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starter bogs when hot

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Old Apr 26, 2025 | 04:49 PM
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Default starter bogs when hot

Greetings. My '78 Vette has a 383 in it. Starts very well when cold. After driving for 30 minutes or so it barely starts. Starter bogs, I have headers. Would it make sense if I were to put a Ford starter solenoid in the engine bay? Also, I could wrap the headers with heat shield. The starter, alternator and battery seem fine. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Apr 27, 2025, 07:49 PM
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The real problem with the Vettes experiencing hot-soak starter problems is the length of the battery cable and the size of the cable. Over the years, many of the cables have been replaced with "standard" automotive cables, which are 4-gauge or 2-gauge. The Corvette cables, due to the length, must be "0" gauge minimum, with "00" even better. Check your cable gauge and make sure you have "0" gauge cables or bigger.

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Old Apr 26, 2025 | 05:53 PM
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Would it make sense to add a Ford starter relay, No.
would it make sense to wrap your headers. That's never a good idea.
Is the starter heat shield in place?
Another good idea is a later model mini starter or gear reduction starter. Also with appropriate heat shield.
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Old Apr 26, 2025 | 07:15 PM
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ecpirate,

Those headers get mighty hot and come might close to the starter.

Look on Summit Racing for Starter Heat Wraps. I think Cool-It makes one as does Thermal Tech?
Insulated, foil laminated blanket that comes with two stainless band clamps. Wrap the starter in such a way that the end piece of the wrap is pointing towards the ground.
(In the event the wrap ever collects motor oil, it will drain easily)

You could go one step further and insulate the starters wire harness also. The tube / sleeve comes in three feet lengths, cut to desired length.
The wires will need to be removed from the solenoid to slip the insulated sleeve over the wires.

And if you are feeling really ambitious, remove the starter, and on your workbench swap out the solenoid for a heavy-duty unit. (NAPA)
The end cap is brown in color, indicating its ceramic. Handles heat much better.
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Old Apr 26, 2025 | 10:56 PM
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NAPA online offers a heavy-duty starter 10MT.
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Old Apr 26, 2025 | 11:24 PM
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Id stress test the battery and throughly check/clean the battery cables/connections, the connections at the starter and the grounds.
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Old Apr 27, 2025 | 08:35 AM
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Thanks for all the good suggestions. I've ordered starter heat wrap. Also, i'll check all connections.
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Old Apr 27, 2025 | 11:03 AM
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If you do end-up removing the solenoid wires:
Take a photo first.
Then mark / tag all wires with masking tape & a Sharpie where they came from and go back to.

Some solenoids have four posts for wires.
Don't get it wrong.
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Old Apr 27, 2025 | 07:34 PM
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Do you still have the original style starter in it?
They are very susceptible to heat soak, especially from headers.
It is because they use an electro-magnet, powered by 12v, that loses power when hot. As the large copper windings expand from heat.

The newer style mini-starters use permanent magnet motors, Usually rare earth.
This style is much stronger, and do not suffer from heat soak.
Many of them are gear reduction as well, which greatly increases their power, and/or lets them be smaller.
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Old Apr 27, 2025 | 07:49 PM
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The real problem with the Vettes experiencing hot-soak starter problems is the length of the battery cable and the size of the cable. Over the years, many of the cables have been replaced with "standard" automotive cables, which are 4-gauge or 2-gauge. The Corvette cables, due to the length, must be "0" gauge minimum, with "00" even better. Check your cable gauge and make sure you have "0" gauge cables or bigger.

Lars
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Old Apr 28, 2025 | 08:44 AM
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Check all the wiring for sure. I had a similar issue with my 80 years and tried a number of solutions but never really fixed the problem 100%. Later found that the wire and or ignition switch could not supply enough current to the starter S terminal.

I pulled the wire from the S termianl and used it to energize a relay Id mounted on the firewall. Then connected a wire from the large battery terminal on the starter to one side of the relay and the other side back to the S terminal on the starter. No more issues.




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Old Apr 28, 2025 | 08:53 AM
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^ I had this problem also. Here are the mods I made to combat the slow turning starter. So the solenoid would engage but motor would turn slow when hot.

1. Replace engine to frame ground with new thicker cable
2. Replace starter with new style PMGR
3. Add additional ground strap on starter to frame
4. Upgrade new copper battery cables to 1/0

Now zero hot start issues and the car has headers with no heat shield on starter.
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Old Jun 5, 2025 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by lars
The real problem with the Vettes experiencing hot-soak starter problems is the length of the battery cable and the size of the cable. Over the years, many of the cables have been replaced with "standard" automotive cables, which are 4-gauge or 2-gauge. The Corvette cables, due to the length, must be "0" gauge minimum, with "00" even better. Check your cable gauge and make sure you have "0" gauge cables or bigger.

Lars
first thing I would check is the battery ground cable at thr frame attach point. Unbolt the cable, wire brush/ sand frame to bare metal. Same to cable end. Install new bolt n washer. Reattach. Now take some enamel and cover the whole cable end n attach bolt. This seals it from moisture.
A weak ground is more often than not an issue many ignore.
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Old Jun 6, 2025 | 12:30 AM
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Starter "heat soak" is NOT a real thing. But, getting inadequate current flow to it when the engine is hot is possible. But the cause is MOST LIKELY due to a missing/defective/rotted-wire grounding wire running from the frame to the engine motor mount. THAT is the source of electrical ground for the starter. Bad wire/connection/etc......poor starting. As engine heats up, so does the ground wire and that means higher resistance in the wire. If that ground cable is OLD, replace it. When you remove it, you will find why the starter wasn't getting adequate current when hot.
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Old Jun 6, 2025 | 07:50 AM
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If you have a slow cranking and you want to check the integrity of the cables between the battery and the starter a "voltage drop test" will reveal any issues with the cables whether they be bad, too small, or bad a connection. There's plenty of videos on YouTube on how to perform this test. Heat soak is a real thing and the bushings supporting the armature are the cause. When these bushings are worn the armature can rub the field magnets as the starter heats up.
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Old Jun 6, 2025 | 08:37 AM
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Stick a heat wrap on it first, that is cheap, easy, and usually works.
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Old Jun 6, 2025 | 10:30 AM
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How does heat affect wear in the starter bushings????? If it does anything, it would help to REDUCE clearance in those bushings. But, if you calculate the affect of heating of shaft journals and bushings when temps are increased 100*F, the change is negligible.

The C3 starter (GM's go-to for decades) was designed to handle engine compartment heat. If your car is having trouble starting when hot, look elsewhere for the problem.
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Old Jun 6, 2025 | 11:00 AM
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I thought I explained that earlier.
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
How does heat affect wear in the starter bushings?????
Originally Posted by Fly skids up!
When these bushings are worn the armature can rub the field magnets as the starter heats up.

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Old Jun 6, 2025 | 06:09 PM
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You need to bone-up on your heat transfer calculations. A 1/2" steel shaft will expand a grand total of less than one-thousandth of an inch when temperature is elevated 100*F. Somehow, I just don't think that's going to stall a starter...
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Old Jun 6, 2025 | 06:16 PM
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You need to bone-up on your starter knowledge. I worked in a auto electric shop rebuilding starters.
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Old Jun 6, 2025 | 06:20 PM
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OOooooo! I guess that makes you an expert. I should 'know my place'.
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