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First time poster. I am one month out from putting an LQ9 into my 1969 Corvette. I am looking for what gauges I can use for this build.
The man that is doing the swap said that Dakota digital was really the best option, but I wanted to see if there was anything else that was fairly plug-in play with the LS computer and C3 Instrument bezels.
I love autometer gauges, is it tough to get those for this build?
I just put Dakota Digital VHX series in my LS swapped Ford Ranger. I have to say I am super impressed by them both in looks and function. Plus USA made and lifetime warranty.
I used to hate Dakota Digital because everything looked like it was 1990s but that doesn't have to be the case anymore!
I will say, NOT CHEAP lol.
ALSO if you are going to be running a GM PCM and I think they do Holley as well they sell a secondary module that will read the gauge info right off the PCM so you don't need a bunch of add on sensors on the engine.
Autometer gauges will work. I use a GPS module for the Speedo, VSS signal from ECU for Tach, for Oil PSI gauge install the sender above oil filter, temp sender in passenger head for coolant gauge.
This will allow the ECU to read the factory LS oil pressure and Coolant temp sensors in stock locations.
I have used Auto Meter gauges on all my LS swaps. Always have worked great. No GPS speedo. Just calibrate the speedo per the Auto Meter speedo instructions. Tach set at 4 cylinder at the back of the tach dip switches.
Oil pressure as said above. Gas gauge wired into the stock wiring. Volt gauge wired into a clean 12 volt signal. Water temp senor tapped into the right rear cylinder head port.
Pic of my 71 C3 LS swap gauges. Yeah they need that bit of work to fit in.
A few pics of my 71 C3 LS swap, 68 C10 LS swap and my 80 Camaro LS swap with Auto Meter gauges.
Dakota digital gauges are expensive. Do a google search for gauges and you may find some other options. I went with Intellitronix digital gauges and have been very happy . They came with senders as needed. I also made them plug and play using aftermarket connectors and soldered them I did have to give up the clock, but it wasn't all that accurate anyway.
Good luck on your choice.
I have used Auto Meter gauges on all my LS swaps. Always have worked great. No GPS speedo. Just calibrate the speedo per the Auto Meter speedo instructions. Tach set at 4 cylinder at the back of the tach dip switches.
Oil pressure as said above. Gas gauge wired into the stock wiring. Volt gauge wired into a clean 12 volt signal. Water temp senor tapped into the right rear cylinder head port.
Pic of my 71 C3 LS swap gauges. Yeah they need that bit of work to fit in.
A few pics of my 71 C3 LS swap, 68 C10 LS swap and my 80 Camaro LS swap with Auto Meter gauges.
So the auto meters won’t go straight into the bezels? How did you make them fit? They look super flush. Thank you so much for all the info.
Stock temperature, oil pressure and ammeter or voltmeter work fine. I added AFR and fuel pressure, what special thing is it that you think you need?
I considered changing the face on the new gauges to match the stock look but had other better things to do. This is a carb'd motor when you look at the fuel pressure gauge.
Yeah, good points. The autometer set that I’m looking at is $850 for the 6 piece, and Dakota is $1500-$2000 for the 6 piece. Kind of crazy.
For reference I paid 1200 out the door factory direct for my VHX setup with the LS BIM module but it is Mustang SN95 fitment and not C3. Do they have a specific C3 kit? 2k sounds like their highest end line.
Stock temperature, oil pressure and ammeter or voltmeter work fine. I added AFR and fuel pressure, what special thing is it that you think you need?
I considered changing the face on the new gauges to match the stock look but had other better things to do. This is a carb'd motor when you look at the fuel pressure gauge.
I’ve just heard they aren’t super compatible with the LS computer, you need adaptors and stuff. And I’ve heard you need to do some special stuff for fitment. Dakota just fits right in apparently.
