Can someone educate me on the cable/spring connection under the throttle linkage? And its function, how to adjust, etc…. Thanks guys.

 

Wow - that's quite the hack-job...

You are aware of the fact that someone has installed a non-correct, non-original, aftermarket carb on your car, and they have cobled up the linkage to try to make it functional using some parts they found in their uncle's barnyard... There is no "correct" way to install parts when you start customizing and altering your car - you need to have some knowledge about how to fabricate parts and how to come up with brackets and geometry that will work on the parts that were never intended to be used on your car.

You can install the throttle return springs in any configuration that produces adequate force to consistently and safely return the throttle to idle.

For the TH350 kickdown cable, you need to measure the position of the stock mounting stud on a correct, stock Q-Jet carb, and you need to duplicate that position and distance from the pivot point of the throttle lever. It is imperative that you reproduce the stock attach point travel distance from idle through wide open throttle, and that the cable attach point mimic the stock, original position. Once you have the position and travel (arc distance) duplicated, you can then do the Shop-Manual recommended adjustment procedure to the cable using the release and adjustment tab that is located on your stock cable bracket. You have some work to do. If you chose to modify your car with parts that were never intended for your car, you have to be able to fabricate and make things work. If you do not have the ability to do that, you need to put the car back to its correct, stock configuration. It will then work and operate as it should, and you can use the normal setup procedures as outlined in your shop manual.

Lars

 

What Lars said is totally correct.
If you plan to run this carburetor, it will take some research on your part to determine how to make the transmission kick down cable function correctly.
The two return springs will take less research and just a few minutes of trial and error.
Basically they are there to make sure that when you remove your foot from the throttle there is adequate force to pull the carburetor linkage all the way back to the idle position.
Two springs just in case one fails.
The throttle cable bracket and kick down bracket being used should get replaced with a proper type made for that carburetor and cable, and the rubber fuel feed line should be replaced because it’s a fire waiting to happen.
Do you know what carburetor that is?

 

I think Lars is pretty spot on.
The twin return springs are pretty basic.
The cable bracket looks like the original Quadrajet bracket that's been cut down and modified to work on the Holley. Nothing really wrong with that. Perhaps you could get some better looking springs however.
As per adjustment of a Automatic transmission. Well, I'd just yank that out and put in a manual with a third pedal.

 

Not a Quadrajet or a Holley, but a original 77 Quadrajet throttle cable bracket, modified of course. You can see how I have my safety return springs installed.
And no transmission kick down cable of course, but you can see where a stud for it could be installed if you wanted a slush box.

 

The GLASS Fuel Filter is the bigger problem in my mind. The glass breaks and you have a real mess on your hands. Why do people still use those type glass fuel filter's on engines that shake and rattle?

Using double clamps on fuel lines will make the line more secure but at least use the newer style fuel injection approved hose clamps. They provide a better seal and don't eat the hoses when over-tightened.

 

Thanks all.
I’m intrigued by all the things I have been finding as i delve into this project.
Where can i find a better fuel line, and what type of filter is best?
I need to research more on the kickdown cable.

 

I AM certified on that third pedal, by the way….LOL

 

Here are some measurements and a crude drawing...lol
Spring Location Length: From the bent tab of the throttle bracket to the centerline (C/L) of the throttle arm spring hole is 5.5"
It appears you have a unused 3/8x16 threaded hole just forward of the throttle arm...
On my stock iron intake that hole is 1.5" to C/L of throttle arm spring hole...
Find a 1x2" piece of aluminum angle... Drill a 13/32" hole in the short run of the angle to mount bracket to intake manifold...
Get a 10/24 threaded eyelet and a couple nuts, once mounted the eyelet will need to extend to the length of 1.5"...
That should get you close to the 5.5" of spring length...
Offset the eyelet hole to align with the throttle cable brackets bent tab...
Of course round your aluminum bracket corners...

 

Nice drawing!
I’ve always made my own solid fuel lines.
You can buy a tubing cutter, tubing bender and flaring tools pretty cheap.
Steel or stainless steel tubing works best and Red Horse Performance has all the nuts, ferrules, and fittings you’ll need.
They might even sell the benders.
They also sell solid aluminum fuel filters .
You just need to get from the pump to the carb.
I go to the extreme but I made this line.

 

I believe thats a 4160…?

 

4160 is one style of carburetor that Holley offers.
If you don’t know for sure you can look it up on their website.
The bigger question is what cfm is it?

 

When you install custom carbs, you have to fabricate a custom fuel line from scratch. You can e-mail me for a paper on how to fabricate a fuel line, along with fuel filter suggestions.

The 1850-3 is a little 600 cfm carb best suited for a 302 or a small-cube V8. It can be made to run OK on a 350, but is certainly not optimal.


Lars

 

I use on my 76 l82 with holley double pumper the hard line from pump to carb for a l88 or lt1..you have to use the pump for a lt1 so the fitting on pump line up with the line going to the y block at carb..it does need to be a factory ncrs pump..i had a machine shop drill,tap the block for the gauge..a new block does not come with


the block tapped..

 

Yes. Email sent. Thanks.

 

Unfortunately, you can't use that line with a single-inlet 4160 carb... you have to fabricate your own line. If you want to make the installation appear "vintage correct," you can use the lines and filter as installed on the 1965 mid-year 327 engines if you also use the 327 fuel pump:







I never liked the long piece of rubber fuel line from the filter to the carb on the '65 fuel system, so if you have to use some rubber hose to attach to the carb's Banjo inlet fitting I would run hard-line all the way to the carb inlet and then use a short 2" piece of hose to hook up. Be sure to use actual fuel line hose or the fuel injection high pressure fuel hose if you end up with a rubber hose section.
Lars

 

Third pedal is the solution.....

 

I saw it was a single feed holley..just wanted to throw it out there..thanks

 

Making your own fuel line is really simple and you can have it ready to install within about an hour.