When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My starter was going out so I decided to replace with a new high torque mini starter. My old starter only had 2 wires connecting to it as there was a remote solenoid.
There is a battery cable from the remote solenoid to the starter solenoid, and then another smaller wire that was connected to the R post on the starter solenoid. There was a metal connector between the S post and the battery post.
I hooked up the wires according to the diagram shown below.
It spins the bendix but it is not kicking out.
I have never had a GM with a separate solenoid.
Does anyone know how to wire this?
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
You will have to remove the remote solenoid and find the purple wire and the yellow wire.
See if the original main battery (+) cable will reach the new starter.
You will have to find the two fusible links, are they there or eliminated?
Here's a basic starter diagram:
Here's the '74 schematic.
You should find a black wire that is a ground for the heater motor, that wire connects to a starter or bell housing bolt.
Your first photo shows a "Ford style" solenoid.
On your old starter:
Your second photo shows a jumper bracket from the POS large lug to the smaller POS lug or terminal.
Not sure what that's about. But I don't believe those two terminals should be connected.
The longer lug on the starter casing is where a bracket should be attached to help support the weight of the front of the starter.
The other end of the support bracket goes to the block and also aids in another GRD source normally
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
MirandaJ,
Your first photo shows a "Ford style" solenoid.
On your old starter:
Your second photo shows a jumper bracket from the POS large lug to the smaller POS lug or terminal.
Not sure what that's about. But I don't believe those two terminals should be connected.
The OP has used a 'Rube Goldberg' wiring diagram.
Turning the key to START energizes the FORD relay and sends power to the Corvette starter solenoid POSITIVE cable which is connected to the Corvette solenoid battery post.
The solenoid would not turn on without the jumper from the POSITIVE terminal to the S terminal.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Yes...perhaps the start connection wire from the ignition switch circuit to the starter S was open so they put the relay in and then hooked the two connections (B+ and S) together.
Nope...found out later it is done mostly for wiring convenience.
Last edited by Redvette2; Mar 28, 2024 at 06:32 PM.
Reason: Corrected terminal to S.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Looks like if you keep the extra relay circuit you can hook up the new starter the same way....use the Battery out wire from the relay and then jumper the S to the starter B+ terminal (no other connection to S). If you want to take it all out and rewire then you may find the reason for the other relay that was the original issue which might be why your mini did not engage the solenoid after you wired it in.
Last edited by Redvette2; Mar 24, 2024 at 05:22 PM.
Reason: More thoughts.
Your first photo shows a "Ford style" solenoid.
On your old starter:
Your second photo shows a jumper bracket from the POS large lug to the smaller POS lug or terminal.
Not sure what that's about. But I don't believe those two terminals should be connected.
The longer lug on the starter casing is where a bracket should be attached to help support the weight of the front of the starter.
The other end of the support bracket goes to the block and also aids in another GRD source normally
I knew it was Ford style. I had just never seen it done on a GM before. That was done before I bought the car. It worked.
The starter was starting to go out so I purchased the new mini starter and a starter blanket to shield it from the heat of the headers and exhaust pipe.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Wait a minute...that diagram labels do not look right. M is the one that has the heavy wire to the motor and is a no connection, +12 volts would be the always hot connection. Labels look reversed to me. If you hooked there...I bet that is why the Bendix turned only!
Looking at that wiring diagram it looks like the small black wire attached to R terminal is for coil, since my car has HEI with a coil built into it, I wonder if it still needs to hook up to the starter. Also I am guessing that isn’t what should be connected to the blade terminal on the mini starter. It looks like I need to run a jumper wire from the remote solenoid that has the connection to the yellow wire and have that go to the blade terminal on the starter.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
If you may not have a working S starter wire and you are keeping the extra relay...then just hook up the 12V out from the relay to your mini terminal marked 12V (on the mini) and jumper the S to that same 12V post. I do not believe you need anything else (R) since you have a HEI distributor.
Last edited by Redvette2; Mar 27, 2024 at 08:23 PM.
I have starter hooked up and working. The diagram from seller was wrong in that I had to use the “M” terminal. I then ran a wire from remote solenoid post where the yellow was hooked up to the blade terminal on starter.
There is still an issue though for as soon as I release the key, the engine dies. I think this has to do with HEI ignition. I know from my research that there is a resistor to turn voltage down for old points ignition systems.
Neither of the two small posts on the remote starter are showing 12 volts on the multimeter. The wiring diagram shows the wire into distributor is coming from heater, but when I look at car I don’t see where that wire is. I hate to unwrap the wiring bundle to find it, so I was hoping someone can point me to where the wire into distributor is on the car.
Also is this thing the ballast resistor?
It was mounted on firewall by heater and has 4 wires going into it, green/black stripe, black, pink and purple. If not can someone let me know what it is.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
When using a HEI distributor you need to hook its power connection to the ignition circuit. This is the one that is always on when the key is either in the start position or the run position (but not accessory). I hooked my HEI power wire thru the firewall and to the fuse block IGN spade lug.
Starter replacement.
Yes...perhaps the start connection wire from the ignition switch circuit to the starter S was open so they put the relay in and then hooked the two connections (B+ and S) together.
