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I've installed remanufactured power steering components including pump, valve, cylinder and hoses. I didn't see any problems as I was connecting the valve to the pitman arm. But as you can see from the photos the rubber boot was destroyed at some point. I loosened the castle nut just to make the damage more visible in the photos. Initially it was torqued to specs. Apparently I didn't have the ball stud and valve body aligned to mate properly with the pitman arm. I assume the stud should be perpendicular to the valve body and the body rotated slightly for the flat surface of the pitman arm hole to be parallel with the body. Correct?
I discovered this before driving the car. There's no fluid leaking, so I don't suspect any damage to the internal seals. I know I can purchase replacement boot and metal strap. However, I don't know that it's possible to tightly secure a new strap around the valve while it's mounted. Has anyone ever accomplished this without completely removing the valve?
I've included a clip of a photo of the boot and strap shown in the Service Manual as a "service replacement." This style would certainly be more easily installed. Unfortunately, I haven't found such a clamp/strap at any of the vendors I've searched. Anyone know of a source?
Thanks,
Mike
That boot is a dust boot to keep dirt out of that ball joint in there. There is no fluid there. Well, there shouldn't be any fluid there.
Until you put up that photo of the boot retaining strap with a nut and bolt. I had never before seem that. In real life or in a picture. Best of luck finding that.
That boot and the normal retaining strap I have only been able to find by purchasing a complete rebuild kit for the control valve.
As per the vintage photo with the strap with a bolt. I think your totally out of luck.
In answer to the question about replacing the boot and retaining strap while the valve is still mounted.
There would be no possible way to replace the boot without knocking the taper loose from the Pitman arm. And that is the hardest part! After that, I guess it's possible. But getting that strap tight. I'm thinking it would be heaps easier on the bench.
I had to replace that rubber boot on my original PS control valve, as a replacement just caused looseness in the steering. Getting that retaining strap tight is not super easy, I never even thought about trying to do it on the car.
Thanks for your replies 4-vettes. Of course I know the valve must be freed from the pitman arm. Shouldn’t be a real problem because the car hasn’t been out of my shop since the replacement. Just hoping someone could give me some optimism for doing this on the car. Not looking forward to disconnecting the hoses because there are no leaks after a few engine starts.
That part number will cover 63-82 but likely you will find the band style you have now...
Never know though? Good Luck!
Found several listed on ebay. Prices from $19.97 to $149 (both plus shipping). Another at $29.99 with free shipping. Let me think...maybe I'll try the latter.
Looks like the main part of that boot is fine; just the top portion is torn. Any thought of just cutting off the torn part of that boot and installing a regular ball-joint boot in its place with good flexible adhesive to adhere it to the lower boot portion? All you are trying to do is keep moisture and dirt out of the ball stud joint.
That's a possibility 7T1vette. I just ordered one of kits through ebay. If it doesn't appear to eliminate the need to remove the valve, I might try your suggestion. I did think about trying the miracle substance we've all seen on TV - FlexSeal. Well, maybe not.
That's a possibility 7T1vette. I just ordered one of kits through ebay. If it doesn't appear to eliminate the need to remove the valve, I might try your suggestion. I did think about trying the miracle substance we've all seen on TV - FlexSeal. Well, maybe not.
Sounds/looks like you are doing things “correct”, but if being judged is not a concern… there are many solutions (ways to skin a cat). 7T1vette’s solution, or others, until you want to take on the big task of disassembly and installation of that kit to get it back to “correct”.. Lot’s of rubber boot type things, strips of rubber, etc out there (hardware stores, auto parts supply stores) that could be secured with hose clamps, zip ties, etc. They even have, for rather cheap, metal zip ties on ebay and amazon, like would be used to secure exhaust wrap, etc. Best wishes with it!
Thanks for the backup ideas. I wasn't aware of such zip ties. Good to know. Not planning to have the car judged, but I've been trying to keep it as original as possible. I might could make a good argument with the judges to minimize the deduct using the photo of a service replacement in the Service Manual.
Certainly man! If you find a solution that works, with minimal effort please post up, or even if you go about it in a conventional way. I love learning from others. Mine came with all new steering stuff, but still in the boxes. May be a bit for me to get to that point, but want to know the ins and outs for when I do.
Previous owner had the a arms & cross shafts powder coated and new bushing put in and on before I bought it, but looking recently I found one of the new bushings is split. Kinda looks like your boot. Sooooo...I'm gonna be all up into that and the steering stuff. Joy!
In regards to the alignment of the stud to pitman arm, when you screwed the valve onto the steering rod did you align the pinch bolt hole with the flat on the rod?