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I've got a Gen I Chevy 350 that needs replacement cylinder heads. I purchased a pair of FloTek FLK102-505FT heads (picture is below). Anyway, the person that was going to help me with this fell ill and I'm not sure he'll be able to assist at all. I'm a rookie on this stuff so I'm going to take it one step at a time. Here's my questions:
1. What is the torque on the rocker studs? Should I use blue lock tight?
2. What look like puzzle pieces are under the rocker studs...they are slotted. How do I determine where they should be placed so that the pushrods operate properly?
3. Should I go over the block holes with a tap or a chase before I bolt the heads on? The one bolt I checked is 7/16". Are they all that size? and what size tap or chase should I get.
4. Does the head gasket have a top and bottom?
5. I've got new ARP headbolts and I believe they come with sealant. What is the torque and what is the sequence?
That's a lot of questions I know and to many of you this is elementary stuff...but not to me so I appreciate any inputs. Here's the picture.
By the way the bottom end looks good. All I'm doing is replacing the heads.
1. What is the torque on the rocker studs? Should I use blue lock tight?
2. What look like puzzle pieces are under the rocker studs...they are slotted. How do I determine where they should be placed so that the pushrods operate properly?
3. Should I go over the block holes with a tap or a chase before I bolt the heads on? The one bolt I checked is 7/16". Are they all that size? and what size tap or chase should I get.
4. Does the head gasket have a top and bottom?
5. I've got new ARP headbolts and I believe they come with sealant. What is the torque and what is the sequence?
1. Chevy says 50#/ft. for rocker studs.
2. Those are pushrod guide plates. I've never had to adjust them.
3. YES. Use a thread chaser in each hole to clean the threads. Don't use a tap as you don't want any thread cutting action, just cleaning (and truing if needed). Put regular grease on the chaser to help collect debris that gets cleaned off the threads. I believe all of the head bolts are the same thread sizing. I picked up an Imperial/metric chase set from Amazon, $45, not fancy. Looks like this:
4. Head gaskets only have a top or bottom if they are marked as such. Many (most?) are not specific.
5. Torque sequence and setting is easily found with a google search or Chev. Overhaul Manual (edit: my '72 overhaul manual says small block = 65#/ft for heads 7/16" bolts (95#/ft if 1/2" bolts), 30#/ft for intake manifold). Do both sequences in 2-3 steps working through the sequence up to the final torque value. It's a good idea to retorque heads and intake after a few heat cycles.
Last edited by barkingrats; Mar 20, 2025 at 11:01 PM.
i did the those heads last year. big difference in power that being said. 1. the ARP bolts comes with a lubricant for the threads it’s not a sealant it’s to help achieve proper torque without messing up the threads it’s also advised to put a little underneath the head of the bolts.
2. there are many articles online about proper rocker arm alignment with valve stems i suggest you research that extensively as it will destroy the valves an rockers if not properly done and that’s what the guide plates are for to keep the rocker in place. i used the flotek suggested roller rocker an sequence for adjustment an on ther website they have the torque specs as they are different the stock heads.
All the head bolts go into water jackets. You need some kind of sealant on the threads. There is 3 different lengths of head bolts. Shortest ones are obvious. Middle length go in the furthest hole out on the head ends. Those pushrod guideplates are adjustable, if needed. Is bolt torque spec the same for aluminum heads? Go with what the manufacturer recommends. And use the head gaskets they recommend.
Absolutely use sealant on head bolts, Absolutely clean the threads in the block, not a tap, but thread cleaners as posted above. Absolutely follow the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL as per torque and procedures.
I recall ARP has a white squeeze tube of Thread Sealant just for their head bolts.
Where I found it? IDK Maybe Summit. Check Amazon / EBay.
Find a copy of Gen 1 SBC Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Sequence somewhere on the net.
If you have a printer at home, set it to landscape so the 8 x 11 will be sideways & easy to follow. You will lay that copy in the lifter valley as you torque bolts.
I went one step further and laminated the copy. (stain proof)
On aluminum heads, I highly recommend torquing bolts in five steps. A little more work, but no worries of stress cracks.
First step would: just snug with a ratchet. Then find the manufactures maximum torque and divide by four equal steps.
Your valve-lash is all set, valve covers are ready, but first, pour some break-in oil all over the valvetrain.
Aluminum heads do not use the same bolt torque as steel heads. Check on Google for proper torque for the thread size in aluminum. The intent of bolt torque is to get the joint in tension and you don't want to exceed the tensile strength of the aluminum, just because the fastener is steel.
GM torque specs were for iron heads.
I appreciate everyone's input... A lot to learn here but I'll get there if I take it slow and don't rush. Question: My FelPro head gaskets are marked "top". I get that but I just want to verify that the metal cylinder rings on the middle two cylinders of the gasket that's connected go on the bottom towards the block.
Replacing Cylinder Head - Need some guideance
