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I'm working on a 1982 CE and noticed the trailing arm has rusted completely through, so I'm going to replace both sides with new trailing arm assemblies. But I can't get the rear shock mount out of the spindle housing. As you can see from the photo, I have the nut loose and have been beating on it with a 4lb sledge hammer and it won't budge. Maybe the obvious answer is to get a bigger hammer unless anyone has another suggestion. BTW, it took a breaker bar and a 30" cheater pipe to break the nut loose.
Have you tried using Kroil or a 50% mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid? Keep reapplying. There is a tool you can purchase from the Corvette vendors that fits over the threads and will not deform the mount. Heat will also help. On my 68 I took the bearing hub off and mounted it in a 20 ton press and it finely came off. Good luck. Jerry
From you local auto parts store get some PB Blaster or if they carry it, Kroil. These are both penetrating oils. Allow these to soak for some time. I would apply them twice a day for a week and then use a rivet gun (Preferred) or an air hammer. The shocking effect of the gun or hammer is a key ingredient. Heat is also a great idea. If you have access to an acetylene torch, heat the mount up and use the hammer (with the thread protector mentioned above) and keep applying this method.
Patience is your friend here. The above is not going to work the first time. You may need a half dozen attempts but eventually it will come free.
Kroil is the best but not usually found as easy as Blaster, and costs a lot.
The sleeve in the bushing is most likely rust seized to the shock mount. The mount is junk and the rod maybe too. Heat may help but it has to be hotter than propane.
Yours may be so locked on you may have to cut it out. I had pictures of that up for years, but I think those are gone now. However, there is a YouTube video where a guy made up a press tool for this problem and it worked. I don't have a link to it, someone send it to me in the recent past, but you should be able to find it. I would give it a try. I've had TA sent to me with seized rods still attached. working on the bench is easier than on the car.
John@scc
If you are writing about the lower shock mount then try using a pickle fork and BFH as shown in this video. I did mine this year and I was dreading that it would not come out.... had my oxy-acetylene rig ready to go but they actually came out!! I had never removed them in 40 years either. I say give it a try...
Don't beat on that nut anymore or you might ruin the threads totally...... I only tapped on my nut for effect and just hammered on the pickle fork.
Of course....if it does not work you can always to to the oxy-acetylene route....
There is a steel sleeve, on the strut rod, that rusts and "welds" itself to that shock mount, over it's 1-1/2" length.
Best bet is squirt the PB Blaster along the bolt threads, so maybe it will work it's way deep inside.
I love the version with nozzle flow control built in. It helps you make less of a mess!
Since that trailing arm is not rebuildable and cannot be used as a core, it might be easier to just cut the bolt and remove the strut rod. Since you are doing the trailing arms, might as well replace the bushings in the strut rods also or get adjustable strut rods. Shock mounts are around $40 a piece so it depends on if you are in a rush or not and if your time is more valuable then your money.
Thanks Jerry, I'll see if I can find some Kroil today and give it a try. I'm not worried about the mount, I have a pair ordered already. The only parts I do want to keep and reuse are the original strut rods... so I don't want to damage those if I don't have to. Thanks again!
There is a steel sleeve, on the strut rod, that rusts and "welds" itself to that shock mount, over it's 1-1/2" length.
Best bet is squirt the PB Blaster along the bolt threads, so maybe it will work it's way deep inside.
I love the version with nozzle flow control built in. It helps you make less of a mess!
I happen to have a can of that, so I'll try that also. Thanks
John@scc
If you are writing about the lower shock mount then try using a pickle fork and BFH as shown in this video. I did mine this year and I was dreading that it would not come out.... had my oxy-acetylene rig ready to go but they actually came out!! I had never removed them in 40 years either. I say give it a try...
Don't beat on that nut anymore or you might ruin the threads totally...... I only tapped on my nut for effect and just hammered on the pickle fork.
Of course....if it does not work you can always to to the oxy-acetylene route....
I noticed in the video he has adjustable strut rods, which tells me his shock mounts were out prior at some point. Mine have never been out as far as I know. The reason I think this is that one of the upper strut rod bolts snapped off when I tried to take it loose. I appreciate your response, but I don't think the pickle fork method will work in my case. I'm hoping if I saturate it enough with penetrating oil and wait patiently, it will eventually knock out. Thanks again!
Kroil is the best but not usually found as easy as Blaster, and costs a lot.
The sleeve in the bushing is most likely rust seized to the shock mount. The mount is junk and the rod maybe too. Heat may help but it has to be hotter than propane.
Yours may be so locked on you may have to cut it out. I had pictures of that up for years, but I think those are gone now. However, there is a YouTube video where a guy made up a press tool for this problem and it worked. I don't have a link to it, someone send it to me in the recent past, but you should be able to find it. I would give it a try. I've had TA sent to me with seized rods still attached. working on the bench is easier than on the car.
I can't say. I can say, some off the ones I have sent in required cutting the rod as the mount was locked on so tight nothing was breaking it loose. If you find the video I mentioned it might work for you with Kroil soaking in a few days.
John@scc
Try it. You can't lose anything. And it's better than beating on the bolt / nut.
Mine had NOT been separated for over 40 years.
Originally Posted by John@scc
I noticed in the video he has adjustable strut rods, which tells me his shock mounts were out prior at some point. Mine have never been out as far as I know. The reason I think this is that one of the upper strut rod bolts snapped off when I tried to take it loose. I appreciate your response, but I don't think the pickle fork method will work in my case. I'm hoping if I saturate it enough with penetrating oil and wait patiently, it will eventually knock out. Thanks again!
Mapp Gas is not going to be hot enough. The issue is what GTR said earlier, it is the steel sleeve inside the bushing that is rusted to the shock mount. You are not going to be able to get that sleeve hot enough to break it loose and if you heat the shock mount up hot enough to get the sleeve hot you are just going to ruin your tool and the mount. The best way to get this out is to use a sawzall and cut on the inside of the mount through the shock mount. That will probably likely be the fastest way with out all an out tearing everything up.
Hi Gary,
Here's the YouTube video I sent to you. https://youtu.be/OlicmMAxGoU?si=UXPVzfF-O1kDht6g
I'll be in touch soon about having you set up the spindle support with new bearings on my '71.
Ron
I would try a few cycles of heating the part and soaking it in Kroil oil and cooling off. ATF and Acetone are supposed to make a good mixture that helps break things loose. Kroil is available at Amazon and I keep a can on hand at all times. It is an amazing product and I use it often around my home and shop.
Heating the part up doesn't mean red hot. The trick is to have the threads as clean as possible, then heat up the bolt until it is too hot to the touch and apply Kroil to the threads and the metal should draw the oil into the joint. I might suggest that you do this 3-4 times before trying to remove the bolt again.
Anti-seize is an awesome product for applications like this. After removing my trailing arms I remember using lots of anti-seize during the re-assembly. When something is stuck/rusted together or appears like it might be stuck I go straight to the Kroil and Heat. It has been working for me for over 50 years now and I don't see any end.
Mapp gas with the right burner tip is able to get hot enough to draw in the oil, we are not trying to cut the part off. I use Mapp gas to braze and solder around my home. I have Oxy-Acetylene Torch but that get used very seldom as it is too hot. I use it for silver soldering parts.
Rear Shock mount seized
