C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Jul 15, 2025 | 09:18 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 75guy76vette
I also check ohms at the pick up coil. It should be between 500 and 1500 ohms. Mine was at 0 ohms.
Tonight i removed the distributer to remove the pick up coil. Tomorow a new pick-up's going in.
When inspecting OR testing OR replacing pick-up coil:
Pay close attention to Both condition and positioning of its two fine gage wires.
As the vacuum advance articulates the pick-up coil, that coil rotates-moves a few degrees around the shaft. As it does so, those two wires Flex.
That deflection can (and has) caused problems. It can weaken and break the thin conductors And (if wires are positioned too close to dist housing) can rub through the wires' insulation and ground out and kill the pick-up coil.
*whenever R&R dist gear:
First, BEFORE beginning to R&R dist gear, pay close attention to the small dimple aka divot that's near the roll pin but on Only one side of gear. Note that gear has 13 teeth and is an uneven number (which affects positioning of gear on shaft and it's "phasing" with Rotor. Before you drive the roll pin thru gear-shaft, that dimple should be positioned in line with the Rotor's Tip. If your gear has no dimple, suggest you mark gear so it will be aligned-indexed in same manner as you found it.
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Old Jul 16, 2025 | 12:08 PM
  #22  
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still no spark. im gona change the rotor and the carbon button tomorrow.
Primary coil 0.06 ohms
secondary 982
ignition coil 817
Everything is in range according to my book.
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Old Jul 16, 2025 | 01:56 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 75guy76vette
still no spark. im gona change the rotor and the carbon button tomorrow.
Primary coil 0.06 ohms
secondary 982
ignition coil 817
Everything is in range according to my book.
With the distributor cap removed crank the engine for a couple of seconds, does the rotor move?
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Old Jul 16, 2025 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
With the distributor cap removed crank the engine for a couple of seconds, does the rotor move?
Yes it move. To make sure i check the compression and im about 132 psi. I put it on top dead center on the compression stroke and slide the timer back.
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Old Jul 16, 2025 | 02:43 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 75guy76vette
still no spark. im gona change the rotor and the carbon button tomorrow.
Primary coil 0.06 ohms
secondary 982
ignition coil 817
Everything is in range according to my book.
At this stage have you swapped All Three: IgnCModule, IgnCoil, and Pick-upCoil?
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Old Jul 16, 2025 | 04:43 PM
  #26  
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75 Guy,

Wouldn't that be something, if after all your parts chasing and parts swapping, and all your OHM testing, and labor,
it was the simple but often forgotten bushing spring in the cap?

By the way. They come in Low Resistance and High Resistance.
I believe you want the Low, to avoid heat buildup under the coil.
Usually comes with new rubber insulator washer too.
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Old Jul 23, 2025 | 10:01 AM
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I just change it 20 min ago with the rotor.

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Old Jul 23, 2025 | 10:02 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Rebelyell
At this stage have you swapped All Three: IgnCModule, IgnCoil, and Pick-upCoil?
the only thing i didnt change is my pick-up coil but my ohms meter reading is in the range.
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Old Jul 23, 2025 | 03:56 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 75guy76vette
I also check ohms at the pick up coil. It should be between 500 and 1500 ohms. Mine was at 0 ohms.
Tonight i removed the distributer to remove the pick up coil. Tomorow a new pick-up's going in.
Originally Posted by 75guy76vette
the only thing i didnt change is my pick-up coil but my ohms meter reading is in the range.
1. At first, you write pickup tests Zero ohms and you write it should be between 500-1500 ohms.

2. Next, you write you do not R&R pickup because ohms ARE within range (500-1500).

Maybe I do Not understand You; I am confused by your above apparently conflicting Two statements.

Maybe the wires on pickup are BAD because they have an Intermittent Open Short.

Previously, I had suggested you replace all three in unison; didn't happen.

I KNOW it's work, but suggest you R&R pickup coil and suggest you test ohms Both BEFORE And AFTER install.
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Old Jul 23, 2025 | 04:31 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Rebelyell
1. At first, you write pickup tests Zero ohms and you write it should be between 500-1500 ohms.

2. Next, you write you do not R&R pickup because ohms ARE within range (500-1500).

Maybe I do Not understand You; I am confused by your above apparently conflicting Two statements.

Maybe the wires on pickup are BAD because they have an Intermittent Open Short.

Previously, I had suggested you replace all three in unison; didn't happen.

I KNOW it's work, but suggest you R&R pickup coil and suggest you test ohms Both BEFORE And AFTER install.
my multimeter was not set a the good set up. Sorry for that confusion. But i suspect a bad ignition module. Im gona buy the DUI one
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Old Jul 24, 2025 | 02:26 PM
  #31  
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Fellas.....
Normally I hang down at p&c.
But I'll give this poor HEI a try.

Nothing more frustrating that intermittent troubles.
Only time I have IRS problems....is on april 15th.

The thing about those module brands,
If you buy an expensive one, peel the sticker off it....and it just became any brand that will sell on another name.
You get the idea. Marketing.

That's good advice to keep one in the glove box.

Back to the dist inlet voltage source.
Make a jump wire from the battery pos term and slip the other end on the HEI plus term.
Absolute power now, just like a gang banger is stealing your car.

If everything works , guess you have to look down at the starter for wires intermittent.

Back to politics and controversy . can't miss any action down there ya know.


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Old Jul 26, 2025 | 10:49 PM
  #32  
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Boy...did I kill this thread or what.
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Old Jul 26, 2025 | 10:57 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by ramair_bryan
Fellas.....
Normally I hang down at p&c.
But I'll give this poor HEI a try.

Nothing more frustrating that intermittent troubles.
Only time I have IRS problems....is on april 15th.

The thing about those module brands,
If you buy an expensive one, peel the sticker off it....and it just became any brand that will sell on another name.
You get the idea. Marketing.

That's good advice to keep one in the glove box.

Back to the dist inlet voltage source.
Make a jump wire from the battery pos term and slip the other end on the HEI plus term.
Absolute power now, just like a gang banger is stealing your car.

If everything works , guess you have to look down at the starter for wires intermittent.

Back to politics and controversy . can't miss any action down there ya know.
So, if so inclined; where-how does one find P&C ?
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