum. It is THE place to be if you have a Corvette!
I would get a graphite pen and squirt some graphite into the lock cylinder. Graphite might loosen the parts up without gumming anything up. Don't try anything with oil unless you are going to replace the Lock cylinder.
Having teenagers at home I invested in a spare Ignition Lock cylinder. It is easy to swap the ignition key so I used this is a deterrent to keep UN-authorized Corvette use to a minimum. I simply put a paper clip in the hole on the cylinder and turn the key and the guts of the lock mechanism comes right out.
Too late .
I already squirted some silicone based lubricant in there, but it didn't help.
I will try your tip with the graphite.
So you're saying that the lock cylinder can come out without disassembling the steering column?
I can't see any hole in my lock cylinder though (except the hole for the key of course)?
Do you have a photo to show what hole you are referring to?
Really appreciate your input.
Best Regards, Matt
Last edited by MattDrake; Mar 11, 2024 at 07:09 PM.
Reason: Added photo
My car is a 1968 C3 and the key is mounted on the dashboard like older cars did. Your ignition assembly is probably different internally than mine. When you look at my ignition lock you will notice a small ~1mm hole in the face of the lock. On my ignition you insert the key and then push in the paperclip and turning the key counterclockwise will release the center section of the lock. I am able to change the ignition key in less than 15 seconds.
After looking at the parts on the ZIP Corvette's catalogue and the 1969-1978 and it has the lock cylinder for $25 and it looks similar to mine BUT without the little hole in the front. I would ask a locksmith how it comes out as it might be really easy or it might be something for a Locksmith to repair. I'll bet it is not that hard to swap. The question is which part is bad The whole key ignition switched was $50 so that would be if it is something wrong with your mechanism.
I am sure there is someone who knows the column mounted ignition systems. Does your ignition lock the wheel or anything?
Generally for most lock problems they do not recommend any liquid as it will gum up the mechanism. The Graphite powder is an awesome lubricant but if it gets wet it might gum up.
I really appreciate your input. Yes, I think mine is different. No hole in the lock cylinder.
I have watched a few YouTube videos and it appears you need to disassemble part of the steering column, until you can get to
the lock cylinder from the inside. Then you use a flat head screwdriver to depress a locking mechanism that holds it in place. This
sits quite far in, so I think it is impossible to reach from the outside. I guess I am just going to have to get my hands dirty after all.
Wish me luck.
I am still struggling with this issue and I have heard a few say that it may be the Ignition switch (rather than ignition cylinder) and it is quite easy to
just drop the steering column and check the rod and the switch. However, after removing all the bolts (thru firewall and vertical ones under knees,
it only drops an inch perhaps, and there is no way I can access the ignition switch. I can feel it with my fingers and the rod that attaches to it, but
there is no room to remove it or see how it is working. Has anyone done this on a 1972 without taking out the whole steering column? I am also
a little in doubt, only because it feels like with the rod and all, it should be a little play in the key when I try and turn it back or I should feel it when
I bend the rod a little, but it is a hard stop when you try turn the key backwards. Anyone had this issue before and it was the lock cylinder that had
seized up?
Look at the lever in the engine compartment, you may have a cable to the shifter that is not hooked up. Pull the lever all the way up and see if that changes anything. The lever is on the column and looks like what is pictured above.
Had this happen in a 81 auto car. Tried to turn the car off and key would turn in any direction. Found ignition switch contacts failed and lock up the switch. I did remove the steering column to replace the ignition switch
I thought I should come back with an update.
It was indeed the lock cylinder that was the culprit.
I installed a new lock cylinder and now I can move it from the RUN position, back to the ACC position.
However, I can still not move it all the way to the LOCK position, and I think perhaps it is because of the
interlock linkage to the gearbox that many have mentioned.
Also, upon reassembly I found that the telescopic shaft locked in the bottom position after I mounted the
steering lock plate and retainer ring.
It was moving up and down freely, but after struggling to get the lock plate back in place (I didn't use a depressor tool,
only my thumbs) I found that the shaft now is not moving at all so I can not get the next part assembled, because the threads
does not reach far enough.
I am not sure if this was a direct consequence of putting the plate back or because maybe turning the ignition key?
Is the tilt only supposed to work when the key is in LOCK position, if so, maybe this is my issue?
Thanks for all the help!
Ignition stuck in RUN position
.
