1978 Vette Diff
The caps are line bored to the housing, without them you will have to fit caps, - correctly. Most will not have access the caps or know how to fit them. I have a lot of stock caps and steel caps and know how to fit them. That doesn't help you since the labor would be more than the value of the carrier.
Even if you had the caps, where would get the correct side shims to build a 63? They don't come in the master kits sold today. Something vendors don't either know or tell their customers this little fact.
The wear at the seal location on both sides is from using C3 axles in it that worn down and crashed into it. The bores are still good but if it was any deeper the only fix would be to bore and sleeve it, again worth more than the housing value unless it was a matching numbers car.
Here is a tip.
Do a lot more homework before you spend any more money.
Out of the car complete diff's rebuilders pay $250 for. Market price if you will, is $400. Anything over $400 is overpriced and more than likely has issues.
If you don't know these diff's you will get burnt over and over. I have been teaching about this for decades but it's still prevalent today. Chances of finding a good used diff to bolt in without issue is slim. It is not impossible, but you have to know a lot more than you do now. I am not trying to be negative here, but if you saw some of what I have doing this work for decades you would understand better. And I get it, I bought my first vette, a 67 coupe, at age 18- there was no internet then. There were few custom builders then, even less today, and in that group even less who are honest. It has been a long road. I learned and developed more about these parts than most selling them know will ever know, yet they sell parts every day. Be careful of some rebuilders in the Lone Star state as well.
Good luck. Build the diff to your application do not trust cookie cutter builds for anything today.
The caps are line bored to the housing, without them you will have to fit caps, - correctly. Most will not have access the caps or know how to fit them. I have a lot of stock caps and steel caps and know how to fit them. That doesn't help you since the labor would be more than the value of the carrier.
Even if you had the caps, where would get the correct side shims to build a 63? They don't come in the master kits sold today. Something vendors don't either know or tell their customers this little fact.
The wear at the seal location on both sides is from using C3 axles in it that worn down and crashed into it. The bores are still good but if it was any deeper the only fix would be to bore and sleeve it, again worth more than the housing value unless it was a matching numbers car.
Here is a tip.
Do a lot more homework before you spend any more money.
Out of the car complete diff's rebuilders pay $250 for. Market price if you will, is $400. Anything over $400 is overpriced and more than likely has issues.
If you don't know these diff's you will get burnt over and over. I have been teaching about this for decades but it's still prevalent today. Chances of finding a good used diff to bolt in without issue is slim. It is not impossible, but you have to know a lot more than you do now. I am not trying to be negative here, but if you saw some of what I have doing this work for decades you would understand better. And I get it, I bought my first vette, a 67 coupe, at age 18- there was no internet then. There were few custom builders then, even less today, and in that group even less who are honest. It has been a long road. I learned and developed more about these parts than most selling them know will ever know, yet they sell parts every day. Be careful of some rebuilders in the Lone Star state as well.
Good luck. Build the diff to your application do not trust cookie cutter builds for anything today.
The caps are line bored to the housing, without them you will have to fit caps, - correctly. Most will not have access the caps or know how to fit them. I have a lot of stock caps and steel caps and know how to fit them. That doesn't help you since the labor would be more than the value of the carrier.
Even if you had the caps, where would get the correct side shims to build a 63? They don't come in the master kits sold today. Something vendors don't either know or tell their customers this little fact.
The wear at the seal location on both sides is from using C3 axles in it that worn down and crashed into it. The bores are still good but if it was any deeper the only fix would be to bore and sleeve it, again worth more than the housing value unless it was a matching numbers car.
Here is a tip.
Do a lot more homework before you spend any more money.
Out of the car complete diff's rebuilders pay $250 for. Market price if you will, is $400. Anything over $400 is overpriced and more than likely has issues.
If you don't know these diff's you will get burnt over and over. I have been teaching about this for decades but it's still prevalent today. Chances of finding a good used diff to bolt in without issue is slim. It is not impossible, but you have to know a lot more than you do now. I am not trying to be negative here, but if you saw some of what I have doing this work for decades you would understand better. And I get it, I bought my first vette, a 67 coupe, at age 18- there was no internet then. There were few custom builders then, even less today, and in that group even less who are honest. It has been a long road. I learned and developed more about these parts than most selling them know will ever know, yet they sell parts every day. Be careful of some rebuilders in the Lone Star state as well.
Good luck. Build the diff to your application do not trust cookie cutter builds for anything today.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ay-advice.html
I just generated another surplus 3.55 diff (and an entire chassis), when I found a built SRIII chassis.
Keep looking! They are out there. Sometimes still inside parts cars. Glad to see the OP had success!
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
