Temperature, pressure and electricity are pretty basic parameters. We all know what they mean. If the transducers ("senders" in car parlance) match what the gauge reads, what else is there to know? I am not at all sure what you are after besides that? As to the "LS computer", I don't know what that is. I suppose if there is some sort of internal digitization, and you want to tap into some internal representation, you need a special gauge. I have no idea what the benefit is. All of my gauges work from some direct sensing element (transducer) on the block.
Another option is to go with a completely digital display and replace all of your center gauges. EDIT: Your speedo should still work. You'll need to swap to an electric tach, but you can do that without changing the gauge face.
So I sold the 71 about 8 years ago so I'm working by memory which is a bit scary. LOL.
Yes I had to trim the speedo and tach holes to fit the gauges. Same with the console gauges.
The speedo and tach get their signal from the LS ECM. No adapters.
The oil and water gauges are plumbed into the LS block with the Auto Meter gauge senders. Water sensor to right cylinder head. Oil pressure sensor sender I drilled and tapped the stock block just above the oil filter. Kind of a goofy somewhat oval shaped thing bolted to the block.
The volt meter gauge just needs a clean 12 volt pos signal.
Fuel gauge is wired to the stock fuel gauge/tank wires. Make sure you order the correct ohm gauge and I believe it's 90 ohm?
As far as costs? Yes just about every hot part is almost double? from 5 years ago.
I run the stock gauges on my 78 with a 5.3 and a turbo. Holley term X outputs an old tach signal so stock tach works, speedo is cable driven by 700r4 so works fine. The LS coolant temp sensor is the same as the stock so get the early 3 wire version and one wires goes to gauge and the other for the ECU. Oil pressure put stock sender above oil filter. Battery and gas is separate and not a problem. I removed the clock and added the oil temp gauge and I’m using that as a trans temp gauge.
everything for the term X uses factory LS sensors or I recommend using 100psi transducers for things like
oil pressure and fuel pressure but that’s just for the termX if you want it (for logging etc). Holley transducers are overpriced, low dollar motorsports is great quality and affordable but even the Amazon/ebay work too. I prefer the low dollar bc I know they are good and not much more money than the Amazon stuff.
Last edited by 78vette5.3; Apr 27, 2025 at 12:01 PM.
One more comment in regards to LS swaps. You need to have really good clean grounds. Battery neg cable direct to the engine block. Engine block to the car frame. Also clean grounds for for the rest of the car.
One more comment in regards to LS swaps. You need to have really good clean grounds. Battery neg cable direct to the engine block. Engine block to the car frame. Also clean grounds for for the rest of the car.
ground from batt to block is a bit much. Clean grounds yes but stock ground from batt to frame and then nice thick ground from motor to frame. I added a a new ground from the birdcage to the frame as well on both sides in the engine bay to be safe. Always use OFC and some solid 8-10 gauge for the cage to frame and 0-2 gauge from the motor to frame and call it good. Another is the charging wire, I generally do a 4 gauge from the alt to battery either at a junction stud or the starter (which gets it right from the battery). 4 gauge at 6ft or so can handle a good bit of amps more than 140 continuous. I always put a resettable circuit breaker between the alt and the battery and I also like to do a main fuse at the battery or a circuit breaker at the battery which allows ground kill to whole car in case of an overload and doubles as a battery cutoff if you get the ones with the lever. I usually do 100-120 amps if running an alternator or 200-250 on the main battery cutoff. For the ECU main power ground go to the battery or a new clean connection at a remote junction right off the battery in the engine bay. Bluesea fuse panels are real nice and you could rewire the whole LS swap off one of those vs using the old stock circuits.
I can't say this as absolute fact, but I'm pretty sure a lot of modern cars have the neg battery cable going to the block.
That is how I have my current LS swapped daily and that is how the chassis was originally configured.
most manufactures have the battery under the hood so it’s short and easy. On the C3 the battery is not under the hood and if you run good cables and connections the resistance is almost nothing. If you want to run another cable in the tunnel which is super tight be my guest but honestly not really needed.
i have two cars with LS swaps, both have rear mounted batteries and no ground to the engine to the battery.
Gauges for LS swap
