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My car has been lowered a couple inches, which looks great but does scrap way too often. The other day I managed to put a small hole in my oil pan, right beside the drain plug. The oil pan is pretty dented, so I need to replace it. I'm curious if I can put on a lower profile one that might give me another inch of clearance, but I know nothing about oil pans to know if this is an option and if it will cause any issues with engine. I have the original motor that has been stroked.
Also, how do I determine if my rear main is leaking, as this would be the time to replace it? My engine builder pulled the timing chain cover off to check the chain with the engine in the car, which required dropping the from of the oil pan. It was a fresh build, so he didn't pull the pan completely or replace the gasket. I have a few leaks and I'm not certain if it is the gasket or rear main. The rear main should have been changed with the rebuild, but I'm not happy with the builder or confident he didn't take a shortcut and didn't replace it. So how can I tell? Should I just replace it to be cautious?
Our Corvette's already have a lower profile oil pan than most Chevrolet's. How about picking the car up a tad. My car is lowered a bit. And as horrendous as the roads are over here in Australia. I've never hit my oil pan. My exhaust, well , numerous times. Having the car so low it looks like your springs are broken does not look good.
As per your oil leak. Get under it and look! Where is the oil coming from? While your changing your pan it would be the time to change that seal.
And next time, build your engine yourself! Then you will know what has been done!
My car is lowered and like Hig116 I usually scrap the exhaust. My pan is a Canton 6 quart road racing oil pan and has very scraped. Maybe give Canton a call to the technical specialist to find which is best for your application. I think Summit sells them.
Here's my pan. I'm questioning if it is the stock pan, with the drain on the side. I did measure it and it's 7.5" deep. Also, It was beat to Hell when I purchased it. I think this is the first time I have hit it and of course it put a hole right by the drain plug. Notice the drip. I thought it was just the plug dripping, but there is a small hole right beside the drain.
Here's my pan. I'm questioning if it is the stock pan, with the drain on the side. I did measure it and it's 7.5" deep. Also, It was beat to Hell when I purchased it. I think this is the first time I have hit it and of course it put a hole right by the drain plug. Notice the drip. I thought it was just the plug dripping, but there is a small hole right beside the drain.
if it is 7 /2" thats not the correct low profile pan if my memory serves me right. Should be about 7"overall if I remember right. I spent some time on this as im about to swap a 406 into my lowered 74. I intend on pulling the original pan I pulled off my l48 years ago when I swapped it to the 355 in the car now. I have other pans and they are only 1/2 to 3/4" deeper but that can mean all the difference. There are a number of 7 1/4" high capacity pans for racing out there. One concern is the stock power steering garbage hitting the pan but I swapped to a borgeson.and you seem to not have it either.
I have the base motor and I believe the drain plug should be in the back. The LT-1 had it on the side. Not surprising that this is probably not the original pan. At least the block is original.
I have the base motor and I believe the drain plug should be in the back. The LT-1 had it on the side. Not surprising that this is probably not the original pan. At least the block is original.
Keith
Yes mine plug it in the center in the back. a stock 350 pan looks like yours. I have a 400pan also which looks identical to yours and its 7.5"
That is not a "Corvette" pan. Its a generic replacement.
The early '70's "Corvette" 4 quart pan is not as deep and the sump is longer front to back so get the right "Corvette" pan and Corvette specific oil pan pickup. You will gain some extra clearance. Click below.
That may put a damper on a otherwise huge selection of oil pans.
Take a peek at Summit Racing.
Somewhere on the app for pans it will ask you if the block is stroked. That may or may not affect the side rails of the pan.
You can get a road race style "kick out" pan that is pretty shallow. Just look on Summit at all the choices. Keep as much oil capacity as possible and get the correct pickup. If going aftermarket make sure it clears the stock starter if that's what you have.
I didn’t think about the oil pan not working if the motor is stroked. It was stroked when I bought it, so I don’t know anything about it. How can I determine what I need? It’s a 383. I ordered a stock oil pan that I may need to cancel now. Ugh.
Getting mixed messages here compared to post #1. Stock motor, has to be stroked.
Now you say 383. Not stock motor.
Those engines that have been stroked have a longer swing of the crankshaft, than stock.
That longer swing of the ends of the connecting rods, may actually strike the block.
Old tricks were to grind on the block to clear the Con-Rods. That grinding took place where the oil pan resides.
You are fine. The stock pan will 100% work with the 383. I have one on my car including the LT-1 windage tray. Corvette pan clears close to the bottom of the bellhousing.
Getting mixed messages here compared to post #1. Stock motor, has to be stroked.
Now you say 383. Not stock motor.
Those engines that have been stroked have a longer swing of the crankshaft, than stock.
That longer swing of the ends of the connecting rods, may actually strike the block.
Old tricks were to grind on the block to clear the Con-Rods. That grinding took place where the oil pan resides.
Did you order the wrong pan? IDK
That was an error/typo on my part that I just corrected. It should have said “original motor that has been stroked.” Thanks for pointing that out.
You are fine. The stock pan will 100% work with the 383. I have one on my car including the LT-1 windage tray. Corvette pan clears close to the bottom of the bellhousing.
Low profile oil pan
