Hey everyone,

Im having trouble with keeping my 350 started, a couple weeks ago I purchased and installed new plugs, wires, rotor and cap, and I was able to start it up fine and it ran good. All the sudden a couple days later it doesn’t start, didn’t touch it or anything. I’ve been screwing around with timing and fuel but can’t get it to stay started, it will fire a couple times when I’m cranking but then dies. I’m certain the distributor is installed correctly and it does have fuel when I hit the throttle. Any suggestions on what it could be.
p.s I am new to this stuff so any advice helps

thanks

 

I'll try to help here. So, I looked at your profile as you don't say what we are working on here. Nothing on your profile either. So, let's guess by your user name that you have a 77 and it's not the year of your birth and your working on a 68.
OK, so, a 77. Let's guess that after nearly 50 years it's all factory stock and original.
As you can see, we are WAY out on a limb here.
A couple things to try. With air filter lid removed, open the choke plate by hand and wedge it open with something, (not a book of matches). Try cranking it with the choke held open. Anything? Try spraying a bit of starting fluid or carburetor cleaner into the bore of the carb. Now spin it. Does it fire on the starting fluid or carb cleaner?
if it does, your issue is with the carburetor. Still doesn't fire??
issue is with the ignition. Perhaps a bad module or a failing coil?
Try those couple things and get back to us.

 

Okay, sorry I just made my account so I will add that in my profile, but I bought it off my uncle and it’s a 1973 with a 350, not to sure of what modifications the motor has but positive it isn’t stock, Holley 4160, edelbrock intake, stock distributor body with a Mallory unilite module that’s what I know. And they were all installed by him. I will try those things tomorrow thank you for the reply

 

It sounds like it could be an air and/or fuel issue...

Does the choke flap move freely? It should appear completely closed but open about 1/4" upon cold starting.
Try pouring a couple of shots of fresh fuel directly down the carb, try to start it, and see if it runs a little longer.

Please post a pic from each side of the top of the engine without the air cleaner, someone might spot something amiss.

 

Lots of differences between a modified 73 and a stock 77.
At any rate, Welcome to the forum we are still here to help.
Give those simple things a try. Report back. The first step is to determine what is causing the issue. Then we can get to fixing it.

 

Hi sorry for the late response, I tried the things you guys said and it still wouldn’t stay started, I’m finding that when I pump the gas before cranking the car it will fire and try to start but dies like if it was only firing on the gas pumped through the power valve. I tested the fuel pump and it works great. Tried with the chocked fully open, nothing even tried fully closed still nothing. Is there a trick between throttle movement and cranking that I don’t know.

thanks

 

Also just took this video of when I don’t pump the gas before cranking

 

Did you try spraying starter fluid or carb cleaner into the carburetor? Did it fire on that?

 

Hmmmm... so the engine quickly stalls no matter how much goosing with the throttle? I don't know if any of the following is the solution, but it may lead to a better understanding of the issue.

Yellow arrow: I think the throttle spring attachment is a little wonky. Can they be connected to the cable bracket at the yellow arrow? The slack in the cable should probably be lessened a bit - seems that in its current state it would have a hesitation.
Red arrow: On each side of the forward float bowl, count the number of clockwise turns to gently bottom out the idle mixture screws. Roughly speaking they should be about 1.5 to 3 turns to touch bottom. If you add and average the turns from each side and they are in that 1.5 to 3 range, return them to where they were. Make them equal if they weren't, for example, if one was 3 turns and the other 1 turn, back them each out 2 turns. If they were less than 1 turn each, back them each out 2 turns as a starting point.
White arrow: The end of the screw should be pushing some amount on the lever. If it's not, turn it in until it touches plus 1 turn. This is just for testing as the idle needs to be set after getting the engine operational.

[edit One last thought: hold the key on "start" to see if it will stay running. If it does but dies when you release the key to "on" then it's an ignition switch or ballast/resistance wire problem.]

 

Grondin,

I have seen this scenario before with the old points & condenser system.
But I don't remember the fix.

When you are cranking the IGN system is getting so many volts.
When it fires-up and you let go of the key, it gets a different voltage sent to the distributor.

Anyone? Anyone? Bueler? Bueler? Anyone?

And if you have excellent & paid fire insurance, leave that plastic fuel filter in place.

 

yes I did, it acted the same with a little more pop at the start then continued like the video

 

I will re arrange the cable and springs tomorrow and see if it changes, but I have the screws in the side a 1.5 turns out and the throttle screw at 1 turn out. At one point it would only fire when I’m I turn the key to start, then when I let go it dies, but with me trying different stuff it doesn’t really do that.

 

Have you checked the ignition switch and the connections, and how are the connections on the starter ignition harness?

 

I have not, just assumed it was okay since it cranks over good, but I will check it tomorrow

 

Please understand that I don't download videos. So, if it acted the same. The issue is clearly spark.

 

Can you verify that you have power to your distributor when the key is in the 'run' position? This car should be 'new' enough to have had an HEI distributor, which did away with the resistance wire, but if an old-school guy got in there, who knows how it's wired.
Sounds like you're getting the full 12v from the (purple?) wire coming up from the starter to the (coil/distributor) but then goes away when you release the key from the 'start' position. So it will kick off when the starter is engaged, but then die when released.

So, just make sure you're getting full 12v power to your coil/distributor with the key in 'run' and in 'start'

Good luck!

 

I also have a Mallory/Accel ignition module.
You stated you replaced the rotor.
If you over tighten the nuts holding the rotor you will crack the shutter wheel in the distributor.
Remove the cap and rotor and examine the rotor wheel.

 

I will test to see if there power to the coil and let you know, for the rotor wheel is that the silver disc underneath the rotor and above the Mallory unit?

 

Yes, in my case it's black plastic, 2 pieces, with 8 slots. You are sure it's Mallory?
Also 73 never had HEI, points from the factory, you have 12v cranking but have a resistor wire for run. If you never touched the positive terminal of the coil it would be unusual for something to have suddenly changed.

 

He's got a '73 with non-HEI. (I believe HEI began in '75)