Engine running ruff after setting 78 L82
From what I understand if it was the coil it would be ok cold then start failing when the engine gets hot. That's not happening.
If the ignition module fails you can't start the car. The car still starts normally.
From what I understand if it was the coil it would be ok cold then start failing when the engine gets hot. That's not happening.
If the ignition module fails you can't start the car. The car still starts normally.
A failing ignition module can behave perfectly fine until it gets hot -- it's really just a coil of a different design. You could test this by running the car until it fails and then using a can of Dust-Off (upside down), spray the module for a few seconds, which will quickly cool it. Reassemble and see how it behaves.
A failing ignition module can behave perfectly fine until it gets hot -- it's really just a coil of a different design. You could test this by running the car until it fails and then using a can of Dust-Off (upside down), spray the module for a few seconds, which will quickly cool it. Reassemble and see how it behaves.
The distributor Spring Bushing affects every single volt in the entire Ignition system.
Every single sparkplug firing goes through that bushing. Every single spark at thousand per minute, go through that bushing.
The bushing rubs on the rotor, correct? Or I should say the rotor rubs on the bushing.
So, what I am getting at is, the high resistance of the old gnarly bushing is restricting the voltage to the plugs. Instead of each plug receiving 50,000 volts, perhaps there is only 10,000.
Car runs like crap w/o a good, clean, blue, spark
Anyway, new dizzy is 25 yrs old? H-m-m-m-m-m-
When does it become "Not new?
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Nov 2, 2024 at 07:35 PM.
The distributor Spring Bushing affects every single volt in the entire Ignition system.
Every single sparkplug firing goes through that bushing. Every single spark at thousand per minute, go through that bushing.
The bushing rubs on the rotor, correct? Or I should say the rotor rubs on the bushing.
So, what I am getting at is, the high resistance of the old gnarly bushing is restricting the voltage to the plugs. Instead of each plug receiving 50,000 volts, perhaps there is only 10,000.
Car runs like crap w/o a good, clean, blue, spark
Anyway, new dizzy is 25 yrs old? H-m-m-m-m-m-
When does it become "Not new?
I checked all of my plugs with thee inductive timing light and all are firing.
That doesn't describe what you said about the voltage drop.
Which still could be the problem.
Its just a flash of light, strobe. But how many volts?
That rotor is arcing badly. Its arcing because of the bushing.
Pull it out and replace it. Obviuosly with new rotor also.
I bet you a chili dog, fries and a chocolate shake, your IGN issues will go away.
I checked all of my plugs with thee inductive timing light and all are firing.
That doesn't describe what you said about the voltage drop.
Which still could be the problem.
Its just a flash of light, strobe. But how many volts?
That rotor is arcing badly. Its arcing because of the bushing.
Pull it out and replace it. Obviuosly with new rotor also.
I bet you a chili dog, fries and a chocolate shake, your IGN issues will go away.
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Car runs not as bad when first started then gets worse as it warms up? Gets worse as the choke goes off and the engine gets less fuel?
While the issue might be distributor related it would seem to me to be more carb related. All it takes is a little varnish in the wrong spot and you have troubles.
After tuning up the distributor, it might be time for a carb rebuild or at least cleaning. If that gas treatment sits too long it will start to build up on the jets.
Just something else to look into.
Car runs not as bad when first started then gets worse as it warms up? Gets worse as the choke goes off and the engine gets less fuel?
While the issue might be distributor related it would seem to me to be more carb related. All it takes is a little varnish in the wrong spot and you have troubles.
After tuning up the distributor, it might be time for a carb rebuild or at least cleaning. If that gas treatment sits too long it will start to build up on the jets.
Just something else to look into.
I didn't know about gas treatment cashing varnish. When I was checking for spark I started the engine 8 times with no problem.
The roughness is the same when the car is 1st started or when is has been driven for 30 minutes or so.
Let's get back to post # 35 photos.
Thanks to my lap-tops ability, I was able to zoom in on your rotor Len.
Let's see. What two words would describe the condition of that rotor? Let me see. Let me see.
Oh ya. Holy crap. That thing is burnt and has an arcing mark where the spring bushing rubs.
I am not saying you need a new distributor. In fact, I think the cap itself can be cleaned of the mysterious splatter marks inside. Terminals look ok too.
However, change the rotor and bushing.
Glancing at Summits rotors, they have an el-cheapo, black one, for $5.99. (Likely has a one-week warranty)
They also have a red MSD quality unit for $27. (hint-hint)
They also have a Low Resistance MSD Spring Bushing for less than $20.
P.N. MSD 8412
You have three little phillip screws on the coil dust cover.
You have four bolts under that holding the coil in.
Under that is a rubber insulator and the bushing. Which appears in the photo as carbon tracked.
Very easy replacements.
Let's get back to post # 35 photos.
Thanks to my lap-tops ability, I was able to zoom in on your rotor Len.
Let's see. What two words would describe the condition of that rotor? Let me see. Let me see.
Oh ya. Holy crap. That thing is burnt and has an arcing mark where the spring bushing rubs.
I am not saying you need a new distributor. In fact, I think the cap itself can be cleaned of the mysterious splatter marks inside. Terminals look ok too.
However, change the rotor and bushing.
Glancing at Summits rotors, they have an el-cheapo, black one, for $5.99. (Likely has a one-week warranty)
They also have a red MSD quality unit for $27. (hint-hint)
They also have a Low Resistance MSD Spring Bushing for less than $20.
P.N. MSD 8412
You have three little phillip screws on the coil dust cover.
You have four bolts under that holding the coil in.
Under that is a rubber insulator and the bushing. Which appears in the photo as carbon tracked.
Very easy replacements.
I just got a call from my mechanic. He said it was a bad spark plug in #4. They changed it and the engine is back to normal.
Not sure what makes a plug go bad but this one did.
Both of those parts are shot. No other way to describe it, just plain shot.
Spring Bushing under the coil is bad too.
Rotor is burned at both ends, both contact places and the cap has questionable terminals.
Plus, a very mysterious spray pattern internally.
I agree, for the inexpensive cost of a rotor and cap (~$50 combined), now is the time to change them. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes for your mechanic, maybe 20 for you (you must keep the plug wires in the proper order on the cap).
I agree, for the inexpensive cost of a rotor and cap (~$50 combined), now is the time to change them. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes for your mechanic, maybe 20 for you (you must keep the plug wires in the proper order on the cap).
I am curious how a plug just stops working. Hopefully he saved the spark plug and it shows something.
can you comment n what were the plugs?
There were also some fake NGKs going around.
But I had 3 out of a dozen fail.
Most of those NGK issues were resolved a while back.














