When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This is the side yoke bearing failure damage. Is this repairable ? or is the housing damaged where a new bearing cannot be installed ? not sure if something has to be removed to install a new bearing ?
I would say, tear that down further. I can see a bearing race that doesn't look to bad. The outer surface doesn't look to bad. The damage behind the bearing race is in a place that doesn't matter. Let's see more.
If the bore is ovaled out and the axle bearing is not a press fit, it is no good. I can machine a sleeve, bore the housing and press it in but it's going to cost more than replacing the housing. That is some side loading, what axle bearing were you using, the caged or full complement?
If the bore is ovaled out and the axle bearing is not a press fit, it is no good. I can machine a sleeve, bore the housing and press it in but it's going to cost more than replacing the housing. That is some side loading, what axle bearing were you using, the caged or full complement?
The axle bearing I believe was the factory GM from 1978, this diff has never been overhauled other than side yoke replaced when to much play. as for caged or full complement ? not sure what this means. This is the factory diff, service done was oil changes, side yokes, & seals.
Looking at that picture again, it appears the steel case of the bearing is still in there. I would pull the posi case and tap it out, the bore may still be good.
I would take the diff apart, you blew out the side bearings and that is not common. I would check the posi case and axles. If it's a stock diff, you have been lucky. I would not run a stock diff with power and abuse.
I am betting the bore is still good.
I would be very selective of the parts used in it and what is sold today. Be very careful with some web site advertising.
I would take the diff apart, you blew out the side bearings and that is not common. I would check the posi case and axles. If it's a stock diff, you have been lucky. I would not run a stock diff with power and abuse.
I am betting the bore is still good.
I would be very selective of the parts used in it and what is sold today. Be very careful with some web site advertising.
The bearing got damaged from where the side yoke failed. The initial failure was the side yoke fracture at the bearing location.
I would take the diff apart, you blew out the side bearings and that is not common. I would check the posi case and axles. If it's a stock diff, you have been lucky. I would not run a stock diff with power and abuse.
I am betting the bore is still good.
I would be very selective of the parts used in it and what is sold today. Be very careful with some web site advertising.
How to remove the inner gear housing ? I have removed the bearing straps, but it doesn't slide out, am I missing something. Or as a Senior not strong enough. Any next steps to follow ?
How to remove the inner gear housing ? I have removed the bearing straps, but it doesn't slide out, am I missing something. Or as a Senior not strong enough. Any next steps to follow ?
This thread may be useful as i asked a lot of questions and got great answers. It comes out i ised wood dowel and pried
There is a pre-load applied to the bearings via 0.005” shims on each side. Carefully, but firmly, pull it straight out. Some will use a case spreader to facilitate removal and installation.
With the caps & axles out, the case is held in by preload. which varies from rebuilder to rebuilder. The nominal 005 ship preload as mentioned by 69L88 is only a reference area as the total preload is determined by the pinion preload. I see the original cast shims in place, they may snap reusing them with the correct preloading, you should use the common steel side shims.
There is a pre-load applied to the bearings via 0.005” shims on each side. Carefully, but firmly, pull it straight out. Some will use a case spreader to facilitate removal and installation.
No luck pulling. (not strong enough) what is a case spreader for a C3 diff look like. Not sure how it works ?
Last edited by cagotzmann; Jul 2, 2025 at 02:00 PM.
This is the style of carrier side shims someone mentioned.
It's a kit.
The top 2 pieces are the main shim "carrier" pieces that are relatively thick, and nest together.
Then you add the very thin shims, inside, as needed, to adjust the pattern and backlash.
But the carrier holds the thin shims inside, and is strong enough that you can tap it in at the very end, when you add that last .005" "tension" shim at the end on each side.
Tap with a brass hammer.
The factory GM shims are cast iron, 1 piece, and ground to fit, and go in the garbage can.
This is the style of carrier side shims someone mentioned.
It's a kit.
The top 2 pieces are the main shim "carrier" pieces that are relatively thick, and nest together.
Then you add the very thin shims, inside, as needed, to adjust the pattern and backlash.
But the carrier holds the thin shims inside, and is strong enough that you can tap it in at the very end, when you add that last .005" "tension" shim at the end on each side.
Tap with a brass hammer.
The factory GM shims are cast iron, 1 piece, and ground to fit, and go in the garbage can.
Yes mine are cast iron you can see in the picture. I tried the pry bar and did not come out. Next is the case spreader. or give this problem to a shop.
Put a box wrench on a ring gear bolt and turn the pinion, it will walk out the case until it clears the ring gear and you can use a pry bar at that time. I never use a spreader on these diffs as I don't like loading the iron. They can be correctly preloaded without a spreader but it is important to do it correctly or you will have issues with the diff.
Put a box wrench on a ring gear bolt and turn the pinion, it will walk out the case until it clears the ring gear and you can use a pry bar at that time. I never use a spreader on these diffs as I don't like loading the iron. They can be correctly preloaded without a spreader but it is important to do it correctly or you will have issues with the diff.
OK after many hours of $&#%&@!^% I finally got it out, but surprised on what I see. One side it different than the other ??. Not sure what to do next. I dont have a press and was thiinking I could hammer out something to remove the race ? But after looking not sure on the next step.
Whats the lip from ??? . This is the damaged side.
Is this diff repairable ?
