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Engine running ruff after setting 78 L82

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Old Nov 2, 2024 | 11:14 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by interpon
Not to throw parts at anything….
but is it time for tune up?
plugs, wires, cap, rotor, inspection and full choke operation….

then take it for a rip and burn sme fuel! And see..
Certainly could be. But there is only 5000 miles on the engine since the rebuilt.

From what I understand if it was the coil it would be ok cold then start failing when the engine gets hot. That's not happening.

If the ignition module fails you can't start the car. The car still starts normally.
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Old Nov 2, 2024 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by LenWoodruff
Certainly could be. But there is only 5000 miles on the engine since the rebuilt.

From what I understand if it was the coil it would be ok cold then start failing when the engine gets hot. That's not happening.

If the ignition module fails you can't start the car. The car still starts normally.
For electronic components, I don't think miles are as important as age.

A failing ignition module can behave perfectly fine until it gets hot -- it's really just a coil of a different design. You could test this by running the car until it fails and then using a can of Dust-Off (upside down), spray the module for a few seconds, which will quickly cool it. Reassemble and see how it behaves.
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Old Nov 2, 2024 | 11:49 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 67:72
For electronic components, I don't think miles are as important as age.

A failing ignition module can behave perfectly fine until it gets hot -- it's really just a coil of a different design. You could test this by running the car until it fails and then using a can of Dust-Off (upside down), spray the module for a few seconds, which will quickly cool it. Reassemble and see how it behaves.
That's a good idea. But in this case the ignition module doesn't fail when it gets hot. Which is the perplexing part of this diagnoses.
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Old Nov 2, 2024 | 07:30 PM
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Len,

The distributor Spring Bushing affects every single volt in the entire Ignition system.
Every single sparkplug firing goes through that bushing. Every single spark at thousand per minute, go through that bushing.
The bushing rubs on the rotor, correct? Or I should say the rotor rubs on the bushing.

So, what I am getting at is, the high resistance of the old gnarly bushing is restricting the voltage to the plugs. Instead of each plug receiving 50,000 volts, perhaps there is only 10,000.
Car runs like crap w/o a good, clean, blue, spark

Anyway, new dizzy is 25 yrs old? H-m-m-m-m-m-
When does it become "Not new?

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Nov 2, 2024 at 07:35 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2024 | 07:40 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Len,

The distributor Spring Bushing affects every single volt in the entire Ignition system.
Every single sparkplug firing goes through that bushing. Every single spark at thousand per minute, go through that bushing.
The bushing rubs on the rotor, correct? Or I should say the rotor rubs on the bushing.

So, what I am getting at is, the high resistance of the old gnarly bushing is restricting the voltage to the plugs. Instead of each plug receiving 50,000 volts, perhaps there is only 10,000.
Car runs like crap w/o a good, clean, blue, spark

Anyway, new dizzy is 25 yrs old? H-m-m-m-m-m-
When does it become "Not new?
If I understand what you saying is that the car should be running very badly. But this is not that severe. Like just 1 cyclinder is missing.

I checked all of my plugs with thee inductive timing light and all are firing.

That doesn't describe what you said about the voltage drop.

Which still could be the problem.
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Old Nov 3, 2024 | 08:40 PM
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I know of not one timing light capable of indicating that you do or do not have full voltage at the plugwire.
Its just a flash of light, strobe. But how many volts?

That rotor is arcing badly. Its arcing because of the bushing.
Pull it out and replace it. Obviuosly with new rotor also.

I bet you a chili dog, fries and a chocolate shake, your IGN issues will go away.

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Old Nov 3, 2024 | 08:58 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by LenWoodruff
If I understand what you saying is that the car should be running very badly. But this is not that severe. Like just 1 cyclinder is missing.

I checked all of my plugs with thee inductive timing light and all are firing.

That doesn't describe what you said about the voltage drop.

Which still could be the problem.
The timing light will show voltage is reaching the plug (i.e. voltage present in the Ign.wire) not that the plug is firing.
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Old Nov 3, 2024 | 09:29 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
I know of not one timing light capable of indicating that you do or do not have full voltage at the plugwire.
Its just a flash of light, strobe. But how many volts?

That rotor is arcing badly. Its arcing because of the bushing.
Pull it out and replace it. Obviuosly with new rotor also.

I bet you a chili dog, fries and a chocolate shake, your IGN issues will go away.
Thanks for the headsup and clarification. I will look at it tomorrow.
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Old Nov 3, 2024 | 09:30 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 1Hotrodz
The timing light will show voltage is reaching the plug (i.e. voltage present in the Ign.wire) not that the plug is firing.
I guess the only way to know would be to pull the plug correct?
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Old Nov 4, 2024 | 08:17 AM
  #50  
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25 years and 5,000 miles. Doesn't sound like it is driven much.
Car runs not as bad when first started then gets worse as it warms up? Gets worse as the choke goes off and the engine gets less fuel?
While the issue might be distributor related it would seem to me to be more carb related. All it takes is a little varnish in the wrong spot and you have troubles.
After tuning up the distributor, it might be time for a carb rebuild or at least cleaning. If that gas treatment sits too long it will start to build up on the jets.
Just something else to look into.
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Old Nov 4, 2024 | 08:36 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by bonesbrakr
25 years and 5,000 miles. Doesn't sound like it is driven much.
Car runs not as bad when first started then gets worse as it warms up? Gets worse as the choke goes off and the engine gets less fuel?
While the issue might be distributor related it would seem to me to be more carb related. All it takes is a little varnish in the wrong spot and you have troubles.
After tuning up the distributor, it might be time for a carb rebuild or at least cleaning. If that gas treatment sits too long it will start to build up on the jets.
Just something else to look into.
Sorry for the confusion. I driven it about 5,000 since 2018 when they rebuilt the engine and the carb. The carb was rebuilt using the ethanol resistant parts.

