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Went to do an oil change, noticed that I’ve got no hole to put oil in. Think I can fill it down the dip stick or one of the other hosed lines going into the valve covers, or do I just suck it up and spend money on new valve covers? Gotta swap the gasket anyways since it leaks as the idiot who put it on didn’t torque it or use spacers on all of the bolts, only some of them. I guess I could pull them off too but that seems excessive every time I want to change the oil lol. It’s a 1978, L48 if it matters…
Just don't pour it in too fast. The drain holes at either end of the heads aren't all that big. If your valve seals are in good shape, it's no big deal. If they are worn, you might get some oil smoke at start up after an oil fill.
When you change out the leaking gasket, invest in a better set of valve covers with a specific fill hole.
Those cheap chrome stamped valve covers will always provide you with some small leakage.
I like aluminum valve covers because the lips are much thicker and don’t deform when you torque the valve cover bolts.
I did like all those comments from my fellow comedian forum members.
If and when you buy a new set of Valve Covers be sure to get one with a oil fill hole and some good baffles under the cover. I have had some experience with un-baffled valve covers and they can get messy. I now only use the baffled ones that have an oil fill hole on at least one of them.
The thicker flanges can seal better than the stamped steel valve covers. There are a lot of choices for a small block engine. If you had to buy valve covers for a big block then the choices are fewer and they cost more (BB Tax). My 427 came with chrome valve covers and I have had to replace them because of the chrome pitting on them. I had a notion to powder coat the valve covers but don't want to add insulation inhibit the heat from getting out of the valve covers. When using chrome plated valve covers on my C3 I have to wax the valve covers once a year and polish them.
When you change out the leaking gasket, invest in a better set of valve covers with a specific fill hole.
Those cheap chrome stamped valve covers will always provide you with some small leakage.
I like aluminum valve covers because the lips are much thicker and don’t deform when you torque the valve cover bolts.
I did like all those comments from my fellow comedian forum members.
Originally Posted by ctmccloskey
I agree with OldCarBum!
If and when you buy a new set of Valve Covers be sure to get one with a oil fill hole and some good baffles under the cover. I have had some experience with un-baffled valve covers and they can get messy. I now only use the baffled ones that have an oil fill hole on at least one of them.
The thicker flanges can seal better than the stamped steel valve covers. There are a lot of choices for a small block engine. If you had to buy valve covers for a big block then the choices are fewer and they cost more (BB Tax). My 427 came with chrome valve covers and I have had to replace them because of the chrome pitting on them. I had a notion to powder coat the valve covers but don't want to add insulation inhibit the heat from getting out of the valve covers. When using chrome plated valve covers on my C3 I have to wax the valve covers once a year and polish them.
Awesome, thanks for the advice guys, I’ll look into a set of aluminum ones. Currently both sides seem to be leaking because the previous owner seems to have put some of the bolts on without the spacers. Figure I mays as well just swap them since I gotta do it anyways. Buy once cry once one right? Lol…
Sbc’s are prone to having leaks at the valve covers.
Some of the issues come from the poor mating surface on the head, people over torquing the bolts, bolt pattern design, and the use of cheap valve covers and cheap gaskets.
When you do replace the valve covers, use a good set of gaskets and don’t over torque the bolts.
GM use 'load spreaders' under the bolts on stamped steel valve covers. These virtually eliminated the infamous "bolt hole dimpling" effect. I think you can still buy them at auto parts stores and on-line. For those with stamped valve covers, it would be wise to use them, if you are having leakage problems.
I had a notion to powder coat the valve covers but don't want to add insulation inhibit the heat from getting out of the valve.
There’s so much heat trapped under the hood of a BBC C3 I can’t imagine powder coating as an issue. The valve covers are 180 degrees, the block is 200, the exhaust manifolds are 400 and the air is 210!
You are probably insulating the valve train, not trapping heat! 😂
Valve springs themselves generate a great deal of heat. The more they're worked, the more heat they emanate.
So much heat, that some motors require pressurized oil squirters to help cool them.
Perhaps some later model GM hi-po serial production motors have OE VS oil squirters; as well as piston squirters ?
Last edited by Rebelyell; Jul 10, 2025 at 09:30 PM.
Oil woes…
