When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It's time to get the rubber hose out and find what/where the noise is... The one stud on the manifold looks either a little loose or it is just shorter than the other two, maybe it's leaking there after all... you won't know until you listen for it...
It's time to get the rubber hose out and find what/where the noise is... The one stud on the manifold looks either a little loose or it is just shorter than the other two, maybe it's leaking there after all... you won't know until you listen for it...
Do you have a warranty on the engine build?
60
No warranty. The owner retired and closed last year. Looks like I need to put a new gasket on that connection. Thanks.
I was told in an earlier post to get a spacer to replace the riser. I don’t even know if it’s working. Thanks for your reply.
I suspect you are hearing the tick of the exhaust valves through a leak at the spacer and the manifold/spacer/pipe expanding with heat. You need the spacer because that pipe's length is made to fit the old riser valve and the spacer has the different sealing surface profiles to fit both the manifold and the pipe. If you just remove the spacer, you'll have a short pipe and continued exhaust leakage due to poor gasket sealing.
That lower right nut definitely looks like it's about to come off. It also looks like the donut gasket is missing or is degraded. Hit NAPA or the like for a sintered exhaust gasket - take the spacer with you to get the correct diameter. These are a soft metal/compound that molds to seal the two components. As long as you're at it, wouldn't hurt to get the triangular flat gasket that fits between the spacer and the manifold.
Tip: spray the studs and nuts with some sort of lube to ease the nuts off so a stud doesn't snap. If the nut feels like it's seizing when removing, stop and tighten it back up, respray and try again. Work it off rather than force it off! During installation, tighten the nuts a little at a time, working around all three, wiggle the pipe to help it align and seat as you tighten them.
Id address the exhaust first and see if it resolves the ticking your hearing. those studs do like to snap.. My 74 had one stud left holding the pipe on when I bought it and drove it home.
One more thing with gasket replacement: when you disconnect the pipe, see if there's an insert in the pipe end. These help hold the gasket in place and aid alignment. If you don't have it, the pipe is likely to crush the soft metal of the gasket and ruin it. The insert is a simple connector with the flare end fitting into the gasket ID and the down-sized end fitting into the pipe. They only cost a couple bucks. Be aware that the inserts become rusted in place and are just about impossible to remove, so if you have the remains of an insert, don't bother trying to replace it.
I suspect you are hearing the tick of the exhaust valves through a leak at the spacer and the manifold/spacer/pipe expanding with heat. You need the spacer because that pipe's length is made to fit the old riser valve and the spacer has the different sealing surface profiles to fit both the manifold and the pipe. If you just remove the spacer, you'll have a short pipe and continued exhaust leakage due to poor gasket sealing.
That lower right nut definitely looks like it's about to come off. It also looks like the donut gasket is missing or is degraded. Hit NAPA or the like for a sintered exhaust gasket - take the spacer with you to get the correct diameter. These are a soft metal/compound that molds to seal the two components. As long as you're at it, wouldn't hurt to get the triangular flat gasket that fits between the spacer and the manifold.
Tip: spray the studs and nuts with some sort of lube to ease the nuts off so a stud doesn't snap. If the nut feels like it's seizing when removing, stop and tighten it back up, respray and try again. Work it off rather than force it off! During installation, tighten the nuts a little at a time, working around all three, wiggle the pipe to help it align and seat as you tighten them.
Thank you for the advice. I will tackle this tomorrow or Monday.
Id address the exhaust first and see if it resolves the ticking your hearing. those studs do like to snap.. My 74 had one stud left holding the pipe on when I bought it and drove it home.
One more thing with gasket replacement: when you disconnect the pipe, see if there's an insert in the pipe end. These help hold the gasket in place and aid alignment. If you don't have it, the pipe is likely to crush the soft metal of the gasket and ruin it. The insert is a simple connector with the flare end fitting into the gasket ID and the down-sized end fitting into the pipe. They only cost a couple bucks. Be aware that the inserts become rusted in place and are just about impossible to remove, so if you have the remains of an insert, don't bother trying to replace it.
Id address the exhaust first and see if it resolves the ticking your hearing. those studs do like to snap.. My 74 had one stud left holding the pipe on when I bought it and drove it home.
Replaced gasket etc. The tick is still happening. I had these lifters replaced 4,000 miles ago because of the same problem. Now its starting again. It ticks or taps for about a minute on cold start up only. Then stops. That's where Im at. Thanks for your help earlier.
Good to confirm with photos. The exhaust leak may still be present, but the heat riser valve is not the issue, since you don't have one.
Replaced gasket etc. The tick is still happening. I had these lifters replaced 4,000 miles ago because of the same problem. Now its starting again. It ticks or taps for about a minute on cold start up only. Then stops. That's where Im at. Thanks for your help earlier.
Inspect the rest of your exhaust manifolds for cracks. it could be a cracked manifold. leaks when cold then when it warms after a few seconds it expands and closes the leak. also look where the manifold bolts to the head for leaks around the exhaust port.
Pat
Inspect the rest of your exhaust manifolds for cracks. it could be a cracked manifold. leaks when cold then when it warms after a few seconds it expands and closes the leak. also look where the manifold bolts to the head for leaks around the exhaust port.
Pat
That will be difficult to see but will check. I have a 454 so not much room in there to see. Thanks.
Maybe I will get to removing the cover this weekend plus looking for a manifold crack. Thanks. By the way are there 2 heat riser's or just one?
Just one, on the passenger side. When closed, it forces exhaust gasses through the intake, warming it up faster along with incoming combustion air. It wouldn't make sense to have two, the exhaust would have nowhere to go. And I think we established that your intake does not have that exhaust passage, so it's good that a PO had replaced the heat riser with a hollow spacer.