I didn't know about gas treatment cashing varnish. When I was checking for spark I started the engine 8 times with no problem.

The roughness is the same when the car is 1st started or when is has been driven for 30 minutes or so.

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Old Nov 4, 2024 | 08:26 PM
  #52  
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Let's get back to basics.
Let's get back to post # 35 photos.
Thanks to my lap-tops ability, I was able to zoom in on your rotor Len.
Let's see. What two words would describe the condition of that rotor? Let me see. Let me see.
Oh ya. Holy crap. That thing is burnt and has an arcing mark where the spring bushing rubs.

I am not saying you need a new distributor. In fact, I think the cap itself can be cleaned of the mysterious splatter marks inside. Terminals look ok too.
However, change the rotor and bushing.

Glancing at Summits rotors, they have an el-cheapo, black one, for $5.99. (Likely has a one-week warranty)
They also have a red MSD quality unit for $27. (hint-hint)
They also have a Low Resistance MSD Spring Bushing for less than $20.
P.N. MSD 8412

You have three little phillip screws on the coil dust cover.
You have four bolts under that holding the coil in.
Under that is a rubber insulator and the bushing. Which appears in the photo as carbon tracked.
Very easy replacements.



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Old Nov 4, 2024 | 09:37 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Let's get back to basics.
Let's get back to post # 35 photos.
Thanks to my lap-tops ability, I was able to zoom in on your rotor Len.
Let's see. What two words would describe the condition of that rotor? Let me see. Let me see.
Oh ya. Holy crap. That thing is burnt and has an arcing mark where the spring bushing rubs.

I am not saying you need a new distributor. In fact, I think the cap itself can be cleaned of the mysterious splatter marks inside. Terminals look ok too.
However, change the rotor and bushing.

Glancing at Summits rotors, they have an el-cheapo, black one, for $5.99. (Likely has a one-week warranty)
They also have a red MSD quality unit for $27. (hint-hint)
They also have a Low Resistance MSD Spring Bushing for less than $20.
P.N. MSD 8412

You have three little phillip screws on the coil dust cover.
You have four bolts under that holding the coil in.
Under that is a rubber insulator and the bushing. Which appears in the photo as carbon tracked.
Very easy replacements.
Thanks for the help. I can check those out tomorrow.
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Old Nov 12, 2024 | 08:05 AM
  #54  
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Thanks everyone for all of you ideas/support.

I just got a call from my mechanic. He said it was a bad spark plug in #4. They changed it and the engine is back to normal.

Not sure what makes a plug go bad but this one did.
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Old Nov 12, 2024 | 08:37 AM
  #55  
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If he didn't swap-out the Cap & Rotor, you have gained very little.

Both of those parts are shot. No other way to describe it, just plain shot.
Spring Bushing under the coil is bad too.

Rotor is burned at both ends, both contact places and the cap has questionable terminals.
Plus, a very mysterious spray pattern internally.
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Old Nov 12, 2024 | 09:00 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by LenWoodruff
Not sure what makes a plug go bad but this one did.
Plugs can go bad in a couple of ways: they can have a cracked porcelain insulator that causes the spark to go to the engine block rather than the tip to ignite the fuel; they can get loaded up with debris that inhibits a good, consistent spark; the electrode can erode away; or they can get damaged on installation so that the gap is way too small. I'm sure there are other things but that's what came to mind.

Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
If he didn't swap-out the Cap & Rotor, you have gained very little.
I agree, for the inexpensive cost of a rotor and cap (~$50 combined), now is the time to change them. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes for your mechanic, maybe 20 for you (you must keep the plug wires in the proper order on the cap).

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Old Nov 12, 2024 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 67:72
Plugs can go bad in a couple of ways: they can have a cracked porcelain insulator that causes the spark to go to the engine block rather than the tip to ignite the fuel; they can get loaded up with debris that inhibits a good, consistent spark; the electrode can erode away; or they can get damaged on installation so that the gap is way too small. I'm sure there are other things but that's what came to mind.



I agree, for the inexpensive cost of a rotor and cap (~$50 combined), now is the time to change them. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes for your mechanic, maybe 20 for you (you must keep the plug wires in the proper order on the cap).
Thanks for the info. I get the car back Thursday and I can cheeck the rotor & cap.

I am curious how a plug just stops working. Hopefully he saved the spark plug and it shows something.
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Old Nov 12, 2024 | 09:31 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by LenWoodruff
Thanks everyone for all of you ideas/support.

I just got a call from my mechanic. He said it was a bad spark plug in #4. They changed it and the engine is back to normal.

Not sure what makes a plug go bad but this one did.
awesome…the ole tune up..

can you comment n what were the plugs?
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 07:39 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by interpon
awesome…the ole tune up..

can you comment n what were the plugs?
I have aluminum Edelbrock heads.They require the long reach plugs with compression gaskets. Not sure the exact number.
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Old Nov 13, 2024 | 09:03 AM
  #60  
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Some of us had trouble with a bad batch of NGKs.
There were also some fake NGKs going around.
But I had 3 out of a dozen fail.

Most of those NGK issues were resolved a while back.
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