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How about a 2x4 spanning the top of the frame side to side and using a ratchet strap between the spring and 2x?
I thought about something like that. I have the frame on a ramp lift. I thought I might ratchet strap the frame to the lift and use a jack under the spring.
Thanks for the picture Paul. Looks like you are using two jacks in the picture. I'm guessing one is to lift the trailing arm up to ride height and the other to lift the spring. Did you have the spring fully torqued to the differential when you did this or just snug?
Torque the four spring bolts with the full weight of the car. If you torque it before, you run the risk of snapping off the ears of the differential cover. Jerry
I thought about something like that. I have the frame on a ramp lift. I thought I might ratchet strap the frame to the lift and use a jack under the spring.
I've read about ratcheting the frame to the lift, especially to simulate the assembled car's weight for setting alignment or some such. I was thinking you were working on the ground where a jack would lift everything before lifting the spring enough to get it connected. I don't see why the jack wouldn't work in this case too.
I got rid of that heavy steel spring, and used a composite spring instead. Your best option today is likely a low-arch spring from VanSteel.
It'll be slack with the suspension at full droop, so you can bolt the spring to the trailing arms without compressing anything, so it's both lighter AND safer to install.
Last edited by Bikespace; Jun 28, 2024 at 02:00 PM.
This is the method that I ended up using. I strapped the frame down to the lift and used the jack to lift the spring. Worked like a charm. The problem I have now is that with the suspension hanging down the axle shafts on both sides are binding against the new side yokes that I installed in the differential and won't turn a full turn. When I measure the old side yokes and compare them to the new ones there is a definite difference in the clearance area for the axle shaft.
This is the method that I ended up using. I strapped the frame down to the lift and used the jack to lift the spring. Worked like a charm. The problem I have now is that with the suspension hanging down the axle shafts on both sides are binding against the new side yokes that I installed in the differential and won't turn a full turn. When I measure the old side yokes and compare them to the new ones there is a definite difference in the clearance area for the axle shaft.
There's always something that crops up as an unintended consequence! What if you were to replicate the jack/jackstands and frame cinching so the half-shafts were pretty much level and then place wood wedges under the trailing arms at the frame?
I think my problem is like so many of us that have to buy aftermarket replacement parts,quality is a big problem. With the suspension hanging as it is the assembly should rotate with no problem. The new side yokes do not have enough clearance for the axle shafts when the suspension is hanging as in the picture. When I raise the suspension with a jack and the axle shaft comes up closer to ride height it rotates fine.The only thing I can think of doing is take my die grinder and provide the clearance required. Jack
Who told you that the assembly should rotate without issue while the suspension is at full droop? That is certainly not the case.
With a low-arch composite spring, you can raise the trailing arms a bit before the spring takes any weight, and you may be able to freely turn the assembly then. You can do the same with that heavily arched steel spring, but only if the spring is carrying some of the weight of the car.
You also have new shocks now.
Some of the shocks have shorter extension travel, and the spring will not drop as far.
You don't need 5" of droop anyway, it's a waste, about 2" is enough.
You only have 2" in rebound/bump anyway!
Thanks for the picture Paul. Looks like you are using two jacks in the picture. I'm guessing one is to lift the trailing arm up to ride height and the other to lift the spring. Did you have the spring fully torqued to the differential when you did this or just snug?
Here's a link to my build thread covering this. Post #309 has better photos that show what I did...
