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Hello....I have done some research and haven't been able to come to a conclusion. I am working towards and all original 68. I have the original engine (327), Muncie M20, and shifter that I need to put back in the car with a welded crossmember and body on. What would be the suggestion on how to attack this? Should I put the engine and trans in at the same time or separately? I was able to remove both in one piece without issue, however, i didn't have to deal with the the original shifter and shifter bracket. Also, at what point does the shifter bracket go in? Before the trans being installed or after? Much appreciated.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
After is easier if you dont have someone under the car guiding it. If you have a engine tilter it makes it easier, hood off and radiator and support out or tilted forward is the best way.
Built a gantry into my garage which makes life easy, buyingbthe Harbor freight one is also a good solution
Shifter and bracket go in after trans is in place.
And I believe it's MUCH easier to install together as opposed to putting the trans in after the engine. Getting the trans lined up and through the clutch and into the pilot bearing is a bugger with a welded in crossmember. I know, I've done it more than once. And it's never fun.
Thank you both. It all makes sense. Dumb question, but should I do it with the drive shaft in place or remove it before installing the engine/trans? Also, I have yet to find a good picture of the bracket install. Am I correct in the fact that the bracket for the shifter is not mounted to actual Muncie in any way and it is mounted to the frame/crossmember?
Having a destroyed lower back I tend to favor paying someone to do that job for me. A man has to know his limitations....
I watched as they re-installed my rebuilt engine at my local Corvette shop. It appeared to be easy with the right tools and the proper equipment. The mechanic had the transmission bolted to the engine when they put it in place as one part. This made it easy to get the 427 in place and centered. With 2 mechanics the engine/transmission went back in in less than an hour.
I tended to like to pull the engine with it's transmission attached to avoid any troubles with getting the clutch in afterwards. I have pulled and re-installed many engines and like using the center beam in the garage to support the engine/transmission with a chain hoist from above.
Removing a cylinder head is bad enough as they weigh about 125 lbs all by themselves. I know use a hoist for them as well. Those darn big blocks are heavy...
If you have someone underneath the car as the drivetrain is being installed, you COULD have the rear of the driveshaft already installed and just slide the front end in as the install is being made. But, for simplicity, you could just leave the driveshaft till last. If you do that, you start by sliding the rear end of the D/S up and to one side of the diffy, then work it forward to engage the front shaft/fork in the transmission. Once engaged, push it fully into the tranny and that will give you room to engage the rear joint in the differential.
I extended the arm on my cherry picker so it would reach. It wasnt capable of lifting together. The only hard part was getting a couple bolts in the scatter shield. With the stock bellhousing it was fairly simple. The sifter bracket bolts to the crossmember. Put that and the shifter in last. Change the positive battery cable when you have it out. One of the clamps is directly above the transmition.