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Scientifically speaking PCV is bad for an engine. You are introducing a variable vacuum leak that plays havoc on the precise metering of the air fuel ratio. You are also introducing oil mist, water, and unburnable gases into the manifold. It's just dirty on the intake track and cylinders.
just venting the valve covers is better. Electric or manual vacuum pumps are better and the best is dry sump oil systems
Or pick them up at JY for next to nothing. Lots of manufacturers use them.
Compatible with: For CTS 2008-2014, STS 2008-2011, For CAMARO 2010-2015, For CAPRICE 2016-2017, For HHR 2008-2010, For Pontiac SOLSTICE 2007-2009, For Saturn SKY 2007-2010, For Volvo C30 2008-2013, C70 2006-2013, S40 2001-2011, V40 2001-2004,V50 2005-2011
Do these apply constant vacuum,....and how much vacuum would be correct to vent the crankcase...on a NA engine? I have manual brakes...so this would have nothing to do with low brake vacuum.....so, is this an option for ventiflating an engine case versus PCV??
Do these apply constant vacuum,....and how much vacuum would be correct to vent the crankcase...on a NA engine? I have manual brakes...so this would have nothing to do with low brake vacuum.....so, is this an option for ventiflating an engine case versus PCV??
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Havent heard of anyone using an elctric vacuum pump on the block....gotta be one out there somewhere...I looked at CVR for a while and decided against it
Found a guy that has a 9 second car at the car show has a gz motorsports 104 in his..It is a blet drive and he swears by it and its a street driven car...https://www.gzmotorsports.com/VP104-vacuum-pump.html...
he had a bung welded onto a set of aluminum valve covers and put a sheet metal baffle on the inside...no oil suck issues
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; May 12, 2024 at 10:40 AM.
You might need to read up on adjustable dry sump vacuum levels.
But on your typical dry sump motor we set them to 16 to 20 inches of vacuum and that's where you made an additional 25 or so hp.
He’s talking about an electric vacuum pump to supply vacuum to the car for brakes/lights etc, not to pull vacuum on the crank case. Two different kinds of vacuum pumps.
He’s talking about an electric vacuum pump to supply vacuum to the car for brakes/lights etc, not to pull vacuum on the crank case. Two different kinds of vacuum pumps.
Scientifically speaking PCV is bad for an engine. You are introducing a variable vacuum leak that plays havoc on the precise metering of the air fuel ratio. You are also introducing oil mist, water, and unburnable gases into the manifold. It's just dirty on the intake track and cylinders.
just venting the valve covers is better. Electric or manual vacuum pumps are better and the best is dry sump oil systems
Without suction engine oil turns to sludge and more able to accumulated water during heat cycling. Venting the crankcase is the worst possible thing you can do to an engine's oil system it will have negative impact on the quality of oil and the piston ring functions as well as facilitate oil leaking. Please don't take this as an attack I need you to learn this. What sort of data would you like to see on this subject, I have everything. I am a doctor I teach engineering and have studied PCV systems for over 20 years I have all the data you could want. But I dont just dump it here unless you'd like to see it
I know the subject is coming up briefly so I just leave this example here.
This is an example of electric vacuum pumping crankcase scavenging
The next thing I did today was to relocate the vacuum source for my PCV setup from the PCV can to the front valve cover. I wanted to see if the vacuum was the same between the two references. Essentially, I don't see a noticeable difference whether I read the vacuum from the can or from the front valve cover. While I was doing this I decided the short the Hobbs switch to check out the vacuum with the air pump turned on. To my surprise it wasn't turning on. Upon inspecting the 15amp fuse it had blown so it was not working when under boost. This might explain why I had oil pushing past the rear main seal. I swapped in a 20amp fuse and it works like it should and pulls ~5" at idle. Because I monitor the pressure with my AeroForce Gauge it allows me to set a warning light. I now have the warning light come on anytime the PCV presssure exceeds 0psi.
Notice:
- He measures the crankcase pressure and has a gauge with a warning set for positive crankcase pressure
- He noticed the crankcase pressure was forcing oil out of the engine seals and corrected it with a vacuum signal before it got worse
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n
Without suction engine oil turns to sludge and more able to accumulated water during heat cycling. Venting the crankcase is the worst possible thing you can do to an engine's oil system it will have negative impact on the quality of oil and the piston ring functions as well as facilitate oil leaking. Please don't take this as an attack I need you to learn this. What sort of data would you like to see on this subject, I have everything. I am a doctor I teach engineering and have studied PCV systems for over 20 years I have all the data you could want. But I dont just dump it here unless you'd like to see it
Engineer here. I'm interested in any technical details you'd be kind enough to share.
Just out of curiosity last week prior to a track day, I plumbed up a low pressure gauge to the cam valley to see if I would notice any appreciable pressure rise during the the WOT periods. Was distracted by some brake issues during the day, so that test/measurement was incomplete.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
If its for the brakes then I used a Hella rotary vane pump kit, its quieter and will last longer. Make sure you add in one way valves so when it shuts off you dont create a leak. Mine shuts off at a certain Inches of Mercury..not sure what it was off the top of my head now
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; May 13, 2024 at 02:04 PM.
I f its for the brakes then I used a Hella rotary vane pump kit, its quieter and will last longer. Make sure you add in one way valves so when it shuts off you dont create a leak.
Yep, Hella type and one way valves, especially in a boosted application.
Engineer here. I'm interested in any technical details you'd be kind enough to share.
Just out of curiosity last week prior to a track day, I plumbed up a low pressure gauge to the cam valley to see if I would notice any appreciable pressure rise during the the WOT periods. Was distracted by some brake issues during the day, so that test/measurement was incomplete.
The main thing I discuss the most for performance applications and the most commonly underestimated system seems to be the PCV system and it happens to be crucial component of oil control absolutely fundamental to engine longevity and reliability and as such the very first thing and last thing I teach new comers to engine tuning approach for performance vehicles.
You can alternatively PM me or email me (user name at aol dot com) , build thread in sig showing correct way to build a daily driver performance vehicle all of the necessary longevity tactics evolved approach for high mileage and reliability, there is a video how to measure crankcase pressure, demonstrated using the more difficult type of engine I can find (wrong engine for the car + high mileage + original inside goo + turbocharger) how to correctly control the crankcase pressure even under the worst circumstances - showing once and for all that engines even high mileage bumped output boosted daily drivers do not need catch cans, just correct PCV approach..
Sorry for interruption good luck with the head light vacuum stuff
The main thing I discuss the most for performance applications and the most commonly underestimated system seems to be the PCV system and it happens to be crucial component of oil control absolutely fundamental to engine longevity and reliability and as such the very first thing and last thing I teach new comers to engine tuning approach for performance vehicles.
You can alternatively PM me or email me (user name at aol dot com) , build thread in sig showing correct way to build a daily driver performance vehicle all of the necessary longevity tactics evolved approach for high mileage and reliability, there is a video how to measure crankcase pressure, demonstrated using the more difficult type of engine I can find (wrong engine for the car + high mileage + original inside goo + turbocharger) how to correctly control the crankcase pressure even under the worst circumstances - showing once and for all that engines even high mileage bumped output boosted daily drivers do not need catch cans, just correct PCV approach..
Sorry for interruption good luck with the head light vacuum stuff
Thinking about doing this on my 73
we hat have you guys done?
part numbers:
This project is on my list of things to do this year. This Wiki page has part numbers and a diagram for installing a Hella UP28 pump and a vacuum valve from a Volvo C90: https://openinverter.org/wiki/Vacuum_Pumps
