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This rust doesn’t look bad at all in the pictures.
It appears to be mostly surface rust.
It’s not perfect but you may never find a car without any rust in the body mount pockets of the birdcage.
I would closely inspect the areas around the windshield frame and under the t tops to see if there is any tell tale signs of major rust.
Surface rust is no big deal, but if you see big rust flakes and cancer holes that’s another story.
Doesn't look bad at all, in fact very good. A little clean up and some rust converter and put the kick panels back on.
How is the windshield frame part of the birdcage?
Take a screwdriver to scrape along the corners to clear away the flakes, then tap pretty firmly to get a feel for how solid the metal is. Of course, if it pokes through, it's a big concern. 100% agree to check the windshield frame above.
There is still a fair bit you can see if you make an effort to look close. Even with all moulding in place. And you can certainly see those lower corners which can be a real problem area.
To answer your question about condition, just from these two pics, I'd say "fair". A little more rust than I'd like to see, but no holes appear evident and the bolt heads aren't eroding away.
Use a flashlight from the outside to examine all around the windshield frame behind the outer edge of the glass. Also examine the structure around the VIN tag and rivets. If it's a coupe, pull off the t-tops and examine the chrome and stainless trim. If it appears to be swelled or separated at the overlap near the corner, I'd say there is major rust underneath. On a convertible you'd look for the same.
Doesn't look bad at all, in fact very good. A little clean up and some rust converter and put the kick panels back on.
How is the windshield frame part of the birdcage?
There was rust present on the windshield frame. The car sold recently on BAT but I didn't bid on it because of the rust.. I'm trying to figure out how much of a project I can handle. I've never done fiberglass body repair or paint. Plus I don't know how to MIG weld.. But I'm attempted to test my abilities.. The car sold for ~ $9400 which I think was a decent deal. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...ette-coupe-43/
To answer your question about condition, just from these two pics, I'd say "fair". A little more rust than I'd like to see, but no holes appear evident and the bolt heads aren't eroding away.
Use a flashlight from the outside to examine all around the windshield frame behind the outer edge of the glass. Also examine the structure around the VIN tag and rivets. If it's a coupe, pull off the t-tops and examine the chrome and stainless trim. If it appears to be swelled or separated at the overlap near the corner, I'd say there is major rust underneath. On a convertible you'd look for the same.
Thanks for the info! i'm still learning a lot about Corvette's.. I've done car projects before but not body removal, welding, and paint... But I'm tempted to test my skills and abilities..
Doesn't look bad at all, in fact very good. A little clean up and some rust converter and put the kick panels back on.
How is the windshield frame part of the birdcage?
There was rust on windshield frame. I'm learning that this is a common trouble area for Corvettes! If I do get a project car I'll be sure to buy a MIG welder and practice!
Thanks for the info! i'm still learning a lot about Corvette's.. I've done car projects before but not body removal, welding, and paint... But I'm tempted to test my skills and abilities..
Just my 2¢ from the BAT pics:
Overall, that's a complete and untouched car -- in all the good and bad ways. Everything is there but it needs everything restored, refinished, or replaced! (like upwards of $40k if farmed out to shops)
It appears to have spent it's life in a very moist environment but not on salted roads. Save the pics of the frame and underside - it's in very good condition and can stand as a model of what an unrestored frame and chassis should look like. I'd bet the chassis was covered in grease and oil, which is a positive for this car.
The rusted windshield frame is classic for what to look out for. That they removed the inside trim to show those pics is a testament to the honesty of showing warts and all.
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
On my car it is easy to get an idea of the top of the birdcage metal condition thru the glass with a mirror (inside) and flashlight (outside). Also there is the slam the doors a few times and see what falls on the floor technique. As for the pictures also agree in fair condition...kind of depends on what you want to do with the car. Have fun weekend driver...paint it with Por 15 to keep it from getting worse and enjoy. Restore it...big bucks and your time.
Last edited by Redvette2; Jun 2, 2025 at 10:14 PM.
Figured I'd post the pics here from the auction that pertain to the questions on birdcage rusting. Other than the lower corner by the VIN tag (those don't look like GM rivets, but the windshield looks original) the frame is in very good shape.
Threw in a few chassis pics too to show what looks to be in excellent condition.
Figured I'd post the pics here from the auction that pertain to the questions on birdcage rusting. Other than the lower corner by the VIN tag (those don't look like GM rivets, but the windshield looks original) the frame is in very good shape.
Threw in a few chassis pics too to show what looks to be in excellent condition.
It’s looking like I blew a good opportunity! It was close enough for me to take a look at. I think the $9400 price was reasonable!
Either the T-Tops leaked or the windshield itself did. Something doesn't look right with the goop applied to seal the windshield.
Under the VIN is your first clue of what is underneath on the "A" pillars. The cage is questionable, the bird flew the coop.
I see lots of money and time in tedious repairs of rust that someone may never want to finish.
Some grease monkey bent the strut rod because they couldn't get the cam bolt loose for a wheel alignment. Looks like somebody put a jack under the front cross member too.
Rust - rust - rust. The only thing not rusty is the fiberglass floors.
Look elsewhere and spend a little more money on a solid car.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; May 25, 2025 at 07:23 PM.
It’s looking like I blew a good opportunity! It was close enough for me to take a look at. I think the $9400 price was reasonable!
Maybe a good opportunity lost but only if you have the bank account and skills to match what's required. The car is complete but very, very rough and neglected. I would offer that this is a very good car to examine for future cars you come across. Examine the pics and ask questions for anything you don't understand. (The spacers below the rear spring bolts is not factory.)
I'm not sure what Heads U.P. is seeing as for rust: the frame and front and rear suspension all looks pretty good. There does not appear to be any flaky, crusty rust anywhere. The radiator support does look pitted but that, like jacking below the front cross member, is super common to see.
It is my opinion that this car has been a flood 'victim'. If it has been in a salt water flood, "Run Forrest, Run". If it has been in a fresh water flood, it's a crap-shoot. If it were me, I would take a pass.
I think some people are viewing the photos from their 2" cell phone screen.
Or, they need to switch their format from Black & White to Color on their computer.
Or, they need to make an eye appointment.
It looks terrible on a 10" laptop monitor.
The term surface rust is common with steel bodied cars from the 40s & 50s.
It should not be a term used for frame description of the 70s C3.
I agree, this frame has been in a river once or twice.
Dead fish in the spare tire carrier?
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Birdcage Condition
